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Guys, i've run into issue.
There is no issues, but i want to make sure i installed 77754-04k valve correctly
Is this how i install the valve in order to remove PWM? :
Sonnax gives you 2 options of installation : Fig 1 for Non-PWN and fig 2 for PWM.
Fig 3 is something i came with in order to block this valve? Ugh
Block the valve inboard. Thats all you need to do. That valve is for when the bore is a hot dog through a hallway already. Ream, install the sleeve, valve, and spring to continue PWM. But if you just block the valve solid you eliminated PWM and still have a tight bore to prevent a leak since it was reamed.
I did everything!
MAAAAN i LOVE how it works now!!!!!
my tranny got a second life!!!
It is so smooth on part throttle, and holding like brand new in WOT! Shifts like DSG! This thread is gold!
Block the valve inboard. Thats all you need to do. That valve is for when the bore is a hot dog through a hallway already. Ream, install the sleeve, valve, and spring to continue PWM. But if you just block the valve solid you eliminated PWM and still have a tight bore to prevent a leak since it was reamed.
"Blocking the valve will put full unit line pressure into the converter circuit, which should be regulated between 80-90 psi. This can damage the converter, as well as cause tc ballooning which could damage the crankshaft bearings in the engine."
They want me to plug the pwm hole instead and use some long long spring inside without the sleeve, promoting theyr performance pack and saying its exclusive to this pack
Now what is the science behind? If i reverse and block the sonnax isolator sleeve inside the tcc bore, it equals as i plug the pwm hole in the sep plate.
Why they are scaring us with TC balooning and exploding and crank issues, even with the reamed regulator valve?
The sonnax kit has you block the hole in the separator plate and use the stiff spring as a means to regulate the apply pressure to around 100 psi
I'm not sure if they scare as a means to sell more of their kit vs others
Or because there were a couple isolated incidents that caused issue and they don't want any liability
I can tell you based on the huge amount I've blocked with 0 issue
and the absurd amount of the Fitzall valves that have been sold over the years...I see no credible evidence that a 4l60e with fixed line tcc apply will cause issue to engine, trans, or converter.
Hi @MaroonMonsterLS1 ! , i left the case checkball out like @2BFAST suggested. In other thead you said to leave it in.
Im a bit confused and i cant sleep well, thinking if i did the right thing or not. Should it be in or out?
Your Valve body you configured for me works flawlessly! Just that little thing im not sure of..
It does not really matter... I am assuming you are eliminating the 4th Accumulator.
Also just a note on eliminating PWM for TCC operation...
Many years ago (like Mid 1990s) we had TC Clutch Lining issues when eliminating PWM operation.
But the TC Clutch Linings changed, and there have not been issues since.
Im reviving this thread for an update and a question :
UPD: Everything works flawlessly on my TB. It is not harsh in any way. The biggest thanks i could ever give goes to Maroon ❤. My exact configuration is the perfect solution to any truck here in terms of shift feeling without being harsh and so much better than stock. These little things that was done here is a huge upgrade.
Q : im unsure of what i did to the second servo with the 4 notches.
4 Transgo notches vs GM spring that is recommended with the sonnax 2-4 servo? What is the right way of doing that?
Q : As Maroon recommended, i bought a Fitzall TCC Valve.
does it works the same as just blocking the stock valve?
Q : Since i already wasted my money on sonnax reamer and a TCC Isolator valve, can i ream and use the isolator end together with fitzall to completely block it and prevent leaks?
Thanks guys
Last edited by Edward Stark; Feb 9, 2022 at 01:53 PM.
fitzall disables the pwm and turns tcc into an on/off arrangment AFAIK. doesn't it have multiple orings (seals leaks)? "if it works don't fix it" applys here i think....
fitzall disables the pwm and turns tcc into an on/off arrangment AFAIK. doesn't it have multiple orings (seals leaks)? "if it works don't fix it" applys here i think....
I asked this question because i was a bit confused by this :
The fitzall looks from a sight of a noob like me just like the sonnax piece, and what sonnax does is leaving some EC3 or ECC stuff there?! Idk whats that, so thats where i got confused. Currently i have the fitzall. That means my PWM was shutdown right?
I just did so many mods and i cant think constructive of what step made what changes.. hahah.
the fitzall is the same as blocking stock valve but it has o rings to seal against any leaks
if you use the fitzall you do not need the reamer setup
in fact...if you do ream and sleeve I do not think the fitzall will work at all
How much if any of this would differ for a car vs a truck outside of the .500 boost valve? Glad I found this thread, seemingly saved me a lot of digging as many times this stuff is buried in long build threads, thanks guys.
Also, how much of this changes if/when the trans does let go and a rebuild becomes necessary?
from factory overruns are applied in manual 1, manual 2, and manual 3. However when in 1st or 2nd gear while in manual 3 position the overruns are NOT applied.
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