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I have a 1998 Z28 Camaro with 48K. I'm going to be installing my PTC 3600 stall in about a month or so. This is the list of items I have compiled to purchase. Some are just getting replaced because "while im in there I may as well" type items.
Trans pan gasket
12 quarts ATF dex3
Trans filter
New stock rubber mount
Front pump seal
2 U-Joints
Tail shaft seal
trans cooler
Anything I'm missing here? What about anything I should upgrade or beef up when the trans is out?
Last edited by Tyler Dietzenbach; Apr 19, 2020 at 06:54 PM.
You mention a trans cooler; so what are you using for cooler line?
While the trans and converter hold 12 quarts total, you likely won't get more than 8 quarts out after dropping the pan and removing the converter.
Pour a quart of ATF into the converter before you install it. That gives it some lubrication during the startup process.
After reassembly my suggestion is with engine off and cold, add ATF until it reads about 1" above the Hot-Full mark. That should be enough to safely start the engine and pump fluid through the trans. Keep checking the level as the engine and trans warm up. It will likely take another quart or so. Then take an easy drive around the block and check the fluid again; likely take one more quart.
It's good to get torq arm mount off the tail shaft housing. Some have broke. By locating off it putts it in a much sturdier location, and makes the car more planted (hooks better). I used umi 2208 relocation and 2205tq arm, both have been great. This pic is with my exaust. Tsp 1 7/8 headers and SE duals dumped.
Thanks for the tips everyone. I'll be using whatever lines that came with my B&M Supercooler. I'll have to research torque arms and learn about them and what options are available. Seems like it might be worth it. Is it worth changing anything in the trans itself ? Assuming not. Also, thanks for the tip about filling an inch above ect.
I'd look at doing the rear cover seal and rear main as others have said. The dumbbell can be changed too if you want. The rest of the list looks good. Good luck with install
I'd look at doing the rear cover seal and rear main as others have said. The dumbbell can be changed too if you want. The rest of the list looks good. Good luck with install
Never Once did I know if that piece's existence. Ran across this:
What are the main reasons for relocating it? Any recommendations on a brand or type?
Do they have rubber/poly versions ect? Also, I have long tube .
I used a bmr torque arm and relocation crossmember. Bushing on the cross member for the torque arm is poly. I have Kooks long tubes and duals and it fits fine.
As mentioned earlier relocation of the torque arm helps with traction and can also give you adjustability to get that traction.
Is all this going into a stock 4l60? If so understand it will be on a shortened life cycle with a stall. Make sure your cooler is good enough for the job.
I used a bmr torque arm and relocation crossmember. Bushing on the cross member for the torque arm is poly. I have Kooks long tubes and duals and it fits fine.
As mentioned earlier relocation of the torque arm helps with traction and can also give you adjustability to get that traction.
Is all this going into a stock 4l60? If so understand it will be on a shortened life cycle with a stall. Make sure your cooler is good enough for the job.
Question about the torque arm. How much vibe and noise get transmitted into the cabin?
Yes, the cooler is a really nice piece from B&M and was highly recommended. I do understand that the life will be shortened. I'll be doing everything I can to make it last longer. Which is part of the reason for starting this thread. I wasnt sure if there was anything I could replace while I was in there, without tearing it all down for a rebuild (no thanks and it works fine) I take really good care of my stuff and the car is mostly a highway cruiser so that should help some.
Question about the torque arm. How much vibe and noise get transmitted into the cabin?
Yes, the cooler is a really nice piece from B&M and was highly recommended. I do understand that the life will be shortened. I'll be doing everything I can to make it last longer. Which is part of the reason for starting this thread. I wasnt sure if there was anything I could replace while I was in there, without tearing it all down for a rebuild (no thanks and it works fine) I take really good care of my stuff and the car is mostly a highway cruiser so that should help some.
If you keep the heat down a higher stall will not shorten the life of the transmission and will actually be easier on it.
At 48k miles I'd remove the old one and put the new one in. Done. Install a cooler.
A torque arm can be done later.
I have an SS with 50k and I converted that to a six speed for 20k miles then back to the A4. Never changed any seals or anything. Nothing leaks.
If you've got money burning a hole in your pocket put a hi rev pump kit in it and upgrade the 3-4 clutch. Or something else actually useful that can only be done with the trans out.
At 48k miles I'd remove the old one and put the new one in. Done. Install a cooler.
A torque arm can be done later.
I have an SS with 50k and I converted that to a six speed for 20k miles then back to the A4. Never changed any seals or anything. Nothing leaks.
If you've got money burning a hole in your pocket put a hi rev pump kit in it and upgrade the 3-4 clutch. Or something else actually useful that can only be done with the trans out.
Ah so you're sticking with "if it's not broke dont fix it". I respect that. And that MAY still happen I'm not sure yet. I'm not loaded with money. I don't know a lot about hi rev pumps (assume for higher RPM motors? Idk)...or what it takes to replace a 3-4 clutch.
I don't know a lot about hi rev pumps (assume for higher RPM motors? Idk)...or what it takes to replace a 3-4 clutch.
Ok this is how I see it. A under $20 transgo hi rev pump kit keeps line pressure from dropping or becoming unstable at high rpm (over 5500). You're putting a high (rpm) converter in it.
Whats the most common failure in a 4th gen f body? 3-4 clutches or broken torque arm? What can be done later and what needs to be done with the transmission out?
You did ask if there anything you should do when the transmission is out, I have no idea what that has to do with a torque arm. You don't need to take the torque arm all the way out to change the converter, and you don't have to take the transmission out at all to change the torque arm.
A torque arm damn sure won't break if you're staying under 5500 rpm, and/or your 3-4 clutch takes a dump.
Ok this is how I see it. A under $20 transgo hi rev pump kit keeps line pressure from dropping or becoming unstable at high rpm (over 5500). You're putting a high (rpm) converter in it.
Whats the most common failure in a 4th gen f body? 3-4 clutches or broken torque arm? What can be done later and what needs to be done with the transmission out?
You did ask if there anything you should do when the transmission is out, I have no idea what that has to do with a torque arm. You don't need to take the torque arm all the way out to change the converter, and you don't have to take the transmission out at all to change the torque arm.
A torque arm damn sure won't break if you're staying under 5500 rpm, and/or your 3-4 clutch takes a dump.
Do what you will. It was only a suggestion.
Oh I dont disagree with your thought process at all. Im pretty open minded. I've learned a lot about cars through this Camaro but I'm not an expert on mechanicals. I didn't bring the torque arm up. Its staying stock for now because like you said, I can change it anytime.
Ok this is how I see it. A under $20 transgo hi rev pump kit keeps line pressure from dropping or becoming unstable at high rpm (over 5500). You're putting a high (rpm) converter in it.
Whats the most common failure in a 4th gen f body? 3-4 clutches or broken torque arm? What can be done later and what needs to be done with the transmission out?
You did ask if there anything you should do when the transmission is out, I have no idea what that has to do with a torque arm. You don't need to take the torque arm all the way out to change the converter, and you don't have to take the transmission out at all to change the torque arm.
A torque arm damn sure won't break if you're staying under 5500 rpm, and/or your 3-4 clutch takes a dump.
Do what you will. It was only a suggestion.
How involved is replacing that 3-4 clutch? Any recommendations on what products to look at?
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Stall converter install 
