That was something I didn't realize until recently.

 

Another easy trick is block the 4th feed to the 4th accum then leave out the accum piston, This will firm 4th just a little but also via torque signal oil will provide full time lube via the orice cup plug in the bore to the rear planet

 

Another is using a 4l80e or 400 int servo spring with any of the larger servos corvette or bigger and in particular with D-RINGS (I still have a preference for teflon seals myself here) and most certainly with the pancake type servos with no accumulation (front rear area size differential) such as the superior servo in place of the stock servo return spring between case and servo, This will provide a quicker release when coming to a stop on the 2-1 shift and with the pancake style servos release on the 3-2 downshift helping to keep from being as clunky feeling..

 

As far as pumps go would you use a 10 vane or 13 vane rotor?

 

I honestly have no preference but generally use the 13v as it is what comes in late pumps. Either will do the job.

 

I use 10 vane in all my performance builds
I had a run of 13v break a few years back, and since have been gunshy to go back to them.
10v for high rpm seems to have more stable pressure as well.

 

In units that will get raced where we are really turning up the line pressure, I'll add .100 worth of shim to the pressure pop-off ball and spring in the pump. It can become partially unseated during high pressure operation and this helps keep it seated.

 

For Really high rpm use, or more importantly for transbrake use. It's important to keep the rev piston from spinning inside the drum. When it spins it can cause all kinds of issues with the springs and the retaining ring.
Some like to just tack weld the snap ring for the spring retainer which I don't love or hate, but it's not fixing the real issue.
To really fix the issue, I will attach a rev steel to the piston. This keeps the piston from spinning in the bore

 

It has been mentioned in other threads, but we can call it out here too.
To control the 2-3 shift timing more precisely, you can block #2 check ball hole, omit the ball, and use just the orifice there to tailor the band release timing so you don't have a flare. Be a bit cautious doing this as going too far with the orifice can cause the band to release too late. Which you'll likely never notice in shift feel...but you will notice it in band wear.
Because what happens is the trans will shift 1-2-4-3

4 happens when the 3/4 clutch is applied but the orifice for band release is too small and the band hasn't released yet.
Band on & 3/4 clutch on=4th
Then the band will finally release and you'll still remain in 3rd
Because you'll be expecting the shift drop to the converter flash point, you probably won't see this in rpm graph, and from "seat of the pants" it will just feel a bit like tq mgmt on the shift. it's quick. But it's not great because it can slip the band a bit and cause issue.

 

Interesting. Thats a pretty hefty little spring to begin with.....

 

Good Info MaroonmonsterLS1

 

As always....

 

When you say high line pressure is that 230ish or are you going higher?

 

230 is not uncommon with performance 4l60e

 

It's funny how sometimes different situations can result in the same solution.

So while experimenting with the Pumps Line-Pressure limitations on the Run-Stand...
I found that the Pressure relief was opening often.

(Actually Pumps front different Transmissions randomly opened the Pressure relief at different Pressures. Anywhere from 270 - 350 Psi).

Anyway, as the Pressure relief was opening often...
I found that the Springs would often break a Coil or Two off at the Roll-Pin/ Pin-Retainer.

So I started implementing a Thick Hardened Steel Washer on top of a Good Spring and under the Pin-Retainer.

 

I personally never use a 13-Vane unless the mating engine is a Diesel.

I use a a 10-Vane Normally.

and I use a 7-Vane for High RPM/ Very High Performance.

 

I wasn't aware of a 7 vane. 700r4?

 

Vor...did I hear you recommend a billet vane for the pump? ...for either 10 or 13 ?

 

Only regarding a 7-Vane Rotor.

...There are NO New 7-Vane Rotors, and finding a good one in a Core is now near impossible.

So Yes for that reason, I can have Billet 7-Vane Rotors made.

 

It also provides a tiny bit of cushion for a situation of Torque-Converter Installation Depth Error.

AND THIS CAN ONLY BE A VERY SMALL DEPTH ERROR!

...Otherwise the usually Torque-Converter Installation Error will Break Pump Parts no matter what!