Rebuilt 4l60e no movement.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Rebuilt 4l60e no movement. I have a 96 4l60e 4x4 that I just installed less than 25 miles ago. While driving it home the check engine light was on and it was P0753 for Shift Solenoid A. So I dropped the pan, checked the resistance and sure as **** it was bad. I went ahead and replaced them both
After putting it back together I fill it back up with trans fluid and back it down the driveway to go for a spin. Get 50 ft and there it sits. Will not move in forward any gear, or reverse. Could this be something electrical or did the pump really take a crap that fast.
Thanks for your help in advance.
After putting it back together I fill it back up with trans fluid and back it down the driveway to go for a spin. Get 50 ft and there it sits. Will not move in forward any gear, or reverse. Could this be something electrical or did the pump really take a crap that fast.
Thanks for your help in advance.
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 716
From: Poplarville, MS
The transmission will have 3rd gear and reverse without any electrical. How much did you have to pull the torque converter out of the trans to get it bolt up to the flex plate? Did you undo the manual valve link when replacing the shift solenoids?
A quick way to check if the pump is working, is to check the trans fluid with the engine off. The fluid should read over full. Now start the engine and check the fluid. The fluid should have now gone down to something close to the full mark, or at least gone down. If fluid level does not go down, the pump is not working. You can also unhook one of the cooler lines and start the engine for a few seconds. Should pump fluid out of line really fast.
A quick way to check if the pump is working, is to check the trans fluid with the engine off. The fluid should read over full. Now start the engine and check the fluid. The fluid should have now gone down to something close to the full mark, or at least gone down. If fluid level does not go down, the pump is not working. You can also unhook one of the cooler lines and start the engine for a few seconds. Should pump fluid out of line really fast.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
The transmission will have 3rd gear and reverse without any electrical. How much did you have to pull the torque converter out of the trans to get it bolt up to the flex plate? Did you undo the manual valve link when replacing the shift solenoids?
A quick way to check if the pump is working, is to check the trans fluid with the engine off. The fluid should read over full. Now start the engine and check the fluid. The fluid should have now gone down to something close to the full mark, or at least gone down. If fluid level does not go down, the pump is not working. You can also unhook one of the cooler lines and start the engine for a few seconds. Should pump fluid out of line really fast.
A quick way to check if the pump is working, is to check the trans fluid with the engine off. The fluid should read over full. Now start the engine and check the fluid. The fluid should have now gone down to something close to the full mark, or at least gone down. If fluid level does not go down, the pump is not working. You can also unhook one of the cooler lines and start the engine for a few seconds. Should pump fluid out of line really fast.
I did remove a line from the radiator and It had zero spray. Trans fluid just kind of dribbled down the radiator.
I did not undo the manual valve link when replacing the solenoids.
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 716
From: Poplarville, MS
As far as the how much the torque converter pulled out I do not know. Stock converter so I just put it back in.
I did remove a line from the radiator and It had zero spray. Trans fluid just kind of dribbled down the radiator.
I did not undo the manual valve link when replacing the solenoids.
I did remove a line from the radiator and It had zero spray. Trans fluid just kind of dribbled down the radiator.
I did not undo the manual valve link when replacing the solenoids.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I have removed the pump and I am seeing no damage. Is there something that I should be looking for?
Also I should note that yesterday when I started it up to tow it in the garage, I put it in drive and was able to drive it in the garage. Once i got in the garage i put it in reverse and nothing. I put it back in drive and nothing again.
Thank you again for the help.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I have removed the pump and I am seeing no damage. Is there something that I should be looking for?
Also I should note that yesterday when I started it up to tow it in the garage, I put it in drive and was able to drive it in the garage. Once i got in the garage i put it in reverse and nothing. I put it back in drive and nothing again.
Thank you again for the help.
Also I should note that yesterday when I started it up to tow it in the garage, I put it in drive and was able to drive it in the garage. Once i got in the garage i put it in reverse and nothing. I put it back in drive and nothing again.
Thank you again for the help.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
As far as the pump you pulled, inspect the rotor carefully to see if there's any fracturing - also make sure that the slide support ring and cover are installed. Also check to see if the PR valve will move freely on its own or if it's sticking...An intermittent movement condition as you described in your post w/the pump pics is usually caused by a failing pump that's beginning to break up but yours appears to be intact. It can also be caused by a sticking or stuck PR valve. Look at the conical filter and its o-ring to see if it got pinched/torn (or if its missing).
Lastly, What about valve body tests, AFL valve specifically? 96-00 had more issues than other vintages w/worn AFL valves. I will usually bore/ream then for the Sonnax oversized AFL valve kit if the valve fails to hold at least 12 inches of vacuum. These aren't likely causing your problem but doesn't hurt to check if you haven't already and the trans is out and apart.
Reinstallation: Put 1-2 quarts into the converter before installing it back onto the trans (assuming it's not already full) and once on and fully engaged w/the pump, spin the converter a bunch of times until fluid starts to trickle out of the cooler line(s)...that will at least confirm it's moving fluid when converter is spinning. Then install it, fill w/fluid and do a line pressure test once back in and engine running...
Also, flush your lines and cooler (as well as any external coolers) to rule out any restrictions if you haven't done that already...Seen a few rebuilt transmissions have issues w/shifting/movement or even gear train failure due to lines and/or cooler(s) restricted or clogged by tons of clutch material and other contaminant.
Last edited by Powertrainconcepts; Mar 9, 2023 at 07:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Ok so I pulled the transmission again and swapped out the pump with the original and I now have pressure.
But I now have no 3rd or 4th gear. Have the pressure gauge and in park it is at 50 psi, reverse is 70 psi, but driving in drive it does not change from 50 psi as it shifts from 1st to second or as it tries to shift into 3rd
And yes I did mean splines sorry not threads.
But I now have no 3rd or 4th gear. Have the pressure gauge and in park it is at 50 psi, reverse is 70 psi, but driving in drive it does not change from 50 psi as it shifts from 1st to second or as it tries to shift into 3rd
And yes I did mean splines sorry not threads.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Likes: 490
From: Roxana, IL
You should have 70 PSI minimum in P,N, OD & D. R should go 125-150. It takes 55psi to move the 1-2 shift valve M1 & M2 should go 180 - 200. if M1-2 doesn't go to 180+ You have no line rise. You still have a pump issue. Pressure regulator valve needs a vacuum test. pump halves need blocked or cut. Not that you did this but I had customer that did his own and it slipped in all ranges. He put his pump body gasket in between the pump halves...
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=Maverick70080;20490117]Ok so I pulled the transmission again and swapped out the pump with the original and I now have pressure.
But I now have no 3rd or 4th gear. Have the pressure gauge and in park it is at 50 psi, reverse is 70 psi, but driving in drive it does not change from 50 psi as it shifts from 1st to second or as it tries to shift into 3rd
And yes I did mean splines sorry not threads.[/QUOTE
So no line rise upon acceleration and weak pressure in reverse is likely a pump issue. Was the pump you installed ever disassembled and checked or just put back in? Did you install the pump-case gasket? What about the boost valve - was/is it securely installed, snap ring fully in the groove? No boost pressure usually means boost valve is either super worn or not installed correctly or rotor/slide may be coming apart.
But I now have no 3rd or 4th gear. Have the pressure gauge and in park it is at 50 psi, reverse is 70 psi, but driving in drive it does not change from 50 psi as it shifts from 1st to second or as it tries to shift into 3rd
And yes I did mean splines sorry not threads.[/QUOTE
So no line rise upon acceleration and weak pressure in reverse is likely a pump issue. Was the pump you installed ever disassembled and checked or just put back in? Did you install the pump-case gasket? What about the boost valve - was/is it securely installed, snap ring fully in the groove? No boost pressure usually means boost valve is either super worn or not installed correctly or rotor/slide may be coming apart.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
You should have 70 PSI minimum in P,N, OD & D. R should go 125-150. It takes 55psi to move the 1-2 shift valve M1 & M2 should go 180 - 200. if M1-2 doesn't go to 180+ You have no line rise. You still have a pump issue. Pressure regulator valve needs a vacuum test. pump halves need blocked or cut. Not that you did this but I had customer that did his own and it slipped in all ranges. He put his pump body gasket in between the pump halves...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=Powertrainconcepts;20490130] I did not open it up. I do not know if it was ever opened up. The trans was rebuilt about 1000.00 miles ago. The truck has sat for years and now my nephew wants to buy it for his first vehicle. That is why I started messing with this again. When the same thing happened last summer, that I already had the trans rebuilt for, I went and bought a new to me rebuilt trans. After installing that and driving it home is where this thread started.
If it was opened up it would have been years ago but not that many miles ago. I would never know.
Ok so I pulled the transmission again and swapped out the pump with the original and I now have pressure.
But I now have no 3rd or 4th gear. Have the pressure gauge and in park it is at 50 psi, reverse is 70 psi, but driving in drive it does not change from 50 psi as it shifts from 1st to second or as it tries to shift into 3rd
And yes I did mean splines sorry not threads.[/QUOTE
So no line rise upon acceleration and weak pressure in reverse is likely a pump issue. Was the pump you installed ever disassembled and checked or just put back in? Did you install the pump-case gasket? What about the boost valve - was/is it securely installed, snap ring fully in the groove? No boost pressure usually means boost valve is either super worn or not installed correctly or rotor/slide may be coming apart.
But I now have no 3rd or 4th gear. Have the pressure gauge and in park it is at 50 psi, reverse is 70 psi, but driving in drive it does not change from 50 psi as it shifts from 1st to second or as it tries to shift into 3rd
And yes I did mean splines sorry not threads.[/QUOTE
So no line rise upon acceleration and weak pressure in reverse is likely a pump issue. Was the pump you installed ever disassembled and checked or just put back in? Did you install the pump-case gasket? What about the boost valve - was/is it securely installed, snap ring fully in the groove? No boost pressure usually means boost valve is either super worn or not installed correctly or rotor/slide may be coming apart.
If it was opened up it would have been years ago but not that many miles ago. I would never know.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=Maverick70080;20490134]
I did not open it up. I do not know if it was ever opened up. The trans was rebuilt about 1000.00 miles ago. The truck has sat for years and now my nephew wants to buy it for his first vehicle. That is why I started messing with this again. When the same thing happened last summer, that I already had the trans rebuilt for, I went and bought a new to me rebuilt trans. After installing that and driving it home is where this thread started.
If it was opened up it would have been years ago but not that many miles ago. I would never know. If you end up having to pull the trans back out, go through the pump (new rotor/slide/internals kit, Sonnax boost valve; check the PR valve for sticking/seizure in the bore)and replace all the solenoids and wiring harness. Then inspect and air check everything.
Your issue is in either the pump or electronics/electrical.
I did not open it up. I do not know if it was ever opened up. The trans was rebuilt about 1000.00 miles ago. The truck has sat for years and now my nephew wants to buy it for his first vehicle. That is why I started messing with this again. When the same thing happened last summer, that I already had the trans rebuilt for, I went and bought a new to me rebuilt trans. After installing that and driving it home is where this thread started.
If it was opened up it would have been years ago but not that many miles ago. I would never know.
Your issue is in either the pump or electronics/electrical.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Likes: 490
From: Roxana, IL
Did you get the EPC solenoid end plug in the wrong slot?
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 716
From: Poplarville, MS
This proves that the pump is working and as Tranzman says there is most likely something wrong with the EPC solenoid, its wiring or PCM/TCM. I'm thinking wiring or PCM/TCM since 2 transmissions are doing the same thing.