I sanded down lightly a few gouges after removing pump filter seal one section might look slightly raised I locktighted it in am I ok or what should I do do I need a new pump body Any help please?


Filter seal tocktite 545 is all I had hope that will work hydraulic thread sealant.raised section on the bottom very small.

 

I can't tell much by that pic, but it should be okay.

 

IMO should be fine

 

I Have another question if you guys could help while I have this thread talking about the pump. Smaller diameter front pump bushing how far down do you drive it I've heard some say flush I think I've seen one bushing that is wider too but my 2003 oem 4l60e one isn't that wide it also sits lower what should I do on my new one?

 

I use a wide front & rear stator bushing in all of them. I don't remember any OE wide front stator bushing. On the front there is a ledge inside that you can press up to. Some will press to the bottom edge of the champher on the front of the stator & some only press to to flush with the edge.

 

Tis is what oem looked like so go down to same chamfered edge even with wide bushing or go flush with wide bushing?

 

One more thing also one price of my reverse sprag fell out I snapped it back in is this ok normal to happen or do I need a new one after putting it back it looked like it was Working normally?

 

The wide front stator bushing is actually a 350 bushing its useful if you have some minor wear on the input shaft extends to area with no wear above and below.
I only press them flush and always with an actual press. All the way down they tend to cone in and the shaft won't go through.

 

If one of the rollers came out of the low roller clutch but springs are ok . Just putting it back in should be fine. However if the springs do not hold it in then replace, I prefer to just replace these as they are cheap .

 

I wish I would have maybe I will I just don't feel like taking trans all the way apart again maybe I should but springs were good I put a dual cage fwd sprag on input drum thing went on very tight. I ordered it on eBay hope it's the right part seemed to work good just fit tight. I have a bushing driver set hope it will work I don't have a press maybe use a small diameter driver and tap it to push out the coned in area if it happens? What can I do use a vice? Is it ok that it goes down so far why is the OE bushing so narrow? Can't find one like the original I knocked the old one out.
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If the springs can't hold the rollers from falling out it needs to be replaced. It's a lot easier to replace it now than it is when it is in the car, and you have to pull the trans back out.

 

Once that bushing is out you can see how the machining for the front bushing stopped at the ledge. Different machinist's cut it deeper than other's. What I'm saying is that I have never had a wide bushing not fit. Some go to the edge of that chamfered edge and some won't. it's not real fussy, just as long as it it doesn't stick out of the stator. if pressed to hard into the ledge it will cause to tight of a fit. Then you will have to start over again. The wide bushing is much more difficult to get back out.
this is a picture of the bushing tools I use regularly. These came from Matco tools. I ground down some of the tips and the back side of the hex where i would contact the inside of the stator. The second picture shows 5 different ones. the three from left to right are the ones I use the most. I also have a coping chisel that I ground down the edges. that way it doesn't cut into the stator's softer metal.

 

I installed wide sun gear sonnax bushing it had these lines around the edge is this no good now looks like it's coming apart I was careful I thought used a vice with bushing driver correct size drivers on the vice so I wouldn't marr it up. Can anyone tell me if this is no good or is it okay?

 

If the bushing doesn't bind on the shaft, it is good. It appears to be a mark from the bushing driver.

 

That's definitely a bushing driver line. If you measure the driver length it is usually made for the OE narrow bushing. Add a little lube to the bushing and trial fit it on the reaction shaft. It must spin freely, if it feels a little tight use a disc brake flex hone to polish it up some. Or you can use some scotch bright wrapped around a drill bit or a accumulator buddy. I had one that was a little tight and thought it would fly, it welded itself to the reaction shaft on a road test.

 

If it is just a bur, I have had some luck with tapping the shaft or whatever piece the bushing is in with a plastic hammer. This will flatten out the bur a lot of times.

 

Thanks for replies guys so you think I'm good then? And so as long as it spins freely it's ok? And maybe use a brake cylinder home? Also does placement look good on my depth? I appreciate all the help. And what if the puzzle piece looking part started to separate at one point a little when I was driving it in?

 

 

I honed it out alittle the gouge is still there looks kinda deep is that bad to the point I gotta redo it? It's not very big but I don't know what should I do what would you do? I don't mind reinstalling if I have to.

 

I honed it out alittle the gouge is still there looks kinda deep is that bad to the point I gotta redo it? It's not very big but I don't know what should I do what would you do? I don't mind reinstalling if I have to.