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So I recently had a ls3 built with a TSP stage 2 cam. On the Texas speed website it recommended a 2600+ stall and my builder said I should go with a 2800. I’ll be running a 4l60e. The gears I’m contemplating using are 3.42, 3.55 or 3.73. Still trying to figure that part out. Is 2800 a good way to go? I’m not building a race car. Just a street car that I can get on and still enjoy. Thanks in advance
IMO depends on what you are shooting for 2800 would be min, I run a 2800 FTI triple disk in my car but it is geared 3.08 and is very livable and rips the tires at launch Of course if you going up to 373 then more stall would still be streetable with 373 or 4.11 I would go as mentioned 3600 . But again, depends on your goals, If its all about launch with streetability secondary GO HIGH in my case I wanted a good compromise so I kept my 3.08 gears and went 2800 and can still pull off 17 mpg in town and 23 mpg highway with 4400 lb stroked 383 lt1 cam heads full weight Impala making around 500 rwhp not spectacular by today's standards but fun to drive and for me because I do like driving it, I compromised to get good drivability on the street.
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As in post #2, 3600 minimum from a reputable source. Yank, FTI, CircleD. No TCI, B&M,
And don't even contemplate buying a $400-500 converter, you want to be in the range of 800-900. Buy inexpensive and never be satisfied until you buy another one.
3.42s' and a Yank (or equivalent) 3600.
Rated stall rpm can also be called 'flash' rpm, where the rpm will immediately jump to when power is applied. Comparing the 2800 (165 horsepower) to the 3600 (205 horsepower), why waste time climbing thru the lower hp part of the powerband.
Just curious if I go to a higher stall like 3600 will it cause any issues? Like for example if I’m stopped will the car be wanting to “push through” a stop sign or light? So will it cause the car to want to lurch forward? I have no knowledge of this stuff obviously so I’m just going on what’s been told to me
As in post #2, 3600 minimum from a reputable source. Yank, FTI, CircleD. No TCI, B&M,
And don't even contemplate buying a $400-500 converter, you want to be in the range of 800-900. Buy inexpensive and never be satisfied until you buy another one.
3.42s' and a Yank (or equivalent) 3600.
Rated stall rpm can also be called 'flash' rpm, where the rpm will immediately jump to when power is applied. Comparing the 2800 (165 horsepower) to the 3600 (205 horsepower), why waste time climbing thru the lower hp part of the powerband.
Excellent post, I agree. 3600 minimum for that setup, 3.42/3.55 gearing depending on which axle you install.
So I recently had a ls3 built with a TSP stage 2 cam. On the Texas speed website it recommended a 2600+ stall and my builder said I should go with a 2800.
The 2600+ and 2800 recommendations were to get away from the factory's 1800 stall, and actually those are minimum recommendations. A cammed engine will 'surge' at a stop because the convertor is too tight down low and because a cammed engine is going to be very poor on low end torque in the idle rpm zone.
I've been a convertor person since the 60s', had a 65 Skylark GS, with a 'switch pitch' convertor. What the convertor stalled at was electronically controlled/actuated. 1200 low stall, 3000 high stall controlled by a switch on the throttle linkage. 1200 normal and 3000 at wide open throttle. I added some switches in the circuit so I could control which convertor stall I wanted. 1200 may seem low but Buicks had huge amounts of low end torque.
I'm currently 4.56 gears and Yank SS3600 in the 98Z. On trips to Florida the 4.56s' give 21.5mpg where the 3.23s' gave 24.5. A great trade-off, lose 3mpg to get 40% increase in torque to the tires. Freeway rpms are 2500 at 60mph and 3000 at 72mph. Once,on the way back to Ohio in S.C on I26, hooked up with a fast moving group of cars and was in cruise control at 4000 rpm for about an hour. Engine is stock and currently at about 190,000 miles.
Yes, follow @FirstYrLS1Z's advice precisely! You will be super happy with any of his brand name converters and will find them perfectly streetable.
Like many newbies, I learned about quality converters the hard (wasted money) way.
I first bought a 3600 TCI converter. The car had little acceleration under 3000 RPM; in other words to even mildly accelerate, the engine had to go past 3000 RPM, which made a lot of noise.
Soon thereafter I bought a Yank 3600 and it was night and day difference and improvement. I currently have a CircleD 3600 Triple-Disk; it drives just like the Yank (but I can keep it locked at WOT).
With both the Yank and the CircleD, I can accelerate briskly while keeping the revs under 2500 RPM!
As mentioned, the stop light "creep" is less with a high stall converter. This is important with any cam'ed engine as you will have to set a higher idle RPM.
And DO NOT right off order a convertor. Contact the manufacturer (phone/e-mail/text) and discuss your mods/intended mods, & vehicle uses and see what they recommend.
Last edited by FirstYrLS1Z; May 9, 2023 at 07:13 AM.
So I recently had a ls3 built with a TSP stage 2 cam. On the Texas speed website it recommended a 2600+ stall and my builder said I should go with a 2800. I’ll be running a 4l60e. The gears I’m contemplating using are 3.42, 3.55 or 3.73. Still trying to figure that part out. Is 2800 a good way to go? I’m not building a race car. Just a street car that I can get on and still enjoy. Thanks in advance
Straight from TSP website on their LS3 stage 2 N/A camshaft. "The 229/244 camshaft is a great mid-duration camshaft for power applications from 3000 RPM+" this implies that their 2600+ stall it going to be a little short on the stall. My opinion is your going to need a 3000-3400 stall for that. Nothing like spending $$ on a converter and having a flat spot.
A 3600 minimum from a reputable source such as Yank, FTI, CircleD, YES. But no TCI, B&M, or Boss Hog, too much slippage and inefficient.
AND it'll also help you in the turbo efficiency range,
3.73s are ideal, only problem I could see is obtaining traction.
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Stall converter 
