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quick question about 4l60e pump diagnosis

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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 04:36 PM
  #141  
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.078 is not ideal but it should work. A lot depends on the 3-4 clutch pack clearance.
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 04:46 PM
  #142  
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3-4 clutch clearance was .070 when i was building it. that was after air testing the input drum/reverse drum on the pump.

first pic is the pins tip. looks pretty good dont you think? also remember, because of the way i was positioned, the dial indicator is turning counter clockwise.








guess i will go ahead and clean everything good and install the seals on the servo and install. and jack up the back tires and go through all the gears. i will come back here and check this thread before i crank it up though just in case

Last edited by james28909; Apr 10, 2022 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 06:28 PM
  #143  
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stop worrying about the 3rd capsule. you're clearances are the problem.
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 06:50 PM
  #144  
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well got it put in and retainer ring on. jacked up the back tires and fired it up! ************ EXPLODED! XD nah just kidding lol

went in reverse and let it run a min or two, then put it in drive and let it work its way up through the gears. then put it in park and went to 1st and revved it up a little and let it idle back down, then did that in 2nd and 3rd and all seemed well. so i took the jack out from under it and jumped in and went for a ride. damn thing shifts perfect man. and engine braking works as expected as well. i think that old servo i had was just wore slap out. even with the seals on it the servo piston housing was loose. but i really think it was because of the seals that were on it. these new d ring seals or d shaped or whatever for the servo got it all nice and tight, even the 4th piston. so i took it for a ride down the street about 2-3 miles and it shifts quick, firm, and no slipping or flares or anything. now i just need to baby it for 100 miles or so until i can get in the gas peddle.

but remember how i said in 4th, it would drop to idle? well i think that was because the 4th piston disengaged with the old servo, but now it holds rpms, and engine brakes in 1-3 and 4th gear holds rpms. the dang ol torque converter even locks up too! LOL i am so happy man. my whole family and even my friends said i wouldnt be able to do it. but with about 500 dollars and some help from some really good people here in this forum i was able to do it.

i know my 3-4 clutch clearance was a little large, but they were used clutches to begin with. in about 100 miles im going to flush as much fluid as i can and get brand new in there. looks like when that other servo or pin bore allowed to much fluid by it, it allowed the 2nd feed oil to overcome the 3rd accumulator side of the servo and i believe i wore down on the band some. thats why i was able to get the sonnax extra long pin in there with the cover on without grinding the pin.

hopefully it is cured now for at least a few thousand miles. im gonna rebuild it again soon and upgrade some internal parts and get a better separator plate. will probably get the HD 2-3 valve as well. but yeah i guess it is fixed. i will keep this thread updated and let yall know how ti turns out in the long run. again, gentlemen, i sincerely thank you from the bottom of my heart. against all odds and my medical problems i was able to overcome and stick with it. and atleast it is running and shifting gears. we will see how it turns out though. will keep yall updated periodically! thanks again yall, i couldnt have done it without yall

edit: also, anyone in the future who is reading this and thinking about getting the vette servo and sonnax extra long pin... dont hesitate and buy it right now! you will love it. nice crisp and quick shifts on a stock motor. doesnt sit me back in my seat or anything, just nice and quick/firm shifts
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 08:49 PM
  #145  
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I use the Sonnax extra-long pin in every unit I build now. Good job. I'm glad you got it working the way you wanted it to.
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Old Apr 23, 2022 | 06:12 PM
  #146  
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i have been recommending it as well. so far i have had absolutely no problems with the transmission. but to save space and not start a new thread for a quick question... if i wanted to upgrade my 3-4 clutch pack to a 4l65e clutch pack.... would i need the appropriate clutches and steels and the right selective plate? what about the apply plate that has the tangs on the bottom of it? could i reuse this and just get new clutch and steels and selective plate? what about the snap ring? the only reason i ask is because the only thing i worry about is that day i got it put back in the truck and it was slipping for a few seconds in 3rd. if you remember, i had forgotten to put the retainer clips in the 3-2 and tcc solenoids and they popped out when i crunk it up and had to stop on a hill to get something off the hood. when i put it back in drive i thought it was first but it was actually 3rd i am pretty sure, but when i put it in drive, it was lugging up the hill and started slipping. this is the only thing i worry about and want to upgrade this and the sunshell when i take it back apart. i will get new clutches through the whole thing if it breaks down again but i want to know exactly what all is required for the 4l65e 3-4 clutch pack upgrade.

but this thing hasnt slipped or anything since i put that vette servo and extra long pin. engine and tranny temp are spot on and so far i am a happy boy! lol. i cant thank you guys enough
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Old Apr 25, 2022 | 07:16 AM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by james28909
but i want to know exactly what all is required for the 4l65e 3-4 clutch pack upgrade.

but this thing hasnt slipped or anything since i put that vette servo and extra long pin
The information for 3/4 stack is all over this forum. Take the time to find and research it.

Regarding your second comment, that is because your 2nd servo now has the time and/or ability to release and not bind with 3/4 clutch

Last edited by 2BFAST; Apr 25, 2022 at 07:56 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2022 | 10:28 AM
  #148  
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l#post20038327


run clearance in the 0.030" range
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