3-4 clearance
Hey guys,
Quick question.
I'm checking my 3-4 clearance (dry)
and I am getting right around .035"
I'm using 7 x.065" Bw HE friction
6 x.095" frictions
.192" backing plate
.092" snap ring
.220 apply plate
Does the clearance sound right? Everywhere I read indicates I should've had around .065" of clearance using a standard 4l65e stack. Do you guys use a feeler gauge between the snap ring and the backing plate to check clearance correct? Or is it between backing plate and the friction? Sorry for the noob questions.
trying to aim for .025-.030" clearance atm.
using the 1.530 "overall height as a guide btw, seems like this stack gets me right at 1.53
Quick question.
I'm checking my 3-4 clearance (dry)
and I am getting right around .035"
I'm using 7 x.065" Bw HE friction
6 x.095" frictions
.192" backing plate
.092" snap ring
.220 apply plate
Does the clearance sound right? Everywhere I read indicates I should've had around .065" of clearance using a standard 4l65e stack. Do you guys use a feeler gauge between the snap ring and the backing plate to check clearance correct? Or is it between backing plate and the friction? Sorry for the noob questions.
trying to aim for .025-.030" clearance atm.
using the 1.530 "overall height as a guide btw, seems like this stack gets me right at 1.53
Hey guys,
Quick question.
I'm checking my 3-4 clearance (dry)
and I am getting right around .035"
I'm using 7 x.065" Bw HE friction
6 x.095" frictions
.192" backing plate
.092" snap ring
.220 apply plate
Does the clearance sound right? Everywhere I read indicates I should've had around .065" of clearance using a standard 4l65e stack. Do you guys use a feeler gauge between the snap ring and the backing plate to check clearance correct? Or is it between backing plate and the friction? Sorry for the noob questions.
trying to aim for .025-.030" clearance atm.
using the 1.530 "overall height as a guide btw, seems like this stack gets me right at 1.53
Quick question.
I'm checking my 3-4 clearance (dry)
and I am getting right around .035"
I'm using 7 x.065" Bw HE friction
6 x.095" frictions
.192" backing plate
.092" snap ring
.220 apply plate
Does the clearance sound right? Everywhere I read indicates I should've had around .065" of clearance using a standard 4l65e stack. Do you guys use a feeler gauge between the snap ring and the backing plate to check clearance correct? Or is it between backing plate and the friction? Sorry for the noob questions.
trying to aim for .025-.030" clearance atm.
using the 1.530 "overall height as a guide btw, seems like this stack gets me right at 1.53
.035 is good, set band clearance around .060 to .070. to two clearances work together.
If you have a spare .106 plate that will take up .010 clearance. That's the setup I run a lot. 6) .065 frictions, 5) .095 steels and 1) .106 steel. Once the frictions are wet and compress a little you'll be around .035 clearance.
With 6.095 steels you end up around .045-.050 after wet and compressed.
With 6.095 steels you end up around .045-.050 after wet and compressed.
I don't think it really matters which way you check it. I check between backing plate and the friction, but you need to be careful that you're not putting so much pressure that you **** the other side of the clutch pack.
you probably think I'm an idiot but I damaged the surface of the friction sticking feeler gauges in between the plate and the friction. I also checked the clearance with the 5 return springs. Is that the right way of doing it or do I omit the springs just for checking?
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/254104270639
I use an old Mopar 518 rear checking tool. It's a long flat bar with a slot int it. It fits across the drum Then you can measure the actual friction movement from released to applied with a dial indicator.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254104270639
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254104270639
It is often small things that experience teaches you...
When you want to use Feeler-gauges to check Clutch Clearance...
Do not alternate the last Friction and Steel before the Backing-Plate...
Instead (from the Backing-Plate down) use a Steel, Steel, Friction, Friction, and then the rest of the Stack.
Now you will avoid cutting any of the Frictions with the Feeler-gauges (they will be between two Steels).
Also...
The Modern (1-piece) Apply Plate only goes one way.
Most of the thicker Backing Plates only go one way...
But some of the thinner Backing Plates will go either way.
Just look carefully.
When you want to use Feeler-gauges to check Clutch Clearance...
Do not alternate the last Friction and Steel before the Backing-Plate...
Instead (from the Backing-Plate down) use a Steel, Steel, Friction, Friction, and then the rest of the Stack.
Now you will avoid cutting any of the Frictions with the Feeler-gauges (they will be between two Steels).
Also...
The Modern (1-piece) Apply Plate only goes one way.
Most of the thicker Backing Plates only go one way...
But some of the thinner Backing Plates will go either way.
Just look carefully.
It is often small things that experience teaches you...
When you want to use Feeler-gauges to check Clutch Clearance...
Do not alternate the last Friction and Steel before the Backing-Plate...
Instead (from the Backing-Plate down) use a Steel, Steel, Friction, Friction, and then the rest of the Stack.
Now you will avoid cutting any of the Frictions with the Feeler-gauges (they will be between two Steels).
Also...
The Modern (1-piece) Apply Plate only goes one way.
Most of the thicker Backing Plates only go one way...
But some of the thinner Backing Plates will go either way.
Just look carefully.

When you want to use Feeler-gauges to check Clutch Clearance...
Do not alternate the last Friction and Steel before the Backing-Plate...
Instead (from the Backing-Plate down) use a Steel, Steel, Friction, Friction, and then the rest of the Stack.
Now you will avoid cutting any of the Frictions with the Feeler-gauges (they will be between two Steels).
Also...
The Modern (1-piece) Apply Plate only goes one way.
Most of the thicker Backing Plates only go one way...
But some of the thinner Backing Plates will go either way.
Just look carefully.

I ended up stacking all frictions together and all plates together to check clearance lol then I come in after the fact and u pretty much say the same thing (end with a steel) ,thanks vorteciroc !
I use an old Mopar 518 rear checking tool. It's a long flat bar with a slot int it. It fits across the drum Then you can measure the actual friction movement from released to applied with a dial indicator.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254104270639
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254104270639










