TCI Outlaw gate shifter install/Writeup
Part numbers from TCI and price totals, ordered from TCI directly as it was cheapest especially with discount code TCNEW0620:
Outlaw Shifter for 3 Speed Forward Pattern (w/o cover) 616531 $301.68
4 Speed Fwd Pattern Thunder Stick/Outlaw Gate Plate 618014 $28.01 - you will need this to swtich the gate on the shifter to 4l60e pattern
4 Speed Reverse Pattern Thunder Stick/Outlaw Gate Plate 618018 $34.60 - this isn't needed unless you have or are going with a Reverse manual.
Changing the gate plates is fairly easy and TCI has instructions on how to do it included in the full install instructions. I didn't know that the pins with the e-clips slide around, so if you have problems like me reinstalling them push on the opposite side and you should have an easier time.
Tools required/recommended
Drill with step/cone bits as well as a 3/8 socket adapter to speed up disassembly and reassembly
Dremel if you are going to reuse the stock auto console
self tapping screws
silicone sealant
simple hand tools
I still have more trimming to do but for now the console and shifter are functional
in my install in a stock auto car I removed everything except for the neutral safety switch off the side of the factory shifter and the one cable. I was able to utilize one of the stock auto shifter bolt and bolt holes which lined up my shifter pretty much perfectly for the other two holes and console top. this was the quick and easy way you could make or use spacers to place the shifter higher and not have to cut so much out of the upper console. for the shift cable hole you will have to move the wiring harness out of the way and use your step bits to make a reasonably sized hole for the cable to fit through (if you take one of the cable ends and remove the larger bolts you won't have to make that large of a hole, I also seem to be getting air through the new hole for some reason hence the recommendation for silicon)
The factory shift cable hole also makes install an aftermarket trans temp gauge and AFR gauge much easier.
the bulkhead bolt is also a pain in the *** as the cable is stiff and you might be swearing and that little *******
The other mounting hole was kind of a pain to get to and I believe I have heard others say the same
the shift cable comes down the passenger side of the trans and allow you to loop it around behind the trans crossmember. I suppose you could go over but I went under the crossmember and tied it up using a pair of zipties. my cable happened to come down perfectly down the passenger side just sticking it through from the top, your experience may vary and take some simple bending and rerouting.
you will have to remove the factory cable, cable bracket, and selector lever. a note on the cable bracket, the factory is set one bolt back, you will have to remove three bolts, the two for the factory bracket are longer and can be reused with TCI bracket, the third bolt will be shorter use that to replace the longer bolt hole that you won't be using. YOU WILL NEED THE BRACKET SPACERS INCLUDED IN THE KIT.
you can pretty much follow the TCI instructions on putting the gear selector on and cable hookup, the TCI instructions stated you are supposed to select low gear on the trans and shifter and adjust the large nuts on the cable until the eyelet goes in easily on the first hole, I however could not get any adjustment to allow the eyelet to go in and out of the selector easily so I got it as close as I could and went to the second adjustment removing the eyelet and putting both the trans and shifter in park and checking to see if everything still lined up, which it did and the eyelet going in a little easier in park. I started my car and checked park reverse and drive before finishing up attaching the cotter pin on the eyelet and e-clip on shifter and going for a drive to make sure everything worked correctly.
a picture of the factory bracket bolt location that you WON'T be using

