4l80e Rebuilt and Swapped. Not working correctly help
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Teching In
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4l80e Rebuilt and Swapped. Not working correctly help Hey guys,
Its been a long road and I'm almost done I hope. I rebuilt a 2006 4l80e with a Jake's performance stage 2 kit. I did all the mods except I left out the accumulator block off plate.
I swapped the white and brown wires around in the plug and added the speed sensor. Black bear did my segment swap.
Here is what my transmission is doing
Park is fine.
Reverse engages but just lets rev up rpms without moving the truck faster.
Drive works but also just lets me rev up rpms without moving truck barely at all.
1-2-3 shift and move the truck correctly.
I jacked up my rear tires and tried reverse and drive again. I can go WOT and the truck speeds up like it should and my MPH go up accordingly.
Line Pressure test revealed some pretty low pressure.
Park is 60 psi
Reverse is 80 psi
Neutral is 80 psi
Drive is 60 psi
1-3 are 60 psi
If throttle is applied in any gear. pressure will jump to 110 or more.
Harness unplugged 190 psi in park
Reverse is Erratic. 150 minimum - 220 max. Mainly 180
Jacks stage 2 has the dual feed mod, rollerized output shaft and foward hub. omitted 4 check *****. Did not install the accumulator BLOCK OFF plate.
I'm currently reaching out to Jakes for any help, but I dont really know where to start right now.
Anyone got any idea?
Its been a long road and I'm almost done I hope. I rebuilt a 2006 4l80e with a Jake's performance stage 2 kit. I did all the mods except I left out the accumulator block off plate.
I swapped the white and brown wires around in the plug and added the speed sensor. Black bear did my segment swap.
Here is what my transmission is doing
Park is fine.
Reverse engages but just lets rev up rpms without moving the truck faster.
Drive works but also just lets me rev up rpms without moving truck barely at all.
1-2-3 shift and move the truck correctly.
I jacked up my rear tires and tried reverse and drive again. I can go WOT and the truck speeds up like it should and my MPH go up accordingly.
Line Pressure test revealed some pretty low pressure.
Park is 60 psi
Reverse is 80 psi
Neutral is 80 psi
Drive is 60 psi
1-3 are 60 psi
If throttle is applied in any gear. pressure will jump to 110 or more.
Harness unplugged 190 psi in park
Reverse is Erratic. 150 minimum - 220 max. Mainly 180
Jacks stage 2 has the dual feed mod, rollerized output shaft and foward hub. omitted 4 check *****. Did not install the accumulator BLOCK OFF plate.
I'm currently reaching out to Jakes for any help, but I dont really know where to start right now.
Anyone got any idea?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
@Jake's Performance would obviously be the key resource here
But it sounds like an issue with the overrun roller clutch
1-2-3 will apply the overruns and do the job of the roller clutch, making the issue go away
Also...those pressures seem fine.
They are normal for idle
Footbrake at 1500rpm you'll likely see 170+
But it sounds like an issue with the overrun roller clutch
1-2-3 will apply the overruns and do the job of the roller clutch, making the issue go away
Also...those pressures seem fine.
They are normal for idle
Footbrake at 1500rpm you'll likely see 170+
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 8
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I just read the instructions again and did see something wrong. I left accumulators functional and made changes to checkball orifice sizing. The last page tells you to only use 4 checkballs and thats what I did. However this part of the instructions says I should have maintained all check ball positions .
For
stock or towing applications, leave
all accumulators functional,
maintaining all the stock checkball
positions, making only small
changes to the orifice sizing.
For
stock or towing applications, leave
all accumulators functional,
maintaining all the stock checkball
positions, making only small
changes to the orifice sizing.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
No, sorry...
I was referring to: Adding another modification in the pump, so that line pressure in reverse does not get to high.
180 Psi in reverse is fine. However I have seen worn units with 500+ Psi in reverse.
So I modify the pump, because in most situations reverse does not really need high pressures.
I didn't make a suggestion in regards to solving your issue.
I would need one of Jake's valve-bodies and instructions to do so.
I am sure Jake will chime in, once he sees this.
He is very good about service for his transmissions.
I was referring to: Adding another modification in the pump, so that line pressure in reverse does not get to high.
180 Psi in reverse is fine. However I have seen worn units with 500+ Psi in reverse.
So I modify the pump, because in most situations reverse does not really need high pressures.
I didn't make a suggestion in regards to solving your issue.
I would need one of Jake's valve-bodies and instructions to do so.
I am sure Jake will chime in, once he sees this.
He is very good about service for his transmissions.
Last edited by vorteciroc; Feb 18, 2020 at 07:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Ok, I added the check ***** back in and my line pressure jumped up 30psi give or take in every gear.
Problem stayed the same though. No power in reverse or drive. Barely moves the truck forward but something’s not engaging in the transmission.
I swapped in another torque converter tonight and the problem stayed the same.
transmission is coming out. I’m going to check that OD sprag, any other suggestions?
this was a 4l60e - 4l80e swap in a 4wd.
i had to tear apart the transfer case and replace the input shaft. Is it possible something isn’t working right in the transfer case?
Problem stayed the same though. No power in reverse or drive. Barely moves the truck forward but something’s not engaging in the transmission.
I swapped in another torque converter tonight and the problem stayed the same.
transmission is coming out. I’m going to check that OD sprag, any other suggestions?
this was a 4l60e - 4l80e swap in a 4wd.
i had to tear apart the transfer case and replace the input shaft. Is it possible something isn’t working right in the transfer case?
Last edited by William Horne; Feb 21, 2020 at 09:09 PM.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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That sprag isn't working correctly. I could turn clockwise and counterclockwise. I put the old one back in and it does work correctly. Could this truly be my only problem?
With the turbine shaft installed through the overdrive drum and all snap rings on, I can pull the drum up and it will disengage from a clutch patch maybe even 2. It was way to much up and down play.
With the turbine shaft installed through the overdrive drum and all snap rings on, I can pull the drum up and it will disengage from a clutch patch maybe even 2. It was way to much up and down play.
Last edited by William Horne; Feb 22, 2020 at 02:12 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
@Jake's Performance would obviously be the key resource here
But it sounds like an issue with the overrun roller clutch
1-2-3 will apply the overruns and do the job of the roller clutch, making the issue go away
Also...those pressures seem fine.
They are normal for idle
Footbrake at 1500rpm you'll likely see 170+
But it sounds like an issue with the overrun roller clutch
1-2-3 will apply the overruns and do the job of the roller clutch, making the issue go away
Also...those pressures seem fine.
They are normal for idle
Footbrake at 1500rpm you'll likely see 170+
Originally Posted by William Horne;20213498[color=#c0392b
]That sprag isn't working correctly. I could turn clockwise and counterclockwise[/color]. I put the old one back in and it does work correctly. Could this truly be my only problem?
With the turbine shaft installed through the overdrive drum and all snap rings on, I can pull the drum up and it will disengage from a clutch patch maybe even 2. It was way to much up and down play.
With the turbine shaft installed through the overdrive drum and all snap rings on, I can pull the drum up and it will disengage from a clutch patch maybe even 2. It was way to much up and down play.
The overrun drum will float when it's out on the bench...put it in the trans and its float will be controlled by the pump and the pump thrust washer.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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I'll throw it back in next day or two and updated y'all with what happens. I appreciate help and advice. I would have probably looked right over the sprag and not noticed it was damaged because it was minor.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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I mean the damage to the sprag was minor. Almost like a defect on one of the rollers. Just one roller wasn't sliding back and forth correctly. I cant remember if I tested it while building so can't say for sure.
Without your help I wouldn't have examined it with such detail and noticed it was damaged. Very thankful for your help.
Without your help I wouldn't have examined it with such detail and noticed it was damaged. Very thankful for your help.
Sprag is critical. The later model blue type can get stuck easily when installing. They need to be checked for operation.
I've also seen them installed upside down or too deep onto the OR housing
I've also seen them installed upside down or too deep onto the OR housing
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
It is amazing when the power-flow is able to work properly by:
-Turning the turbine-shaft...
-With the over-drive planet and the over-run drum all turning together, thanks to a WORKING over-drive one-way roller clutch...
-Turning the forward drum and so on and so forth all the way through the output-shaft as needed per gear range.
-Turning the turbine-shaft...
-With the over-drive planet and the over-run drum all turning together, thanks to a WORKING over-drive one-way roller clutch...
-Turning the forward drum and so on and so forth all the way through the output-shaft as needed per gear range.