Hello I'm having an issue with one of the center support snap rings not seating all the way (the top one). The bottom is a thin pointy snap ring (going by the manual) and the top is the regular one. Wondering if the rear case seal is hanging it up? Also I have rollerized the output shaft is it normal to have some effort to spin it with just the lower sections in? The reverse band is in all the way on the lugs I can see the reverse servo notch through the reverse servo hole.

Almost past the groove.

 

The snap ring that holds the center support is a belvelle snap ring.
It has a taper to it. Acts like a wedge.
Looks like the c/s is up to high and you likely don't have the right rings in the right places.

 

Do you the snap rings or something else internal in the setup? Should I start by swapping the 2 c/s snap rings?

 

Like Maroon said, the snap ring on top of the center support(CS) is beveled. The flat side goes down touching the CS.
If you have that correct I would take the gear train back out and look at the thin snap ring underneath the CS. Sometimes part of it gets stuck in the wrong groove. The purpose of this snap ring is so the CS sits on it and does not gouge up the case.
Another thing to check is that the torrington bearing below the CS. Make sure that the top bearing race is seated into the CS correctly/down all the way. Hopefully this all makes sense.

 

Thanks it does help, i took that section out alot over the weeknd to double check on that bearing and the thrust washers. I bought a upgraded bronze thrust washer set but ended up using the platic thrust washer in the kit. The bronze thrust washer looked taller then the plastic one when it was installed on the planet. I will double check the snap rings to and report back, I don't remember seeing a beveled part on the snap ring. Thanks for the help

 

If memory serves me, the thrust washers are both .060"+/- a couple thou. The plastic ones are nice if things go bad they won't chew up your planetary. Metal ones are nice because they can take more abuse before they fail. It's a toss up.

There are two snap rings that are close to the same. One that goes on top of the CS and the other that goes on top of the intermediate pressure plate. The beveled snap ring goes on top of the CS. The flat on both sides snap ring goes on to of the press. plate.

 

I probably got them mixed up i bought a ck performance kit and it came with a beefy snap ring for the pressure plate so i have that one set to the side till this is figured. i will check after work today.

 

You'll want to use the snap ring from CK as long as the Int. clutch clearance is right. That snap ring will be flat both sides and is probably is .089 or .100". If you have 4 friction I like to see .040-.050 for clearance.
It's from Chrysler 727's/RE units.

 

Please delete my post.

 

yeah I had them mixed up so I used this one on top the center support it's the beveled one. So after doing that I couldn't turn the output shaft at all it feels like it's stuck, but before installing the snap ring it spinned freely. Could I have to big of a shim on the rollerized rear bearing? I'll mess it with more tomorrow.

 

Here goes the lower section with the center support on has good clearance (from what I see) if it went down amy further it would grind into the planet.

 

If I'm hearing you correctly sounds like you've now got the snap rings in the right place but when you install the snap ring on top of the CS the output shaft won't turn?
I know I said this once but make sure that snap ring that is under the CS is in correctly in the first groove right above the low band.

Concerning rollerizing the output shaft. I'd take your original selective thrust washer (3 tang) and the 4 tang washer that goes onto the output shaft and measure them. That will put you close to where you want to be with the new bearing/shim combo. Don't have the 80e selective measurement off the top of my head (though probably the same) the two washers in the turbo 400 typ. together measure about .150". The new torrington bearing measures about .142" so it doesn't take much of a shim to get you the appropriate end play (.005-.025, I shoot for .010"ish).

If you replaced the case bushing make sure it's not too high. If you put the torrington bearing in the case and push slightly down on it, the top of the bushing should still be below the top of the bearing.

Your CS looks to me like is is down all the way, can't get much closer than that.

 

I've seen guys use the 3 tang washer WITH the bearing...and it obviously causes endplay issues like this.

 

So I was still fighting the issue I took everything back out and inspected them. Came to the conclusion my center support bushing wasn't full pressed in all the way. If you zoom in you can see the machine mark barely. Pressed it in alittle more reassembled it and it spins alot easier then before. Just have to check output/input clearance and good to go. Thanks to everybody that help.