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What Is The Best Way To Increase Line Pressure in a 4L60E

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Old Jul 6, 2021 | 04:23 PM
  #21  
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I have never used that Sonnax part.

I seem to believe it was sold as a Spacer or Shim for a Stock Slide-Spring...?

The Aftermarket Slide-Springs currently offered, keep the Slide in the "Maximum Volume" position for most all builds.
So there is not really anything else needed.
Old Jul 6, 2021 | 04:47 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by vorteciroc
I have never used that Sonnax part.

I seem to believe it was sold as a Spacer or Shim for a Stock Slide-Spring...?

The Aftermarket Slide-Springs currently offered, keep the Slide in the "Maximum Volume" position for most all builds.
So there is not really anything else needed.
Good to know. Thank you.
Old Apr 23, 2023 | 11:33 AM
  #23  
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Default Orifice size first?

Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
that 2003 thread has ALOT of outdated info that was just harbored by misunderstanding.
NO disrespect to the guys in there. It was 2003, tuning software for these things was new...the understanding of the 60e was fairly limited at best...and they shared the best info they could at the time.

I'll highlight a few things here

"240-300 can blow the pump"....no....well not directly anyway. It can cause other issues that cascade to a pump failure...but that's a deeper discussion

"175 is the max with tuning"...also no...LOTS of variables here, but from experience seeing 200+ with all stock guts and a laptop is possible.

We can get into the weeds here if you want...but the summary will end up being:
for High HP Units-240psi target is good. The pump slide needs to stay in a high volume position to handle this properly. Your orifice sizing needs to be the primary focus and the tune will be the secondary focus.


Having a ridiculous transgo shift kit set to "chirp the tires" then stacked with shift pressure adders in the tune will cause overly firm shifts. You want QUICK not hard.
I've run multiple 4l60e and 700r4 at over 200psi FIXED line pressure...meaning it makes that pressure all the time regardless of throttle...and the shifts are not too firm because the orifice sizing and accumulator setup was correct.
Old bump, i know, but what ur saying is dont worry about adjusting the epc, and focus on the orifice size, first and foremost? Im pretty sure the stock epc is somewhere around 200, dont quote me on that, but from what im reading... so make sure ur orifices are giving enough juice and then adjust the line pressure as necessary?
im about to change all my solenoids and the press manifold switch, and harness... im about 5k into a rebuild, and all of a sudden it doesnt wanna lock up, or itll be locked up and lets loose into 3rd... when i get back up to cruise speed and let off it will 4th/lockup right away, but as soon as i set my foot on the gas, its right back to 3rd...
Im gonna put all new solenoids and do the separator plate mods... see if that fixes it... i know i didnt mod the plate when i rebuilt it... it was just a stock plate... ive read .093 for the 2nd feed hole, 3/4 .110 and the band release at .098... i have the corvette servo, when its shifting right, it does that "chirp the tires" **** and im running 34s 🤣🤣 so i think that #2 pressure is fine... but my 3-4 lags and recently this situation with the lockup... ill report back shortly, im about to crack into it
Old Apr 23, 2023 | 12:28 PM
  #24  
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As the last post has nothing to do with the thread's topic of adjusting line pressure and this is an old thread, I am closing it.




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