Not a lot. Mostly highway `150~miles. maybe 20 miles city driving

I have a few professional mechanic acquaintances I might be able to bribe one of em with a beer to look at it.

I rebuilt the transmission myself. I really really really do not want to pull the transmission again. It is not fun not being on a lift.
I am starting to think the 2-4 band was not installed right or not able to engage.
That is the only thing that would affect 2nd and 4th simultaneously (from what I can gather).
Or perhaps the servo is not activating the band somehow.
I did compare the old band to the new. they looked identical and the drum is rides on was straight and not beveled in.

 

Ok ignore everything else above!
I am almost certain I fixed the issue (pending putting valve body back on).

The issue was that the 2-4 apply band pin was not seated correctly. I had to put it 1st and use a pry-screwdriver to push the band in place where the shift selector is.
(Do not ask me how this happened....apparently I messed up my rebuild)
Tested successfully with air to apply server on 2nd and 4th applies (yay).

Now I have a whole new issue with the check *****:
To cut to the core: Can I eliminate the 1-2 upshift ball, get a bigger ball, or am I forced to get a new plate?

Notes:
The 1-2 upshift ball was stuck when taking the valve body off again.
Someone prior to my rebuild appears to put some sort of shim in the separator plate and was not stuck upon initial inspection/rebuild and was advised to ignore it.

I am assuming this ball functions for smooth/quick shift from 2nd to 1st. This is by no means a racing vehicle so I almost don't care if that is the case.
However, the issue is that I could probably push the ball through the plate with my thumb if I pressed hard enough.
I am assume this would be a not-so-good-thing.

FYI, I am really in the hole for the project so anything I can do to save a buck I will do it and potentially come back and fix when I have some extra cash.
Thanks!

 

You can try the valve body plate ball seat kit from Fitzall part # VB-101 or install a new separator plate. I would install a new plate and be done with it.

 

As cheap as plates are, im not sure why one would mess with repairing one?

But thats me of course

 

From what I saw on WIT site yesterday they where $27 to $49 retail depending on the plate you needed.

 

I appreciate the sentiment, but like I said I am in the hole big time with this project.
It would be a little extra work to redo this, but that is not my current concern--I need this on the road asap.

Anyways, I talked to a lifetime transmission tech and he said I can eliminate this one ball.
In fact, I have watched way too many of Richard's "Precision Transmission" teardowns to locate the video(s) where he talks about eliminating probably half of the check ***** on the separator plate with little consequence.

Unless someone jumps in and tells me I am making a horrible mistake, I am going to put this thing back together.

 

Please do not eliminate that Check-Ball...
Or do anything that you have heard in those Videos.

 

Yea,,, I work under the rule that if I don't know EXACTLY what changing something does, stop and go figure it out..
U-tube videos are good for seeing whats inside something, but I never depend on the "shortcuts" or "tricks".
I cat really crazy stuff all the time.. Especially gotta love the videos by the guy who is just recycling crap he's
seen in videos and when you listen carefully you figure out he's totally full of it..

 

it's unfortunate but it seems especially with automotive most of the information on the internet is incorrect and then regurgitated. maroonmonster made a good post recently saying you have to do a bunch of reading and figure out who knows what they're talking about, who doesn't and who's just reposting (regurgitating) answers.

to OP, you've come this far, if you can't afford a new separator plate the fitzall would be the next best route. I personally would use a new plate and torlon checkballs and never worry about damaging the plate again. while I don't think Richard at precision transmission is a bad guy, as an amateur builder some of his methods, solutions and products used make me go "WTF?!" I mean Z-pack, that was like what, 15+ years ago? I was surprised that anyone still used them. Also, his solution for blocking the 4th accumulator with 2 used pistons, 1 with seals and 1 without. The cost and effort when you can plug the feed hole with a USED checkball or cup plug in a few seconds and lube the rear planets full time.

 

For anyone concerned with Separator-Plates and Check-*****...
The Hole that is most likely to be damaged is the 2nd-Feed Check-Ball Hole (at least with most GM Transmissions discussed on this Site).

You do NOT need Torlon/ Imidized Check-*****...
But using One for the 2nd-Feed Check-Ball, will prevent this failure.

Using them for the other Check-***** is not as much of an issue (depending on how the Transmission is being operated).

 

For anyone that is interested in Precision-Transmissions on YouTube:

It is nice, that they wish to try and be helpful to others...
Stating things that work for them.

But rebuilding these Transmissions does not require UNDERSTANDING of these Transmissions.
You can boil Pasta without understanding the physical-chemical changes that occur within the Pot.

However, modifying (successfully) these Transmissions (without following an established recipe) does require UNDERSTANDING of these Transmissions.

They SHOULD NOT be attempting to tell anyone how something operates...
When clearly they do not understand how something operates.

On that note... should any of you wish to learn something; DO NOT just accept an answer as valid...
Educate yourself on how to determine whether or not an answer is valid; or verify multiple times.

 

Precision Transmission: "The Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Manifold Assembly tells the PCM/ TCM when the Transmission completed a Shift".

If I ever hear this again... I am going to lose it!!!
LOL.


To be blunt... the purpose of the Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Manifold Assembly, is to provide the PCM/ TCM the position of the Manual-Valve/ Gear-Selector.
When an Automatic-Shift occurs, none of the Switches in the Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Manifold Assembly change.
They only change as the Manual-Valve moves.

 

First off, I have decided to get a plate…

Does anyone have an ACCURATE diagram of the checkballs for the separator plate and their functions?
The only one I found seems to be inaccurate and the others I have found only give numbers without descriptions or only point one to two *****.

Is that number 8?

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...i-check-valves

What about using the Transgo plate that is supposedly a made from a stronger steel instead of a Torlon/ Imidized Check-Ball?
Exploring options for Monday when I attempt to get parts locally (the dealshits are out of their minds and don't have anything in stock anyways).



And...I didn't mean to rustle so many feathers. I watch Richard's videos a somewhat guilty pleasure.
I never really pay attention enough retain anything—almost always fluid is burnt and always thoroughly inspect the hard-parts…lol.
Vorteciroc makes an interesting but pedantic point; as such, I almost never take any YouTuber’s words as gospel.

And with anything that I take any action on, I always attempt to find corroborating resources (or learn it myself).
That said, I have little reason to distrust the few guys that make transmission videos (that I have seen).

I remember that, what is the purpose of this? He talked about it, but didn’t bother to explain it to plebeians such as myself.

 

 

Thanks, I had found the first diagram u posted before and had thought it was incorrect mostly because I was misunderstanding some other documentation.

Again regarding the 1-2 upshift check ball, looking at the circuit and the description and what I have been told this ball can be eliminated.
I am fairly confident in stating the having this ball stuck or busted through will cause significantly more damage than no ball.
I am missing something?
Anyone ever had a build without this ball? If so, was there simply some sluggish shifting?

Anyways, like I said, I am just going to replace the plate. I don't like the looks of it and not crazy about the condition of the gaskets

 

I like to try and be helpful when I feel it is warranted...

So I am just going to say:
Pretty much every question that you can think of, someone else had already thought of, and tried.

People were trying to do away with that Check-Ball in 1982 with the THM700-R4...
With everything configured for a Performance Auto. Trans...
You will rip the Anchor right off of the Stock 2-4 Band ( as well as other damage) after enough shifts (especially with no Accumulation, and without a very high-stall speed Torque-Converter).

 

Fair enough, that is what I was looking for.

 

C'mon man. Who needs accumulation?

Wow, after I installed that SK my trans shifts really hard. Later . . . wow I don't know why I keep breaking things.

 

Ok installed the transgo replacement plate (which didn't come with gaskets so I reused the old/like new ones).
I now have 2th and 4th!

The vehicle runs excellent except for one concern:
If accelerating moderately to excessively, it slips from 2nd to 3rd for less than a second. And by slips, I mean the engine revs up about 500-1k RPM then settles into 3rd.

On slow acceleration, it shifts flawlessly.

 

I didn't read your whole thread and I'm not knowledgeable on tunes.

That being said, does it slip into 4th? Does the fluid smell burnt? 3/4 clutch clearance? Could be an internal leak somewhere, do you have access to a pressure gauge? Was/is the 3rd accumulator check ball capsule in good condition?
Hate to say sounds like a 3/4 clutch problem.