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Ok so I have a 4L60E apart, cleaned, and ready to be rebuilt here are some concerns that I have.
1st, the input drum.
I have checked for leakage around the shaft and with transmission fluid and air in the 3/4 clutch feed hole and did not see any leaks. Should I put the drum in the oven at say 150F for and hour and check again? And if it doesn’t leak call it good or just call it good without heating it.
2nd, the input drum TCC Check ball.
if I pour fluid in the center of shaft it comes out of the hole in the side. If I apply air to the top of the shaft it doesn’t stop the air completely is this ok.
3rd, Clutch’s I see some people install dry clutch’s is this ok to do because I can imagine this would make a much cleaner work environment.
#1-You can. But if you have access to a press, I would just press it out and use some shaft sealing/locking compound (loctite). I press every one that comes through the door just for security
#2-yes. it's fine if it leaks. It's only purpose is to slow the exhaust of tcc release fluid. Thereby slowing the apply of the lockup clutch. Old shade tree (maybe not so shade tree) mod is to just remove that capsule. Makes for a more firm lockup feel
#3-I always soak. Is it needed...maybe not. But I know it's not going to hurt. And if it ever sits for any extended period of time before getting installed, you'll be glad they were soaked. If you're worried about clean work environment, get another box of rags
just press. Make sure you support the drum properly when pressing. Look up sonnax reinforcement sleeve instructions and take their advice on how to support the drum
Ok pressed the shaft out yesterday ( used and old stator for support it was in there good ) cleaned it up good and will be putting Loctite on and pressing back in tonight but in the mean time thought I would post some pictures of the Process
Ok so first attempt at pressing the shaft back in did not go well at all. I thought I would do the right thing and follow the manufactures instructions on the Loctite which said clean the surfaces with surface prep ( I’ve never did this before but figured it would be best ) then I applied Loctite to both the drum and shaft in the splines and the flat surface where the feed holes was. Well let me tell you the surface prep was a bad idea. It is designed to speed up the curing process it literally started curing while I was wiping it around the shaft. So cleaned it all off repeated with just the Loctite. Well I think I used to much I put all the way down the splines and all around the shaft and this time I could not get the shaft pressed all the way down to line my holes up. So pressed back out and trust me in the 5 minutes the shaft was in there it was tight. This time I put Loctite about 1/4 inch up each spline then around the flat surface and it pressed in great. I will leak check it tomorrow. But wow never had such luck with Loctite. Do you guys think it’s ok the way I have it now.
Last edited by markhodges78; May 18, 2019 at 07:51 PM.
the smooth surface is the only place it is really needed for helping seal the feed holes.
adding loctite to the splines helps to keep it from ever moving again. How you have it is likely fine
the smooth surface is the only place it is really needed for helping seal the feed holes.
adding loctite to the splines helps to keep it from ever moving again. How you have it is likely fine
OK finally got to work on the transmission again and I have another dilemma.. I set the pump into the case and grabbed the input shaft and pulled up to check the end play and the the shaft did not come up at all so I pulled it back out to make sure everything was right and I didn't find anything out of place. So i checked the selective washer and its a 67 which shows to be the thinnest one available and even it shows signs of wear.. One thing that I did do in this rebuild was use a sun shell with the 4 holes in it but I used the original input ring gear and original bearing instead of using the 4 tab washer which should be OK.. Is there anything I can do to increase the end play..
60e's almost always suffer from loose endplay not tight.
Check again...make sure you have ALL 3/4 clutches engaged. If you leave one hung up you'll have this issues
60e's almost always suffer from loose endplay not tight.
Check again...make sure you have ALL 3/4 clutches engaged. If you leave one hung up you'll have this issues
Yes that has been my findings in the past as well but this one has been fighting me with everything. The input drum is dropping down away from the reverse drum and when I pulled it back out to check it all the clutch’s seem to be lined up but I will check again. It already has the the thinest selective washer and even that looks as if there has been some rubbing going on
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4L60E Rebuild ?’s 
