When building up a clutch pack does the wavy plate always have to go on top of the piston of can you put a flat/ wave/friction etc ?
I saw on another forum where a guy was having an issue getting clearance on a fwd stack and it was suggested to do that in that order.

Also on the intermediate - did the early units come without a wave plate in the stack that anyone knows about? This is a unit out of a motor home chassis that weighs more than 16k as it has the parking pawl removed and has straight cut planets on the output. Mine doesn't have the intermediate wave and am wondering if I should go thru the trouble of installing one and since i have .073" clearance should I try go get it tighter or leave it ( unit is going back in a 12k pound motorhome behind an 8.1vortec) . The unit shifted fine and nothing harsh or ill mannered before I yanked it out.

 

Is anyone taking this account seriously with a username like that?
Chapelle Show classic

They should all come with a wave
.073 is too loose
always best to have the wave against the piston and a flat steel on top of the wave
I'd install a wave in that setup yes

 

Lol - I also use Tyrone Trump on other places.
It has the early piston that is higher so the steel sits flat on the piston and not on the snap ring so it was set up to not run it
Drives you crazy with these engineering changes ( or cost cutting?) One would think they know this is a trans going into something heavy so they delete small pieces here and there that overall can help the thing live such as these wave plates and also the silencer ring which was also missing

 

The waves serve a purpose. They slow the beating that an abrupt apply to the frictions teeth would have without a wave. They also help in garage shift feel in the forward pack. the element that holds the car still needs to apply before the the driving element. if it happens the other way around garage shifts are harsh. The wave helps in that apply speed. I have not had to many hot-rodders/car guy's complain when the wave is left out but the OE builds for the masses and not the minority.
Only the very early 4L80E's got the silencer ring put in them. I believe that many changes got made as cost savings measures. save $1 per unit, save the company millions! Probably like the silencer ring. eliminating it won't cause the transmission to fail under warranty, However it may cause it to be a shorter life span and need rebuild sooner, hey who cares it made it out of warranty...

 

Gutted the old 475 trans that came out of my RV and it had a wave steel and 2 .097 steels so I was able to get the stack to a snug .043.
I read that the early units without the wave plates had a really small intermediate feed orifice and should be drill to .093 - I am assuming this is on the separator plate and if so does anyone have a diagram as I cannot seem to find it

 

Tyrone Biggums ain't got nothing on Buc Nasty!

 

I saw they stopped using the silencer but I spent the couple bucks and put it back in .
Just surprised they kept the bevel plates in the direct and fwd but not the intermediate and these things obviously were spec'ed out and built for the P32 and larger motor home chassis with removing the parking brake and the straight cut planets.
My braked rev manual vb 350 behind the 388 in my vega does that unsettling reverse "boom" - next trip inside I am going to put the waves back as it is only 525 hp street car.

 

LOL - and i will not even try to post the one about the " n family or Clayton Bigsby"

 

I've only overhauled 2 units, both 1995 models. Neither of them had the intermediate clutchpack cushion plate and I believe the ATSG doesn't show one either. But every other clutchpack did have the cushion plate, which was reinstalled and clutch clearance checked out ok. These were just overhauled units for typical applications, not high performance builds.

I just assumed it was added later on the intermediate? 🤔

The early cushion plates are more like dished-looking than wavy-looking.

 

Yeah I had the bevel/ dish plate in my direct and fwd also - per Jakes kit instruction I left it out to allow the extra clutch plates.
It seems they did go back to a wave in the intermediate after 96

 

Alot of 4l80 also have 4 intermediate plates and it's incredibly unnecessary
I usually go back to 3 plates for most everything

 

any ideas on the intermediate feed orifice and drilling it to .093 on implementing the wave plate and where is the orifice ?

 

In 97 and up the intermediate wave plate is an 8 tang black plate that requires the use of a 97-UP late intermediate piston like one with casting number 24202553 (.095 thickness). You can use a TH400 34125 intermediate wave plate (.060 thick) but it requires the early intermediate piston 91-96 with casting number 8661657. You can't use the 97-up piston with that 34125 wave plate.

I did a 95 build and ditched the early wave in the direct completely and used a TH400 thick wave 34127 (.060) in the forward because it's better than using one of those thinner forward 4L80E waves that can get stuck in the grooves of the drum.

 

Maroonmonster lists some options for 4L80E orifice sizing, near the bottom of this page he made here: https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...-ls/4l80e-info

Stall speed certainly impacts shift feel.

 

Think you can also machine the early piston to allow the tangs on the new wavy to fit and the issue with using the 400 plate on a late piston is the first steel will sit on the snap ring and not seat on the piston- I lucked out and cannibalized my old 475 for the waves on the fwd and inter.
It looks like the molded steel pistons sit a little higher and appears there is no way any steel will get low enough to get into that clean out groove.

 

Gonna be running Jakes B82 low stall converter and he recommended .086 - .096- .082 for 2nd, 3, 4th
I was trying to locate where exactly is the intermediate feed orifice (if it is on the plate or elsewhere) Clinebarger on another board mentioned about opening it up to .093 if you are converting from factory non wave to wave as they left it really small.

 

are you using jakes plate to delete the accumulators?are you dual feeding directs?

 

dual feed direct - leaving the accumulators

 

Clinebarger is referring to the 2nd feed. The 1-2. Shown as "C-2nd" in the diagram tayto posted.

 

K now it all makes sense- I have the GM hydra-matic tech guide and saw they referenced the Intermediate clutch orifice on the center section and thought it was that