I'm not sure if this is the correct place, but the mods can move it if necessary. Anyway, I am in the middle of swapping the 4L80 in my 2000 T-top Camaro SS. The car originally had the 4L60. I wanted to make sure I didn't break it at the drag strip, so I went with the only upgrade available at the time (4L80). The gears in the 4L80 are terrible for drag racing (1st is way too long), and for highway cruising (4th is way too low). The gears cause me to get left behind coming off the line, and burn a lot more fuel while cruising down the highway (I was daily driving it). The 6L80 seemed like a better option for both situations. With companies making swaps easier for us non-engineer folks, now seemed like a good time for a swap. I'll list the parts I have purchased so far, and why. Pics will follow.

Already purchased:
1) Rebuilt 6L80e level-2 (good for 650hp)
---**rebuilt** because you don't want it to break after you install it.
2) 6L80e Trans Cooler Line Adapter Plate
---My Camaro has the push in hard lines that won't fit/connect to the 6L80. You have to use an adapter to connect rubber hoses or braided -AN type lines to the 6L80.
3) Slip Yoke
---The 6L80 is about 2 inches shorter than the 4L80. The original slip yoke was replaced with a Spicer unit when I did the 4L80 swap. The 4L80 yoke has the same splines, but will be too short. Either replace the drive shaft, or replace the slip yoke.
4) TCM/ECM wire harness adapter
---My stock ECM cannot control the 6L80. I ordered a harness from Zero Gravity. It will make the 6L80 work with my stock PCM.
5) torque converter
---the 4L80 converter won't fit the 6L80. I found a used Circle-D converter in good shape.
6) Transmission cross member/torque arm relocation
---The 4L80 tail housing mount sits about 4 inches further aft than the 6L80. So far, no company makes a 6L80 cross member for the Gen-4 F-bodies. I have heard that others have used the stock cross members with very little modification. I bought a used cross member, but it will not fit on my car. I believe it was meant for 93-97 f-bodies. I might try to modify the 4L80 cross member I have. I still have to figure this out. The 4L60 is likely to be closer in length to the 6L80, so the 4L60 cross member should need less modification.
7) Transmission bolts
---I probably could have reused mine. They didn't look very old. If you have the original bolts, just replace them now and avoid a lot of trouble later on.
8) Intake Manifold Gaskets
---You cannot remove the top transmission bolt without removing the intake manifold. If your seals are not fairly new, plan to replace them now.

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Still need to Order:
9) -6 AN to 3/8" hose barb adapters (2ea)
---This connects to the ICT Billet Trans Cooler Line Adapter Plate so you can run hoses to your existing lines.
10) rubber hose, oil resistance (about 6ft should do)
---The transmission lines connect to the driver's side of the 6L80, and passenger's side on 4L80 and 4L60. You will need to "extend" the lines to connect to the stock lines.

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I'll try to make a list of parts and part numbers here:
1) General Motors 6L80e / Part Number ????
2) ICT Billet 6L80e Trans Cooler Line Adapter Plate / Part Number 551121-6AN
3) Sonnax Slip Yoke / Part Number T3-3-551HP
4) Zero Gravity Wire Harness Adapter / Part Number TCM-2650
5) Circle-D 245 mm Single Disc Converter / Part Number 07 11 04 3C
6) UMI Performance Torque Arm Relocation Kits / part Number UPI-2210-R (this looks like the one I got. It does not fit my car. Summit website says it fits 93-97 f-bodies. I need Part Number: UPI-2208-R, for 98-2002 f-bodies).
7) ICT Billet Bell housing Bolts / Part Number: ICB-551652
8) ICT Billet Intake Manifold Gaskets / Part Number: ICB-551281
9)
10)

Here are some pics of the parts:

 

I am just getting into these and i highly suggest a standalone to control the 6L and not a stock tcm for any performance application. With pcms come many inherent problems and the 6L is huge on tuning parameters. I haven't tried the one you have however. Keep us posted.

 

The 6l80e HAS to use the stock TCM
It's a mechatronic setup
The TCM is integral and internal to the transmission/valve body

The TCM2650 is a module that allows the right information from a stock ECU (or even a carbureted engine) to be fed into the 6l80e TCM.
They've been proven to work pretty well

 

The internal one your speaking yes it has to be there but that is the TECM that the standalone must see inside the trans. Standalone takes place of the vehicle side computer not the TECM itself internally. I feel we are talking about the same thing though

 

You suggested a standalone...and he already has one
The TCM2650 is the transmission interface

"standalone" doesn't really apply to this transmission as it has a TCM/TECM/TECHM internally
So nothing is going to stand...alone

The TCM2650 is a controller that works well for this exact type of swap

 

I just got some more parts. I ordered these from Amazon, so it's basically cheap Chinese parts. Let's hope they don't leak.
9) -6 AN to hose barb adapters (90 degrees) x2
10) 3/8" rubber hose
11) ATF (12 quarts)

 

I also want to take a moment to explain one "mod" I had done to my transmission. While I was at the transmission shop, I was explaining my issue with the drive shaft and slip yoke length. To help out, the transmission guy removed the rear tail housing cover, and removed a metal sleeve from the spline shaft. I didn't get a picture, but it looks like it just limits how far a slip yoke could be inserted into the tail housing. By removing the sleeve, my new, longer slip yoke can go in farther, if needed.

I thought this was helpful, because the new Sonnax slip yoke (for the 6L80) is about 2.5" longer than the Spicer slip yoke (on the 4L80). The 6L80 is about 2" shorter than the 4L80, so I only needed a slip yoke to be 2" longer then the Spicer slip yoke. I was worried that the Sonnax slip yoke would be too long, and bottom out in the transmission. That is why the transmission guy removed the sleeve inside the tail housing. I should have plenty of spline engagement, without bottoming out into the transmission. I hope this explanation makes sense. If you take the measurements and do the math, it comes out to about a .5" potential interference fit if you don't remove the sleeve. The other option, would be to cut the slip yoke .5". I don't have a band saw, so I choose the easier and free option.

Here's a pic for reference:
(The metal "sleeve" is already removed here)

 

I just ran into my first major issue on the install. The torque converter is bottomed out against the flywheel, but there is still a gap between the transmission bell housing and engine block. The torque converter is all the way in the transmission. Does this mean I need a different flywheel? I still have the original LS1/4L60 flywheel. It worked just fine on the 4L80.

 

You say the converter is all the way into the trans...how do you know?
Because your flexplate distance should remain the same so I don't see that being the issue

You likely don't actually have the converter seated to full depth

You should be able to measure over 1" (usually 1-1/16") from the bellhousing face to the converter pads. If it's less than that...you'll have the exact issue you're seeing right now

 

Yeah, I spun it back and forth, and could not get it to go in any further. It still only had a 1/2" gap. I just measured again, and it now has a 1-1/16" gap. I swear I have not touched it since I drug it out from under the car. I guess that little slip and fall seated it all the way. It didn't really "fall". It slid backwards onto the jack cylinder, and was leaning against an exhaust pipe. I was able to hold the tail housing with a floor jack, and lower the transmission jack slowly. The transmission was already off the jack pad, so it rolled over onto it's side once it cleared the exhaust. No big crashes this time. I cleaned up the mess, lifted the transmission back onto the transmission jack, and re-positioned everything under the car. I'll probably try to install it again tomorrow. More to come...

 

So, after the converter fully seated its self, I was able to get the transmission in and bolted on. I got all the bolts in and snug. I just have to go back and torque them all. There is about a 1/4" gap between the converter and flywheel now. I can also spin the converter with my finger through the inspection window hole.

The next big task, is to figure out how to install the transmission cross member. I plan to re-use the 4L80 cross member. The 6L80 won't bolt up to it, so I will have to do some modifications. Stay tuned for that.

Here are some updated pics:

 

Ideally a 1/8" Pull-Out from the Pump is where you want to be.

Obtain washers so that the Torque-Converter is 1/8" out of the Pump
(The Range is 1/16" to 3/16").

It is easiest to use Drill-Bits (of know Diameter) between the Flex-Plate and Torque-Converter Mounting-Pads to establish the Gap or Pull-Out.

 

Been following this swap as I think the 6l80 and My Impala would make a great match for summer project even keeping the 3.08 gears. I think its ratios would be ideal and working on some mods for the unit at present to use in the swap.

 

We've been doing quite a few of these Frank
Learned a few do's and don'ts and have a handful of mods
If you want to toss one of these in your car, reach on out I'd be happy to help

 

I have like 12 Junk Cores in GM Plastic Crates that I have been meaning to tear down for scrap...

 

I just think as a boat of a car and in its class estimated 450 to 500 rwhp the six gears would give it a most certain advantage overall while maintaining excellent drivability and the 6l80e with a few mods should handle the car and power levels no issue. So might be a summer project for me I will most certainly get with you.

 

That is my point of view too. The 6L80 offers much better gearing than the 4L80, and it's much stronger than the 4L60. This is the swap we should be doing. 4L60-6L80 is the way to go. So far, I have not had to modify anything on the car to make this 6L80 fit. The tunnel has plenty of room. It's actually a lot easier to get the 6L80 in and out than the 4L80. I have not removed any exhaust parts. I had to loosen the rear exhaust section to remove the drive shaft, but that's just because I couldn't get a wrench or socket on one universal joint bolt. Other than that, it's been fairly easy getting the 6L80 in there.

 

I forgot to post these updates before. The converter bolts are in, and the trans cooler lines/hoses are connected. I'll go back and tidy up the lines and wires later on. I still have some work to do in that area. I marked where the 4L80 crossmember needs to be notched/modified. I was thinking about heating it up and bashing it with a hammer where it's marked. Then, I'll get someone to weld a mounting plate on the forward side that matches the one on the aft side. This just shows how much shorter the 6L80 is. This is why I wanted a 4L60 crossmember. I think the 4L60 crossmember would be a closer fit for the 6L80.

Pics:

trans cooler lines

4L80 crossmember

4L80 crossmember marked for notching

 

Me I am very happy with my 4l60e build and performance but the closer ratios and the much lower first and 2nd I think would be awesome with my 3.08 gears should really wake the car up even more not that its not fun now. But with those ratios i think will give the best of 2 worlds. Launch like your running 4.11s with the highway drivability on the highway of the 3.08s rear seems like a perfect combo and from my reading the new interface from holley is just perfect to connect to my obd1 controlled Impala. I say interface because contrary to what many say it is not a controller,
The Controller is inside the trans (one of the reasons it poses some issues for selling outright and even running on any but a pro dyno it requires a cann bus type interface to receive data like TPS RPM and other inputs unlike previous trans where I have just built a box with swithes and pwm functions to control presure and such and because of the progaming being different for each car rear ratios, tires sixes, shift points and all the ability to program for the particular aplication) . This the Interface system from holley allows. Though I am sure given some time and the holley interface I could probably build something to simulate all these inputs. But In time perhaps. For now no plans to go into building them for sale as all of that IMO would be needed but will rebuild /build them as I gain more knowledge as carry ins from the original vehical and hope to build one for my own car in the summer.

I never got into them in the past because the large amount of time and expense to set up work. test and learn to modify would at that time be seen as too much I am very sure it would take months to work though this type set up in any production type enviroment of dedicated time and resources.

Hell when I started the 700r4 200r4 4l60e and more build back starting in the 80s a shift kit did not even yet exist nor billet servos or beast or anything I had to create it all myself. I even remebe realy bands the anchor pin would tear through the hole on the band I literally made a washer the size of the pin hole bent it to conform and pressed it on the band as a solution lol hey it worked lol.
First billet servo i ever saw for the 200r4 me and my best friend literally made on his dads lathe but it worked really well except it ripped right through the eye hole in the band thus the washer mod lol.

My core guy has plenty of the cores for them and the 6l90 actually I was so lucky to find him as most of the cores i get from him in 60e and 80es literally could be thrown in a car and run. And his prices are about half what I am usd to seeing from core people. Only bad thing he does not deliver so its a 2 hour drive each way but seeing i ussually only need 4 or five a trip that is fine as thus far in my new bussiness adventure most of my work has been carry in builds as no one arround here does them really at least not at a reasonable price.
And I do love doing this from my home garage as no overhead other than taxes I can build the best units I ever have at awesome prices and do more and better for less. Thus why my units can have all new harnesses and solenoids and presure sensors and even new pans in every build I like and enjoy I can do that now, Off subject but I do think it was providence I bought a house zoned bussiness/ residential with the perfect little garage to do what I am doing now. And its nice working with no deadlines and being able to take more time to do things , improve units etc.
Sorry for getting off subject a little lol I tend to ramble at times.

 

Update: I got all the bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts properly torqued. I reinstalled the starter, and zip tied some hoses and wires out of the way. It looks a little better. Then, I started working on the gear shifting cable. That's when I ran into issue #2.



starter installed

trans cooler hoses




Issue #2:
It looks like the shifter cable is too short. It is no where near reaching the shifter linkage on the transmission. I don't think the cable will adjust that far. I'm thinking about cutting and welding the bracket that holds the shifter cable. In the pics below, the cable is not fully seated into the bracket. That's mostly because it won't fit. I know it's supposed to be tight, and lock in. I think I'll have to grind the hole a little bigger, because it's not even close to going in.