When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm building a stroker 6.0 (396ci.) For my 99 T/A ,auto. Still running the 3.23 gears. The cam is ticks SNS LS2 stage 2 .
231/235 .625/.605 . Tick website shows 2-6000 rpm range and suggests a 3500+ stall.
I don't know a whole lot about stall speed vs gear .. car weight is a factor as well. car will see more street then track. I thought about getting a 3200-3500 converter .
I did some research and one concern could be freeway speed with high (numeric lower) gearing and high stall speed causing possible slipping keeping it from lock up. Plan on doing a 12bolt in the far future so I don't want to install gears and since I'll have the motor out I figured I'd put a converter in now but concernit might burn it up?..So I'm not sure what to do.
A high stall converter ( 3500 is not considered high stall) will lock-up on the freeway, providing the converter is lock-up style.
Burning it up, lets call it overheating, when it's locked there is no slippage and heat generation.
Cheaper/ less expensive converters have more slippage that more expensive converters, don't buy cheap.
Sounds like you would want something like a Yank SS3600-SS4000. for that cam.
The 3.23s' are a good gear with a converter, 3.73s' seem like the most popular 'go to'.
I don't see a problem with the stock rear with what your doing,
Which model transmission are you using?
Are you using a OEM type of PCM to control the transmission/ lock-up function?
What is the vehicle weight?
What are the camshaft "lobe separation angle" and "installed intake center line"?
With out these two pieces of information... we can not decipher where/ when the engine valve-events take place.
What size rear tires are you using?
Have you tried calling the automatic transmission/ torque-converter company that sponsors this Forum?
FTI Performance is the sponsor here.
They are great people with great products.
They are highly supportive here and highly active here on the forum.
Call 866-726-8358 and ask for Dalton.
You can also send Dalton a private message on this website. Member: FTICONVERTERS
Website: FTIPerformance.com
3.23 is a good gear. Get the converter and don’t look back my friend it will be just fine.
It may not be optimized for the cam etc, but down the line you can change the gearing in your 12-bolt like you mentioned.
Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
A high stall converter ( 3500 is not considered high stall) will lock-up on the freeway, providing the converter is lock-up style.
Burning it up, lets call it overheating, when it's locked there is no slippage and heat generation.
Cheaper/ less expensive converters have more slippage that more expensive converters, don't buy cheap.
Sounds like you would want something like a Yank SS3600-SS4000. for that cam.
The 3.23s' are a good gear with a converter, 3.73s' seem like the most popular 'go to'.
I don't see a problem with the stock rear with what your doing,
Yes and yes.
3.23 will not cause any harm nor burn anything up by preventing lock up. As mentioned above, if it's a lock up converter then it will lock up at highway speeds even if you had 2.73s and a 4000 stall speed (assuming, of course, it's tuned properly and working properly)
3.23 is a fine all-around gear ratio for a street application of the platform and specs outlined by the OP. But stall speed will certainly need to be optimized for that setup to perform well (and this would be true regardless of the gear ratio). Once stall speed is optimized, anything numerically lower than a ~4.10 isn't going to provide much in the way of potential ET improvement over a 3.23, so something like a 3.73 swap would only serve to tighten up part throttle feel. I wouldn't even consider a gear swap if you're planning to upgrade the whole rear anyway. 3.23 will perform well in this application with an optimized stall speed (~3500 should really be considered the minimum IMO, especially for the outlined setup, and definitely higher if max effort ever becomes the goal).
3.23 is a good gear. Get the converter and don’t look back my friend it will be just fine.
It may not be optimized for the cam etc, but down the line you can change the gearing in your 12-bolt like you mentioned.
Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
A high stall converter ( 3500 is not considered high stall) will lock-up on the freeway, providing the converter is lock-up style.
Burning it up, lets call it overheating, when it's locked there is no slippage and heat generation.
Cheaper/ less expensive converters have more slippage that more expensive converters, don't buy cheap.
Sounds like you would want something like a Yank SS3600-SS4000. for that cam.
The 3.23s' are a good gear with a converter, 3.73s' seem like the most popular 'go to'.
I don't see a problem with the stock rear with what your doing,
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
Which model transmission are you using?
Are you using a OEM type of PCM to control the transmission/ lock-up function?
What is the vehicle weight?
What are the camshaft "lobe separation angle" and "installed intake center line"?
With out these two pieces of information... we can not decipher where/ when the engine valve-events take place.
What size rear tires are you using?
Have you tried calling the automatic transmission/ torque-converter company that sponsors this Forum?
FTI Performance is the sponsor here.
They are great people with great products.
They are highly supportive here and highly active here on the forum.
Call 866-726-8358 and ask for Dalton.
You can also send Dalton a private message on this website. Member: FTICONVERTERS
Website: FTIPerformance.com
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Yes and yes.
3.23 will not cause any harm nor burn anything up by preventing lock up. As mentioned above, if it's a lock up converter then it will lock up at highway speeds even if you had 2.73s and a 4000 stall speed (assuming, of course, it's tuned properly and working properly)
3.23 is a fine all-around gear ratio for a street application of the platform and specs outlined by the OP. But stall speed will certainly need to be optimized for that setup to perform well (and this would be true regardless of the gear ratio). Once stall speed is optimized, anything numerically lower than a ~4.10 isn't going to provide much in the way of potential ET improvement over a 3.23, so something like a 3.73 swap would only serve to tighten up part throttle feel. I wouldn't even consider a gear swap if you're planning to upgrade the whole rear anyway. 3.23 will perform well in this application with an optimized stall speed (~3500 should really be considered the minimum IMO, especially for the outlined setup, and definitely higher if max effort ever becomes the goal).
thanks everyone for the input!!
firstyrls1z , by cheap a assume you are referring to brand? I really only have 500 to spend on a convert.
Vorteciroc, I'll look into FTI.. as well as the other info you asked..
RPMWS6,firstyrls1 so 3500 isn't really considered a high stall .. for street? Instead of the 3200-3500 I suggested maybe more like 3500-3800?
Don't fear the stall. Most guys that go under a 3500 regret it sooner rather than later. A 3600 sounds about right, after awhile you might Evan wish you went 4000. 500$ is a tight budget for a stall. If I was you I'd save a little more and get a high quality converter . Don't forget it will generate more heat so you want to get the largest tranny cooler you can fit..
By 'cheap' I wasn't really referring to a brand, but yes I was along with the price. A converter that's sitting on the shelf at an auto parts store or performance store ready to sell is what I consider 'cheap'.
Converters from Yank, CircleD, FTI that are acquired from the converter manufacturer directly I don't consider in the 'cheap' realm. But even those companies have 'budget' converters. You get what you pay for. $700-800 would provide a good one and it would end up less expensive in the long run. Why do it TWICE !
Get a lower cost one and be unhappy with its' performance and then have to buy a better one is throwing away the money for the lower cost one.
When some of the locals to me want a converter but are very hesitant about that high 3500-4000 range, I've given them rides and let them drive it (Yank SS3600 with 3.23s') in city traffic and their fear of high stall changed to no fear at all. Very friendly in street traffic acting like a stock stall until you use the 'happy' pedal.
The following graph also puts things into proper perspective, even though it for a stock engine. WOT will cause the converter to 'flash'/jump to it's stall rating and start climbing from there. Just comparing the 3000 at 175hp to the 3600 at 205hp, that's 30 more hp at WOT 'engagement'.
I would just put in a Yank SS3600 with a quality synthetic Dex VI fluid and not overthink it. A secondary fluid cooler is always a good idea. The #1 transmission killer is heat.
Ive had a cheap crap b and m street fighter converter and a billet FTI. Let’s just say it’s a tough pill to swallow but it’s a pill you can trust to work.
Don't buy a $500 converter. Odds are you won't be happy and will end up replacing it in the future anyway.
Talk to Yank. FTI, Circle D. Get their recommendations for your setup.
I love my SS3600. Near stock operation in normal driving, dramatic improvement in acceleration when you get into it. A comparable model converter with a minimum 3600 rating would be my recommendation.
3.23:1 gear ratio is fine. I wouldn't change the 10 bolt gear set.
I've seen/experienced/been in TCI Breakaway w323s',TCI Streetfighter w373s'.
Both of those, because of 'looseness', took rpm above idle to get the car moving, very obnoxious.
Torque converter lock-up is programmed to not occur at WOT. So even at WOT high speeds,lets say 100mph, severe slippage can occur, generating heat and a sense of loss of power. The better converters will have less slippage high up. And you're not going into the realm of converters that are lock up-able at WOT, expensive specialty items.
Pretty unanimous advice. I will definitely take everyone's suggestions. And save a few more hundred. It is a hard pill to swallow lol but I'm ok with that knowing it's the right way to go.
There is a good hand full of company's that offer converter.. from reading on here yank seems popular. So do all of these companies offer the same features for the same money? Balancing, anti balloon plate, durable clutch for lock up that sort of stuff? Is there a company that offers great features but don't charge cuz the name presa? And is there a company that I should stay clear of?
For the future 'down the road' when it comes to the rear end, you had concerns about spending money on a converter. If the funds for a 12 bolt aren't there in the future, a good replacement would be a take-out from a 1998 A4 Z28. as long as 'channel' matches and ratio matches. GU5 is 3.23, GU2 is 2.73.
3 channel is ABS only, 4 channel is ABS & TC. 1999-2002 Zs' had Torsen posi, 1998 Z had Auburn posi. The Auburns seem to have been proven stronger than the Torsens.
For the future 'down the road' when it comes to the rear end, you had concerns about spending money on a converter. If the funds for a 12 bolt aren't there in the future, a good replacement would be a take-out from a 1998 A4 Z28. as long as 'channel' matches and ratio matches. GU5 is 3.23, GU2 is 2.73.
3 channel is ABS only, 4 channel is ABS & TC. 1999-2002 Zs' had Torsen posi, 1998 Z had Auburn posi. The Auburns seem to have been proven stronger than the Torsens.
No kidding, I never new that. Thanks for the info!
Originally Posted by Magnet
Watch FB and the Tech market place... I just bought a yank SS3600 w/ 150miles on it for $450. Long story short, buy a quality converter.
nice score! Ya I've been looking, what seems like about every hour lol
07-17-2020 | 05:15 PM
Stall speed vs. gearing 
