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In my own car I left the lockup settings pretty much stock other than a mod I do to slightly increase apply pressure across the board but kept PWM.
I have a triple disc FTI with PWM still active and it locks at pretty low speeds in 3rd and 4th, but with no bucking, Course I also raise the PT shifts by 20 percent and it all feels nice overall.
I do have it set to lock solid at 4000 rpm at WOT in second third and fourth as on the DYNO it gained 30ft lbs torque doing it that way.
Frank
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
This falsehood of a larger stall Convertor making a car not drive well is way over played. I have a 4000lb vehicle with a 3800 Convertors and it drives as good or better than stock.
putting under 3000 stall in a 3200lb vehicle is a waste of time and money. I’d put at the very least, on the cheap end, an FTI 3200 you can get from summit racing or on the higher end put a yank 3800. You have to understand that it’s going to stall less and move from a standstill much easier at 3200lbs vs the higher average vehicle weight.
This falsehood of a larger stall Convertor making a car not drive well is way over played. I have a 4000lb vehicle with a 3800 Convertors and it drives as good or better than stock.
putting under 3000 stall in a 3200lb vehicle is a waste of time and money. I’d put at the very least, on the cheap end, an FTI 3200 you can get from summit racing or on the higher end put a yank 3800. You have to understand that it’s going to stall less and move from a standstill much easier at 3200lbs vs the higher average vehicle weight.
Yes my cars a heavy bastard, More so with me in it LOL . I will say at 25k miles I am happy with my FTI triple disc .
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
To OP, don't know your location but, find someone with a convertor and ask for/get a ride to sense how it feels. Watch throttle pedal movement, sense movement/acceleration of car.
I have a Yank SS3600, sometimes running 3.23s, sometimes 4.56s'. I've given rides and also let them drive, in city traffic, to experience the feel of a good stall. Their fear of a high stall number changed/eliminated afterwards and they ended up getting the more expensive higher quality stall. The fear of a high number is holding you back. Above example to show horsepowers at rpms.
Rated stall rpm can also be called 'flash' rpm, where the rpm will immediately jump to when power is applied. Comparing the 2800 (165 horsepower) to the 3600 (205 horsepower), why waste time climbing thru the lower hp part of the powerband.
what stall speed/size would produce "shift extentions" (is that how you call it?) of 1500 rpm? e.g. 2-3 shift at 6500 and ending up at 5000 instead of theoretical 4000 and real 4300 (with stock converter). how might that 1500 change for the 1-2 shift?
what stall speed/size would produce "shift extentions" (is that how you call it?) of 1500 rpm? e.g. 2-3 shift at 6500 and ending up at 5000 instead of theoretical 4000 and real 4300 (with stock converter). how might that 1500 change for the 1-2 shift?
I may be wrong but I believe a tighter converter will give more of a shift extension then a loose converter
This falsehood of a larger stall Convertor making a car not drive well is way over played. I have a 4000lb vehicle with a 3800 Convertors and it drives as good or better than stock....
putting under 3000 stall in a 3200lb vehicle is a waste of time and money. I’d put at the very least, on the cheap end, an FTI 3200 you can get from summit racing or on the higher end put a yank 3800. You have to understand that it’s going to stall less and move from a standstill much easier at 3200lbs vs the higher average vehicle weight.
The reputation of larger stall converters not making a car drive well is due to cheap converters like the TCI!
As a newbie/dummy years ago, I first installed a TCI 3600 on my LS2 car and on retrospect it drove poorly in routine city driving, requiring 3000+ engine RPM to get the car moving briskly. In contrast my next Yank 3600 would accelerate briskly while keeping RPM under 2200.
Cheap converters, including the cheap TCI are rebuilt GM 4 and 6 cylinder converters with a ring welded on to fit V8 flexplates. They should all be recycled and melted down to make something useful like lawn chairs.
I am happy with my FTI 2800 triple disc, My cam lakes power from 1500 to 5500 rpm the 2800 puts me dead in the middle of that at launch with 383 CID, Sill feels fine even with 3.08 gears in a 4400 lb impala ss with my fat self add to that around town and will turn p275/40/r17 s loose at 25 to 30 mph. Each person of course has their own preferences but thus far I am pleased with my choice, now if I was geared lower, I might have different perspective but I also like the under 2000 RPM at 70mph cruising. And of course My original plan was in time to travel with the car pulling a medium sized camper trailer (After all the 94 to 96 impala ss is basically a 1500 series truck with a car body and better brakes, corvette engine) so it was all built arround lower end torque but alas those plans were changed for me. But still happy with the way it runs drives and goes.
Soon to get another tune with new heads and intake looking forward to that, right now still tuned for the stock heads, stock exhaust and intake mostly by me and my nose and ear not a real tune.
You would be amazed how hard it is to get anyone to tune an OBD1 car now days. tuners who will are rare.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
I have a 4L60E/ Yank 3200 billet converter combo in my 80 Camaro. LS3 with a mild cam and 3.73 gears. Drives like a stocker until you punch it. The tune is set up so the trans doesn't shift into 4th or lock up until 50 mph.
This is my third Yank converter and I am totally happy with them.
Engine Displacement, Dynamic Compression Ratio, Camshaft, Peak Tq and Hp RPM, Vehicle Weight, and Gearing all Factor in.
Most of the guys here are only accustomed to one type of Vehicle, Engine Platform, and Power Band...
My Father was into Big Cubic Inch Big Block Buick Engines and GM A-Bodies: Buick Gran Sport (like a Chevelle or GTO).
Heavier Car, Peak Torque by 2,400 RPM, Peak HP by 5,000 RPM...
A 2,000 RPM Converter is going to be perfect here, it will probably behave like a 2,500 RPM Unit will all the Engine Torque Produced.
These were 800 HP, 700 Ft/ Lbs Engines
I do like the LS Platform among many others...
But I typically build a longer rod (6.350" - 6.460") shorter stroke (3.75"), larger Bore (4.125") 400" that operates in the 9,000+ RPM Range...
Here I may use a 6,000 RPM Converter.
I’d definitely suggest saving a little extra to buy a high quality converter. I personally use FTI but I’ve heard good things about circle d as well.
don’t be afraid of a high stall either.
my wagon is full weight, probably 4000+ lb, 2.73 gear with a th400. I can drive around at low throttle and it will accelerate from a stop and cruise happily with 4-5% slip without issue. I cruise around town below 2400 rpm. When I go wot it flashes up around 5000 rpm and rolls out great.
