Upgrade 4l60e or go to 4l80e
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Upgrade 4l60e or go to 4l80e I have a level 6 4l60e from a top builder. It’s always had a 2-3 shift flare, but I’m thinking it’s not going to last a lot longer.
converter is a yank pas 3400.
Engine combo is a 377 with 20 psi peak via overspun Procharger D1x.
Car is a 2004 GTO.
Id like to keep a 4l60e if it’s possible.
Do you think an upgrade to a level 7 or 10 4l60e can survive at this power or is it time for a built 4l80e?
converter is a yank pas 3400.
Engine combo is a 377 with 20 psi peak via overspun Procharger D1x.
Car is a 2004 GTO.
Id like to keep a 4l60e if it’s possible.
Do you think an upgrade to a level 7 or 10 4l60e can survive at this power or is it time for a built 4l80e?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,615
Likes: 1,327
From: Iowa
if you paid good money for a "level 6" and it's always flared...something doesn't feel right
I'm up in NW iowa. I see both of you guys are from Iowa as well.
Shoot me a PM if you wish. We deal with high HP 60e stuff
Full disclosure, there may be times when it's more financially sound to swap to a 4l80e. Or some guys just prefer the overkill nature of the 80e. and that's perfectly fine.
We do big power 80e as well.
That said...a healthy 377 at 20 psi I would hope should make near the 800hp ballpark. a 60e CAN live at that power level. But it will need a good list of parts and alot of attention to the hydraulics.
Best of luck to both of you guys
I'm up in NW iowa. I see both of you guys are from Iowa as well.
Shoot me a PM if you wish. We deal with high HP 60e stuff
Full disclosure, there may be times when it's more financially sound to swap to a 4l80e. Or some guys just prefer the overkill nature of the 80e. and that's perfectly fine.
We do big power 80e as well.
That said...a healthy 377 at 20 psi I would hope should make near the 800hp ballpark. a 60e CAN live at that power level. But it will need a good list of parts and alot of attention to the hydraulics.
Best of luck to both of you guys
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
This is a couple years ago. First night at track with the 377 was on about 14 psi at this time. You can hear the flare on the 2-3 shift. It hasn’t gotten any worse at 20 psi. More pressure on the tune on the 2-3 did nothing. Smoke is tire smoke from the burnout still rolling out. Never been on a dyno car is on e85 at 10.6 to 1 static compression. I do my own work and tuning, but i know nothing about building transmissions. I also use meth injection and a btr intake as the other changes since the video.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YQoO-kMJcDM
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YQoO-kMJcDM
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
I'd rather not say. I haven't ran it yet at 20 psi yet just street tuned. I hope to go within the next few weeks for a test and tune. It's easily 800+ rwhp. I'm spinning the D1x 4000 rpm over max recommended impeller speed...lol.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,615
Likes: 1,327
From: Iowa
OK
short answer given the amount of info, is that the 80e will likely be a worthwhile way to spend your money and get plenty of reassurance that you have a trans you don't have to worry about
That said, the 60e can be made to live if you're hard-set on keeping it. Just get the checkbook ready
short answer given the amount of info, is that the 80e will likely be a worthwhile way to spend your money and get plenty of reassurance that you have a trans you don't have to worry about
That said, the 60e can be made to live if you're hard-set on keeping it. Just get the checkbook ready
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Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Absolutely talk to MaroonMonster as he is one of the true experts here.
While a 4L80E is a good choice for 800 rwhp, it won't be cheap either - a JY trans won't hold up; you'll have to buy at least a moderately built one. Plus torque converter, driveshaft and electrical changes.
While a 4L80E is a good choice for 800 rwhp, it won't be cheap either - a JY trans won't hold up; you'll have to buy at least a moderately built one. Plus torque converter, driveshaft and electrical changes.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
A freshen up/upgrade to level 7 from the same builder is certainly my cheapest option. Looking at the parts list between a level 6 and 7 the primary difference in parts seems to be just the input shaft. I would also think if I told them the issue was a 2-3 shift flare that they could fix that during the upgrade.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
I don’t disagree. I didn’t make a big issue of it 3-4 years ago when I got the trans so it’s pointless to make a big issue of it now. All I can do is mention it and see if they can address it on a rebuild.
If I would of made a big deal of it day one and they told me to pound sand I’d feel differently. I don’t know how they would of treated me on it because I didn’t make a big deal of it or insist they make it right.
If I would of made a big deal of it day one and they told me to pound sand I’d feel differently. I don’t know how they would of treated me on it because I didn’t make a big deal of it or insist they make it right.
I would think the torque of the larger motor would be harder on the trans. How long have you been running it?
A freshen up/upgrade to level 7 from the same builder is certainly my cheapest option. Looking at the parts list between a level 6 and 7 the primary difference in parts seems to be just the input shaft. I would also think if I told them the issue was a 2-3 shift flare that they could fix that during the upgrade.
A freshen up/upgrade to level 7 from the same builder is certainly my cheapest option. Looking at the parts list between a level 6 and 7 the primary difference in parts seems to be just the input shaft. I would also think if I told them the issue was a 2-3 shift flare that they could fix that during the upgrade.
2k ish hard miles.
Yes the 6 and 7 difference from same builded was the input shaft.
I also have a slight 2-3 shift flare as well however not sure if that is tune related.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Hmm...I may just live with it then if it doesn’t get any worse. I’m not sure what changes between a level 7 and the next thing up the level 10, but at that price point the 4l80e starts to make more sense.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 187
Likes: 23
From: Israel
his knowledge is absolute and his 4l60e will behave way more superior than a stock 4l80. If GM find his developments, the whole engeneering team will drop theyr jaws.
Just do it.
I am a long time 4l60 hater, but I will say that the internals can be built to handle enough to rip off the tailshaft. Until you hook good enough to rip off the tailshaft, a 4l60 CAN be built to work. Whether it is worth the hassle is another question, although I have to admit that all the 4l80 fanboys rarely tell you how many times they welded clutches together. If you do decide to upgrade, be aware a few hammer blows to the GTO transmission tunnel are a required part of a 4l80 upgrade. It is not a simple tune and electrical issue, although it is not that difficult either.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa