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How involved is replacing that 3-4 clutch? Any recommendations on what products to look at?
On a recently rebuilt trans, replacing the 3/4 clutch would be relatively straight forward as once the pump is removed, the input drum with the clutch pulls right out. However with a 22 year old trans, even if modest miles, it is likely that various teflon seals will tear when removing the pump and it is then a slippery slope that might justify a complete overhaul and perhaps upgrades. Same with installing the hi-rev pump parts.
All the 20+ year old 4L60E that I have encountered had high miles and needed a complete rebuild. Perhaps other more experienced members and pros can tell you how likely your 48K trans will come apart without needed a major overhaul.
What are the main reasons for relocating it? Any recommendations on a brand or type?
Do they have rubber/poly versions ect? Also, I have long tube .
. I gave my opinion based on your question..... But it's cool, maybe my answer would have been better if this thread was in , "chassis and suspension" so either way no big deal. Happy wrenching sir..
I don’t understand why people take it personal when the op does not take their advice. The people giving the advice do not know the op’s situation. Things like skill level, time and the big one money weigh in on the path that the op takes. If a person only has basic skills they may not feel comfortable taking a trans apart to do mods on a pump or 3-4 clutch pack. This doesn’t mean that the op didn’t appreciate the advice it just means that the advice did not fit the op’s situation.
This person said it best. Im taking all options into consideration and then I can just go from there. I havent stated anywhere that I WASNT going to do something that someone suggested. Except maybe the torque arm right away. I dont see the big deal. It will be done, but it may not be done right away. I have enjoyed all of the suggestions. I will weigh my options and budget and go from there.
While you're in there you might as well add a new flexplate if you take it off to do the rear main seal and cover. This one is SFI certified and very budget friendly: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet I ran it in the past and it'll be fine for your setup.
Can also install a SacCity oil barbell if the rear cover is coming off and get a deeper factory truck trans pan with a drain plug.
I don't care if people take my advice.
I'm just not on the list of mrvedits favorites that get overly praised.
Nothing was suggested that maybe I can explain how to do the mods I mentioned. Instead have one of his favorites chime in. So let's hear it.
Mrvedit doesn't maintain a list of "favorites" or anything like that. In fact, he's just gotten active on the forum again after being mostly off for a couple of years or so.
This is the best 4Lxxx trans forum on the web. We have a lot of seasoned pros on board who offer invaluable advice and guidance.They may tend to stand out because of their experience and competence. But everybody's input is welcome and will be considered in fair and dispassionate way.
I've been reading this forum for 17 years and am still learning. So let's keep it to the tech rather than personalities, and we will all benefit.
I don't care if people take my advice.
I'm just not on the list of mrvedits favorites that get overly praised.
Nothing was suggested that maybe I can explain how to do the mods I mentioned. Instead have one of his favorites chime in.
So let's hear it.
Knowing Mrvedit, I don't think his comment about “Perhaps other more experienced members and pros can tell you how likely your 48K trans will come apart without needed a major overhaul.” was directed at you. He was asking for someone with more experience to check his statement. I have never seen a post from Mrvedit that has ever intentionally discredited anyone’s ideas. If you go back and look at some of his old post you will see that he often asks for anyone with experience to correct him if he has made a false statement. I really think you took his post the wrong way.
This person said it best. Im taking all options into consideration and then I can just go from there. I havent stated anywhere that I WASNT going to do something that someone suggested. Except maybe the torque arm right away. I dont see the big deal. It will be done, but it may not be done right away. I have enjoyed all of the suggestions. I will weigh my options and budget and go from there.
In the end it’s your car and your money. So weigh the options and go in the direction you feel is best.
I will say Mrvedit is very knowledgeable and I have enjoyed discussions with him on 4l60s whether it be reading or participating.
Tyler: I'm sorry that your perfectly reasonable thread went off the rails. I have deleted most of the posts that were not related to your question, leaving only a few crumbs of the "off-roading" in place for those who had watched with curiosity as we swerved into a muddy marsh. I PM'ed everyone posting here about the details.
So, how can we help you?
One thing I'm going go add is an Aeroforce Interceptor to track the trans temp, among other things. Anyone with recent experience on one?
I have one. It works great. Looks great. Keep in mind where the obd2 temp sensor for the 4l60 is actually 10-15 degrees cooler than the fluid going to your cooler.
I have one. It works great. Looks great. Keep in mind where the obd2 temp sensor for the 4l60 is actually 10-15 degrees cooler than the fluid going to your cooler.
I did read that somewhere. I'll take 10 degrees off as long as I know it is ahead of time. Which that will be the case. So no worries there. Where did you mount yours?
The OEM transmission/ ATF temperature is measured from the fluid in the oil pan.
Early 4L60E units have a Thermistor (temperature based variable resistor) in/ as part of the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Manifold Assembly.
Shown here (as the temperature-sensor):
and here:
Later model 4l60E units have a separate Thermistor wired into the internal transmission harness.
Similar to how 4L80E transmissions have their Thermistor included.
Shown here (grey plastic part next to the red, green and yellow wires.):
I did read that somewhere. I'll take 10 degrees off as long as I know it is ahead of time. Which that will be the case. So no worries there. Where did you mount yours?
The OEM transmission/ ATF temperature is measured from the fluid in the oil pan.
Early 4L60E units have a Thermistor (temperature based variable resistor) in/ as part of the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Manifold Assembly.
Shown here (as the temperature-sensor):
and here:
Later model 4l60E units have a separate Thermistor wired into the internal transmission harness.
Similar to how 4L80E transmissions have their Thermistor included.
Shown here (grey plastic part next to the red, green and yellow wires.):
I have had a sensor tapped into my cooler line in the past, as well as just used the USB port with the Aeroforce gauge. I never used both simultaneously. Which method do you feel is the most accurate way of monitoring temperature?
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