Air checking 4l60e assembled trans?
-You can air-check the Low-Reverse clutch pack with the valve-body off
-You can air-check the separate chambers of the 2-4 Servo assembly with the valve-body off.
As far as air-checking the other clutch packs go, you would place your pump assembly down so that you could install the assembled reverse-input drum and assembled input drum all together... Air-checking these 4 clutch packs via the passages on the back-side of the pump assembly.
Note: if you build a good amount of these regularly... the pump assembly and valve-body can be modified into air-check tools to test the transmissions before final assembly.
This is something that I used to do when I was starting out with my business...
After you have done enough of these, you will develop a feel for most everything and not have to bother with making air-checking tools.
I also use a transmission run-stand these days.
As far as air-checking the other clutch packs go, you would place your pump assembly down so that you could install the assembled reverse-input drum and assembled input drum all together... Air-checking these 4 clutch packs via the passages on the back-side of the pump assembly.
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I've used these "step cut" input seals on 700s. Dana includes them in his kits. Petty good if you dont have access to the resizing tools. I also used the blue scarf cut seals on the stator. Not sure about scarf cut on the 4l60e?
I've used these "step cut" input seals on 700s. Dana includes them in his kits. Petty good if you dont have access to the resizing tools. I also used the blue scarf cut seals on the stator. Not sure about scarf cut on the 4l60e?
It is easier for a beginner to have an issue with the lip-seals used on an early aluminum apply pistons.
As long as the Scarf-cut PTFE sealing rings were installed with the ring-ends correctly placed...
They usually air-check fine.
MAKE SURE that the small green O-Ring gets installed towards the bottom of the drum first or around the same time as the 3-4 clutch apply piston.
And make sure to lubricate it with assembly lube or ATF once it is installed.
This O-Ring is often forgotten by beginners.
I often crank up the line pressure on these units and prefer the solid-PTFE rings.
I used solid-PTFE O-rings and slid in pretty easily ( I alittle problem with resizing the pump O-rings for the rev-drum but got the slide in. I'm sure every thing will work, BUT I think of to many what ifs.
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-You can air-check the Low-Reverse clutch pack with the valve-body off
-You can air-check the separate chambers of the 2-4 Servo assembly with the valve-body off.
As far as air-checking the other clutch packs go, you would place your pump assembly down so that you could install the assembled reverse-input drum and assembled input drum all together... Air-checking these 4 clutch packs via the passages on the back-side of the pump assembly.
Note: if you build a good amount of these regularly... the pump assembly and valve-body can be modified into air-check tools to test the transmissions before final assembly.
This is something that I used to do when I was starting out with my business...
After you have done enough of these, you will develop a feel for most everything and not have to bother with making air-checking tools.
I also use a transmission run-stand these days.
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I use an air test plate that I cut and drilled myself out of a piece of 1/2" of aluminum plate. I can test FWD, OR, 3-4, Rev, L/R, P/R, 2nd, 3rd & 4th circuits. I do need 2 sources of 40 psi to test the 2rd release..










