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Ok damn I never knew which way to put those or anywhere instructing which way which way should I do it and is my wide bushing correct? I would like to know so I don't mess it up thank you.
wide bushing is fine.
Orientation relative to the lube hole is insignificant.
But orientation relative to each other when stacking bushings is critical. Need to make sure the slots act as one continuous slot.
"But orientation relative to each other when stacking bushings is critical. Need to make sure the slots act as one continuous slot"
Interesting fact on the double stack bushings. I didnt know this either......
I have never ran the double stack either though, just the wide. Normally when using the Sonnax wide bushing I have to "fit" it to reaction shaft. Which is an easy task.....
I have avquestion guys I'm now stressing about this so I checked my input drum air check they all hold good except when I put fluid on top where input shaft seals to case there's air bubbles coming out steady from this little hole not sure what this means hope I don't need a new drum because I don't have much $ right now any help? You guys will know pointing to it with screwdriver.
Edited about right after air checked again now I see some bubbles coming out of different spot looks like I need a new drum then right? very disappointing.
Thanks everyone for all the replys and sharing your knowledge and experience.
press the shaft, put green loctite on the smooth part of the shaft (not the splines) and press back together. this a common repair and should be done on all units.
I have avquestion guys I'm now stressing about this so I checked my input drum air check they all hold good except when I put fluid on top where input shaft seals to case there's air bubbles coming out steady from this little hole not sure what this means hope I don't need a new drum because I don't have much $ right now any help? You guys will know pointing to it with screwdriver.
Edited about right after air checked again now I see some bubbles coming out of different spot looks like I need a new drum then right? very disappointing.
It has been a while, but I think a small amount of air from there is okay. The main thing is that there are no air leaks between shaft and the drum. I will check a few drums later this morning and get back.
After looking at an input drum more closely, that appears to be a plug. So, no air should not be coming from around that plug. You could try removing the plug and putting a setscrew in its place or replace the drum.
I will post some pictures of my reaction shaft and sun gear bushings how do I increase lube to that area? and also I had a question about how they say pump vane,rotor,slide clearance and says to sand down slide or rotor if needed is this something your supposed to do? I never did this before i didn't know I was supposed to. I took the pump back apart to check it out do you havr any tips about that?
Can barely get .002 in there or between my straight edge and slide. Between straight edge and rotor it goes between a little easier with .002 is this good enough? Have new pump vanes checked thickness of my rings they are both the same.
Can barely get .002 in there or between my straight edge and slide. Between straight edge and rotor it goes between a little easier with .002 is this good enough? Have new pump vanes checked thickness of my rings they are both the same.
I might just replace the drum there's two spots where air is coming through. I found a refurbished bare drum for 90 bucks I might get and fix the old one later. So is it ok to sand down on the slide? The .002 won't fit.
[QUOTE=RobPH;20488193] I don't think you should have to sand it I think it fine it fit before doesn't make sense why it says it must have that clearance.
Bolt the pump halves together with just the side and pivot pin. Shake the pump and if you can hear or feel the side moving it is good. Unbolt pump halves and fully assemble rotor, vanes, rings and seal. bolt pump halves together again. Now with a small screwdriver go through the front seal area and see if you can rotate the rotor. If rotor turns all is good.
If you can get a .002 feeler gauge between straight edge, slide and rotor that is what you want. You can sand the slide and rotor if need be. If you are reusing all of the same parts, the clearances shouldn't be too tight.
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