Build pics level 2 heavy duty
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From: BERWICK PA
Build pics level 2 heavy duty 
CUSTOM TOP PLATE I MAKE IN LATHE
BETTER THAN SONAX LONER STIFFER SPRINGS LESS PRONE TO HEAT DAMAGE
NOTE HOW RIDGE ACTS TO HELP REATIN CLIP
TH350 STATOR BUSHING
OVERUN MOD NEW PLATE
MODIFIED QUICKER 2-3 SHIFT VALVE AND SPRING
NEW PAN ALL UNITS ECEPT STOCK OR LOW BUDGET BUILDS
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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great pics ! so what springs do you use at the top of the 3-4 ? and does the shift valve need a spring on the end ?
seems all the builders use the ...level XXXX it their description of what they build....what describer do you use in your builds and what do they encompass ?
seems all the builders use the ...level XXXX it their description of what they build....what describer do you use in your builds and what do they encompass ?
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From: BERWICK PA
great pics ! so what springs do you use at the top of the 3-4 ? and does the shift valve need a spring on the end ?
seems all the builders use the ...level XXXX it their description of what they build....what describer do you use in your builds and what do they encompass ?
seems all the builders use the ...level XXXX it their description of what they build....what describer do you use in your builds and what do they encompass ?
The springs commonly available actually HILLMAN 540006 Perfect snap in fit to replace stock springs with higher spring rate and a little taller and stiffer but stand heat really well. I have seen these where the EPC/PCS has failed and the 3-4 clutch cook. They will be black but springy as ever. I found them years back looking for an easy readily available replacement for the stock springs did some Test and been using them ever since.
The spring on the 2-3 valve first came up with it years ago noted very noticeable change rate from 2-3 solenoid off to actual change on Dyno though the dyno did not have an actual way to make a measurement and in my own car which i have the best knowledge of my 2-3 shift time data logged with it at WOT is .200ms quicker than my 1-2 command to actual shift, this is opposite to what would normally be expected. With these mods 3-4 failures for me in these units became virtually nonexistent without some outside issue like PCS failure or other pressure related failure.
Beyond that the photos are mostly self-explanatory other than I do make the the top plate for the 3-4 using a stock thick plate machining it like this makes more room in that pack without hurting the strength of the plate avoiding warpage Then I use the alto power pack 9 friction with it but change out the ultra thin steels it comes with for the next thickness up I think .073 I would have to check but as you can see they are Thicker than the friction plates.
All my builds except for what I call the budget build come with a new pan as it makes little sense to buy a used pan and paint it all in having like 20 dollars in it when for 20 more you can get a new heavy duty stock style pan from Dorman with a removable drain plug.
And all my builds again with exception of what i call the budget build come with a NEW Reverse input drum. Budget gets a machined one on lathe.
This build has all the following-
1-CARBON FRICTIONS
2-NEW STEELS
3- NEW SHIFT SOLINOIDS
4-NEW PCS
5- NEW HARNESS
6-RAYBESTOR PRO SERIES WIDE BAND
7- NEW REVERSE INPUT DRUM
8-BORG 29 ELEMENT INPUT SPRAG
9--NEW BORG ROLLER CLUCTH LR
10-BEAST REAL BEAST SUNSHELL
11-.500 BOOST VALVE
12-NEW BUSHINGS AND EXTRAS ADDED A COUPLE SPOTS
13-NEW SEALS RINGS ETC
14 -CORVETTE SERVO WITH NEW PIN
15 DUAL PISTON OVERDIVE SERVO OR SUPERIOR SERVO DEPENDING ON AVAILABILITY. I DO NOT HAVE A PREFERENCE THOUGH I DO TRY AND STAY WITH THE SONNAX DUAL SERVO IN TOWING APLLICATIONS LIKE THIS ONE WILL BE.AND AFTER LOOKING AT RESULTS OVER YEARS STILL PREFER THE TEFLON RINGS ON THE SECOND OVER D RINGS. SQUARE RINGS ETC I HAVE SEEN.
16-SOMETHING I CALL THE FULL TIME OVERUN MOD I CAME UP WITH MANY YEARS AGO WHICH KEEPS THE OVERUN CLUTCH ON IN ALL GEARS EXCEPT 4TH EVEN IN D 4 POSITION THIS ELIMINATES SPRAG ROLL (Others have also come up with various ways to do this I have my own method) It is also shown in photos.
Sorry for the caps lock but not going to retype all of that I was not watching and didn't realize they were on, But this highlights the build. I have additional things I do also mod wise but this covers most of the main items the others are about hydraulic integrity.
For anyone interested this build runs about 2600 shipped to your door 48 states no core required, for 2007 up add 200 cores cost more, or bring yours to me in Berwick PA and save 100s on any year.
Frank
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Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; Sep 4, 2023 at 08:59 PM.
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From: BERWICK PA
MEDIA (SODA) As its water soluble don't care for sand, nuts, glass as the get embedded and stuck in things but also in addition paint since being in the north the salt so badly discolors the aluminum while smooth after blasting, they are still rather ugly, So they get a light coating of VHT exhaust hi temp enamel. I first heat the case to 200f to get any moisture out then let it cool to about 120f then paint then heat back up to 180f makes the finish fast and firm.
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From: Israel
Watching mr. Frank build a tranny is like watching god creating earth. This is so epic and rare moment.
Thank you for the tip on the return springs in the 3/4 drum.
If i was in the US, i would def get a unit from you my man but the problem is where i live, the shipping will cost 3x more than the tranny itself and customs payment around 1000$
So lucky people who can order from you who lives in the US / Canada.
1. I noticed your checkballs are plugged. The ones that 2 together. Do you mind describing what it does, if its not a secret?
Thanks!
2. When upgrading the servo and drilling the 3rd feed to like 0.135", I always hear a clunk in part throttle only when 3rd engages. Like from 2nd to 3rd there is a clunk, or in a downshift from 4th to 3rd. How you get rid of that?
3. Do you use 0.020" clutch clearance or 0.030'?
Anyways, there are legends about Performabuilt's unique Valve body mods and a big shadow on how its done. It's good to know that mr Frank came with all of this upgrades alone.
Good luck in what you do my man!
Thank you for the tip on the return springs in the 3/4 drum.
If i was in the US, i would def get a unit from you my man but the problem is where i live, the shipping will cost 3x more than the tranny itself and customs payment around 1000$
So lucky people who can order from you who lives in the US / Canada.1. I noticed your checkballs are plugged. The ones that 2 together. Do you mind describing what it does, if its not a secret?
Thanks!2. When upgrading the servo and drilling the 3rd feed to like 0.135", I always hear a clunk in part throttle only when 3rd engages. Like from 2nd to 3rd there is a clunk, or in a downshift from 4th to 3rd. How you get rid of that?
3. Do you use 0.020" clutch clearance or 0.030'?
Anyways, there are legends about Performabuilt's unique Valve body mods and a big shadow on how its done. It's good to know that mr Frank came with all of this upgrades alone.
Good luck in what you do my man!
Last edited by Edward Stark; Sep 5, 2023 at 05:39 PM.
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From: BERWICK PA
1-Its part of what I call the overrun mod, it keeps the overrun clutch on in all gears except 4h even when in the OD position on shifter, This helps support the input sprag.
2-Never really feel a clucnk maybe a hold back as it downshifts to 3 from 4 but their is a notable downshift feel on the 3-2 many mistake for the 2-1 but 2-1 would only happen if I had the low/rev clutch mod added Which in this build I do not. A little semi clunky feel on the light throttle 2-3 with wide bands large servos is just part of a performance unit if you look at tuning even GM did a pressure pull back to try and quell that.
3- My dry clearance is .020 before adding the return springs which generally adds about another .010 so final is arround .030 and will generally as I noted for years with the Dyno will open up another .010 arround after a few max line applies.so ultimately you end up arround .040
4-My valve bodies have always been unique in the way I accomplish things compared to others and will continue to be as I AM ALWAYS INTERESTED in MAKING THE UNITS BETTER and introducing new and better units .
Thanks Frank
2-Never really feel a clucnk maybe a hold back as it downshifts to 3 from 4 but their is a notable downshift feel on the 3-2 many mistake for the 2-1 but 2-1 would only happen if I had the low/rev clutch mod added Which in this build I do not. A little semi clunky feel on the light throttle 2-3 with wide bands large servos is just part of a performance unit if you look at tuning even GM did a pressure pull back to try and quell that.
3- My dry clearance is .020 before adding the return springs which generally adds about another .010 so final is arround .030 and will generally as I noted for years with the Dyno will open up another .010 arround after a few max line applies.so ultimately you end up arround .040
4-My valve bodies have always been unique in the way I accomplish things compared to others and will continue to be as I AM ALWAYS INTERESTED in MAKING THE UNITS BETTER and introducing new and better units .
Thanks Frank
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From: BERWICK PA
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From: BERWICK PA
I think it was more about the springs are usually trashed by the time of a rebuild and used to be hard to get. Also the stock springs are virtually useless for anything but a stock layout and stack height of clutches they are just too short. Sonnax makes some longer than stock and they are fine a little pricey for what they are, These I have work perfectly better IMO and are cheap and easy to get at 1 dollar each at any ace hardware.
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From: BERWICK PA
Note this group of pics was not done just for this post, every unit I do gets a full pictorial for each customer this is just one group of them.
I feel this helps build Trust and transparency with the customer, they see and know exactly what they are getting.
I feel this helps build Trust and transparency with the customer, they see and know exactly what they are getting.
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There is AFL pressure on this end of the valve where you've added a spring
Appears the end of the valve has been turned a wee bit to give a stub to center the spring on?
I've found that just a proper AFL with increased base seems to work well and is less trouble than the spring.
Care to elaborate on your thought process here
Appears the end of the valve has been turned a wee bit to give a stub to center the spring on?
I've found that just a proper AFL with increased base seems to work well and is less trouble than the spring.
Care to elaborate on your thought process here
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From: BERWICK PA
There is AFL pressure on this end of the valve where you've added a spring
Appears the end of the valve has been turned a wee bit to give a stub to center the spring on?
I've found that just a proper AFL with increased base seems to work well and is less trouble than the spring.
Care to elaborate on your thought process here
Appears the end of the valve has been turned a wee bit to give a stub to center the spring on?
I've found that just a proper AFL with increased base seems to work well and is less trouble than the spring.
Care to elaborate on your thought process here
And yes I machine the valve to accommodate it, the little spring is actually pretty stiff. So far I only have data log stuff to verify this. Someday I would love to get it on a more advanced real dyno to see a before after measurement. I do know since it's been in use in the levels 3 and black edition for years now at my former work it caused no issue and the numbers show a lower 3-4 failure rate anything to make these come on faster as they do not like heat so moving that valve quicker has to be a plus. I also experimented with enlarging the orifice hole in the solenoid but was not confident enough to ever try to put in service but it did function ok. In a couple test on the dyno.
I am sure several methods could be used to accomplish the end goal including restricting the oil to the solenoid for quicker exhaust though I worried this might affect kickdown time more but the modified valve and spring is where I landed.
The Initial goal was to quicken the 2-3 shift time without overly enlarging the feed and changing the release apply dynamics of the band and 3-4 clutch. Ultimately.
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Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; Sep 6, 2023 at 11:54 AM.
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Ever had issues with upsetting the valve balance?
Too much spring on that end and/or a leaky valve/solenoid could lead to the valve not being able to downshift
Also, the improvement here would be the time between a solenoid OFF command and the actual valve movement, it won't affect the physical time between valve motion and the shift happenings. The orifice sizing on the 3/4 clutch feed and the 3rd accum will still determine the shift characteristics.
I've experimented with a spring on the end (I drilled the valve and used an accumulator spring in the pocket)
And have experimented with solenoid orifice sizing in the solenoid itself.
Never noticed anything significant enough to continue it, but it's neat to hear someone else having different results with similar experiement!
Sounds like you have lots of units out there with no ill effects, so cheers to that
Experiment with the land width on the middle small land and let me know what you find
That has some interesting results as well.
Too much spring on that end and/or a leaky valve/solenoid could lead to the valve not being able to downshift
Also, the improvement here would be the time between a solenoid OFF command and the actual valve movement, it won't affect the physical time between valve motion and the shift happenings. The orifice sizing on the 3/4 clutch feed and the 3rd accum will still determine the shift characteristics.
I've experimented with a spring on the end (I drilled the valve and used an accumulator spring in the pocket)
And have experimented with solenoid orifice sizing in the solenoid itself.
Never noticed anything significant enough to continue it, but it's neat to hear someone else having different results with similar experiement!
Sounds like you have lots of units out there with no ill effects, so cheers to that
Experiment with the land width on the middle small land and let me know what you find
That has some interesting results as well. Thread Starter
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From: BERWICK PA
Ever had issues with upsetting the valve balance?
Too much spring on that end and/or a leaky valve/solenoid could lead to the valve not being able to downshift
Also, the improvement here would be the time between a solenoid OFF command and the actual valve movement, it won't affect the physical time between valve motion and the shift happenings. The orifice sizing on the 3/4 clutch feed and the 3rd accum will still determine the shift characteristics.
I've experimented with a spring on the end (I drilled the valve and used an accumulator spring in the pocket)
And have experimented with solenoid orifice sizing in the solenoid itself.
Never noticed anything significant enough to continue it, but it's neat to hear someone else having different results with similar experiement!
Sounds like you have lots of units out there with no ill effects, so cheers to that
Experiment with the land width on the middle small land and let me know what you find That has some interesting results as well.
Too much spring on that end and/or a leaky valve/solenoid could lead to the valve not being able to downshift
Also, the improvement here would be the time between a solenoid OFF command and the actual valve movement, it won't affect the physical time between valve motion and the shift happenings. The orifice sizing on the 3/4 clutch feed and the 3rd accum will still determine the shift characteristics.
I've experimented with a spring on the end (I drilled the valve and used an accumulator spring in the pocket)
And have experimented with solenoid orifice sizing in the solenoid itself.
Never noticed anything significant enough to continue it, but it's neat to hear someone else having different results with similar experiement!
Sounds like you have lots of units out there with no ill effects, so cheers to that
Experiment with the land width on the middle small land and let me know what you find That has some interesting results as well.
Unfortunately, at least for now no DYNO to test things and no lift to use my car for it. I do have a dyno plan in the works with twin DC motors and variable speed 500 to 5000 rpm and other functions but time and money will determine when that happens. Of course, a real Dyno is cost prohibitive in my position. So for now other than things I know will work no experimentation
Though I do think room for more always exists and I do like seeing the various different ways people get to the same results.Primarily My task back then was to improve the unit while spending none or as little money as possible while simultaneously keep up with and helping keeping up with customer demand by building. When things finally came to a point that was not necessary it was basically decided my knowledge. loyalty, contribution without that did not have significant enough value to justify my earnings. But enough of that still a bit of a sore spot but it is as it is.
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I think it was more about the springs are usually trashed by the time of a rebuild and used to be hard to get. Also the stock springs are virtually useless for anything but a stock layout and stack height of clutches they are just too short. Sonnax makes some longer than stock and they are fine a little pricey for what they are, These I have work perfectly better IMO and are cheap and easy to get at 1 dollar each at any ace hardware.
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From: BERWICK PA
Hillman 540006 #2 spring 1-1/4 l 7.32 dia. .032 wire gauge
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