700R4 I am starting on. Yes, Its painted and some don't like that but here is the reality of the great northern USA salt badly discolors aluminum even after soda blasting which I do to every case as the exterior areas look bad with pits and such particularly with older units like the 700-R4. The case is cleaned, Soda blasted no nuts or sand or silicone dioxide or glass as those all can and do get wedged into the aluminum with the potential to move and get in some orifice or valve whereas Soda is water soluble so washes right away, Then the case is heated to 200f and blown our every hole and cervices just in case. Then when Temp drops to about 120f is painted then reheated back to near 200f then allowed to cool. Makes a hard impervious to chemicals finish to protect the case from further erosion from the elements and looks very nice, The paint used is called HAMMERED FORGE. In my test once fully cured after about 24 hours withstands using a torch to heat the metal to remove broken bolts as sometime you must deal with due to corrosion at linkage mounts and such unscathed for those that worry about fire potential.

 

Because the Valve-Bodies (and more Importantly, the 1-2 TV Valves, 2-3 TV Valves, and 3-4 TV Valves that dictate Up and Down Shift RPM) are getting difficult to find...
And yes Governors/ Spring and Weight Sets are available for WOT RPM Shift Speed Changes...

I was mostly offering THM700-R4 Transmissions as a Forward Manual Valve-Body.


You could try offering a Forward Manual Valve-Body, and not have to worry about the Shift-Points/ RPM.

 

have you ever tried Vapor Honing process on cases?

 

No but looks interesting for possible future investment .
Frank

 

What's the turnaround time on a stage 2? I thought about just having mine rebuilt but probably wouldn't be much benefit with the cost to ship there and back

 

about two weeks or less assuming 06 back 07 n up have to check core availability

 

Thanks Frank for giving me paint info I asked privately.

Mark

 

You are welcome, it gives a very nice look and when applied as I described very very durable.
Frank.

 

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=frankscustomtransmissions&set=a.294035553613754

 

. Just

Honestly when someone wants FWD MANUAL VB I try to steer them to some version of the 60E or 80E as I can at least keep pressure control to an extent with transgos Modulator. Just never cared much for any trans being stuck at max line all the time unless purely for drag racing.

 

yes, its a pain if the car goes sideways during a shift when making a turn.

 

Yes not to mention the excessive stress on hard parts

 

 

Frank, did you drill those holes in the 3-4 steels or were you able to source them that way?

 

O...! He drilled them!

Very tedious and very time consuming!

But that is Frank!
Very hard working, and striving to provide the best product that he can!

Honestly after getting to know Frank recently, He is a stand up Guy!
Anyone would be in Great Hands with him!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbond105

Frank, did you drill those holes in the 3-4 steels or were you able to source them that way?

I did them all and it is a 5 step process first drill. then chamfer each side, then polish the steel with a fine pad just to make sure no burs, then clean well blowing out each hole.
Now the WHY a few years ago I experimented with this, The idea trap fluid in the holes to aid in cooling. Well did a number of them . And eventually a couple did come back as warranties nothing to do with the holes but rather pressure related failues. Two as I remember were wrong filter installed and had fallen out. Guess what I found? Now bear in mind these are relatively thin steels .072 but even though due to the pressure issue the band and frictions were badly burned the steels while yes they still showed signs of heat were all perfectly flat every time. No warpage or High spots at all, which with badly burned frictions was pretty amazing at least to me and showed the holes did the job intended. The steels showed only minimal signs of heat and were flat, So it was then incorporated into the Highest level unit only because well it is time consuming, I however now incorporate it into my stage 2=3 and max units.
Also note the springs in the cages, Those are actually from ACE HARDWARE and they in fact are longer and stiffer ratios than the stock springs, But again I discovered them many years back when we were unable to source the stock type. Originally as a stop gap use but found one they actually fit the cages better than stock and do not require the little tips be in tact as the fit firmly in the roll area and in cases where they did get hot even though blackened badly, they retained their spring and did not collapse like the stock ones. Just thought that would be of interest also..

 

Thanks for the explanation, Frank. It looks like the holes are around an 1/8"?

 

Thanks Very much and I do my best. It is one of the things I do like about being on my own now, I am not pushed or distracted, So I can take the time to make sure everything is just perfect and do the little extras. Typically start to finish between tearing down, cleanings, soda blasting, washing again, painting, (The painting process alone involves heating case to 200f allowing to cool to 120f then painting then allowing to cool to room temp then reheating to 160f makes a very solid appliance like finish that is flame proof and I mean will withstand a torch applied long enough to heat and remove a broken bolt unscathed and impervious to chemicals even paint remover resistant ) Sorry for the side track but all in takes me between 2 and 3 days to complete one alone.
And as I have gotten to know you I truly appreciate you and your contributions to this forum and vast knowledge.

 

what material (alloy) ae the steels made from?

 

Hmm I have no idea they are alto steels I imagine they might have that spec on their site perhaps? Though I have used Raybestos also, Never gave much thought to the alloy,