Stalls in reverse.
Where would you start?
1st gear 3.06
Reverse 2.29
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Like you said, big cams make this worse. I have had cold-stalling problems with various cams in the 239/251 range, with and without MAF, different intakes, different TBs, DBW and DBC, 411 PCM, Dominator ECM and more.
Since O2 sensors tend to read leaner that it really is with big cams, I do find that an "apparent" lean idle reduces stalling.
OP: What are your cam specs and other engine mods?
OP says it was tuned for the FTI converter. Did it work properly after the tune and before the problem with the first FTI converter?
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cam is a ws6 hotcam . 218/226(?) .600/.600.
i think the tune is not anything useful the more I think about it. Since it wasn’t locking up I think the tune was done wrong due to the computer doing things it shouldn’t (boosting line psi to compensate for seeing slippage). I will talk to my tuner about a retune
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Verify that the tuner has set a very modest and identical amount of ignition advance between 400 and 1000 rpm at the cylinder airmass where the engine idles. I've seen plenty of tunes where the ignition advance increases from 400 RPM on. But then as the engine begins to stall, ignition advance goes down which slows the engine even more; this negative feedback then leads to a stall. Also by having a modest amount of ignition advance (e.g. 10 degrees) the "Underspeed" advance adjustment can increase the engine speed to reduce the chance of a stall.
The "High Octane", and under Idle Spark Advance the "In Drive" and "In Park" tables all need to be in agreement.








