4L60E Forward friction
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Likes: 490
From: Roxana, IL
4L60E Forward friction I have almost always used Borg/Warner or Raybestos forward paper frictions. I have used Raybestos Stage 1's on occasion, but don't really have any real world feedback from testing. I mean there are OE unit's that have "like new" Forward frictions in there after 100K plus miles. I have also seen them paper thin and not burned. I have seen them with burn stripes but full thickness..
Really there is so many to choose from.
Allomatic black 512704 or tan 512708,
Alto HEG 057730-180, Red 057740A
B/W Paper (anti shudder) 30824AM
Exedy DAG94810
Raybestos Paper R505705, H/E R502650, Stage 1 R600240 & Blue plate R577590,
I am curious, what's your opinion on the best friction for that area and why?
Really there is so many to choose from.
Allomatic black 512704 or tan 512708,
Alto HEG 057730-180, Red 057740A
B/W Paper (anti shudder) 30824AM
Exedy DAG94810
Raybestos Paper R505705, H/E R502650, Stage 1 R600240 & Blue plate R577590,
I am curious, what's your opinion on the best friction for that area and why?
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Joined: Mar 2023
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From: BERWICK PA
I generally use the carbon frictions by alto, But honestly since these are always applied in forward gears I do not think IMO it really matters, The only way these will burn is if you get a low-pressure situation or high revving in neutral. They are static through all the gears so should never get hot , of course from lay friction idling and such over time they will wear away but that would be true of any friction material.
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Likes: 490
From: Roxana, IL
I generally use the carbon frictions by alto, But honestly since these are always applied in forward gears I do not think IMO it really matters, The only way these will burn is if you get a low-pressure situation or high revving in neutral. They are static through all the gears so should never get hot , of course from lay friction idling and such over time they will wear away but that would be true of any friction material.
It is funny how when the 700R4 first came out they were taking out the forward friction teeth. I remember 2 neutrals M3, M2 or M1 would apply the forwards with the overruns and it would go. 3 nuetrals was a missing sun gear LOL
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Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 1,159
From: BERWICK PA
Thank you Frank, those thoughts mimic mine in another conversation. I just thought I would post it here and see what other peoples opinion was...
It is funny how when the 700R4 first came out they were taking out the forward friction teeth. I remember 2 neutrals M3, M2 or M1 would apply the forwards with the overruns and it would go. 3 nuetrals was a missing sun gear LOL
It is funny how when the 700R4 first came out they were taking out the forward friction teeth. I remember 2 neutrals M3, M2 or M1 would apply the forwards with the overruns and it would go. 3 nuetrals was a missing sun gear LOL
Also looked at turning the reverse input drum into 3rd gear but I do not think the aluminum spines on the input drum would fair well with constant shifting.
As for the 700r4 I think that is why they added the forward accumulator at least some of the reason. The early ones tended to be quite harsh engaging.
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
