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The main transmission harness connector can be plugged in upside-down. It'll plug in fine but will throw all sorts of codes.
Thanks. I’ll put it on the list of things to check. But my engine installer told me he never unplugged it. But I’ll definitely have this next guy unplug it and make sure the pins in each are matching. The guy who removed the engine might have flipped it.
Check that the harness isn't in upside down as suggested. Check to see that none of the pins are broken when you pull the plug off. Power is Pin E. If there's no issue when you trace from ECM to the harness end that plugs into the transmission, drop the pan and make sure that none of the connections are loose where they plug into the solenoids and manifold pressure switch. This image may be of interest to your mechanic, but as already stated, check everything back to the ECM.
Also for segment swaps, you should see a a transmission and transmission diagnostic ID number that matches a 4L80E. Below is an example of before and after screens of a 4L60E swap. Note the OS is the same before and after, as it's important to choose a 4L80E tune that matches your existing OS before swapping it over, and both the transmission and trans diag need swapped. You can see in the images old trans ID belonging to a 4L60E was 9358310 and the trans ID belonging to the 4L80E is 9358280.
Note that none of this tune stuff is the cause of your issue, as you said it had been running for years, but good info for you and your mechanic to have.
As for grounds, here's all the grounds:
G100 On the lower right side of the engine, above the starter, below exhaust ports (links directly from battery to chassis) G101 Front of the driver-side strut tower (EBCM, also has a direct link to battery) G102 Front of the passenger-side strut tower (ASM) G105 On top right side of the radiator support (ignition relay, RH lamps and horn, RH Firebird headlamp doors) G106 On top left side of the radiator support (LH lamps, washer/wiper, DRL, brake fluid level, EBCM, cooling fans and relays, AIR pump, LH Firebird headlamp doors) G109 Left front frame rail, forward of the brake pressure modulator valve bracket (cruise control, also links to G111) G110 Attached to the rear of the right cylinder head (fuel pump relay, PCM, MAF, oil level, Park/neutral/clutch position switch, Instrument cluster, TCS) G111 on the left side of the engine, behind the alternator, below exhaust ports (ground link to G109) G112 Attached to the rear of the left cylinder head (A/C clutch and diode, coil packs, O2 sensors) G200 Near the left A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (all interior switches, all interior lights, rear mirrors, instrument cluster, steering wheel controls, cig lighter, blower motor relay, radio, BCM, Amp, DRL, seat belts, shock sensor, DLC) G201 Near the right A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (blower motor, convertible top) G202 Under center console, rear of the airbag module, to the right of e-brake (airbag module) G305 Left rocker panel, under the door seal (fuel tank unit, power seats switches) G310 On the roof, left of the dome lamp (rear defogger and 3rd brake light in coupe) G320 On the roof (rear defogger in convertible) G400 Bolted to the trunk release mechanism on the rear trunk wall (tail lamps, turn signals and rear trunk lid, convertible 3rd brake light)
Note: This is for US model V8 Camaro only - G110 and G112 are different in V6 - G400 is slightly different in Firebird
Check that the harness isn't in upside down as suggested. Check to see that none of the pins are broken when you pull the plug off. Power is Pin E. If there's no issue when you trace from ECM to the harness end that plugs into the transmission, drop the pan and make sure that none of the connections are loose where they plug into the solenoids and manifold pressure switch. This image may be of interest to your mechanic, but as already stated, check everything back to the ECM.
Also for segment swaps, you should see a a transmission and transmission diagnostic ID number that matches a 4L80E. Below is an example of before and after screens of a 4L60E swap. Note the OS is the same before and after, as it's important to choose a 4L80E tune that matches your existing OS before swapping it over, and both the transmission and trans diag need swapped. You can see in the images old trans ID belonging to a 4L60E was 9358310 and the trans ID belonging to the 4L80E is 9358280.
Note that none of this tune stuff is the cause of your issue, as you said it had been running for years, but good info for you and your mechanic to have.
As for grounds, here's all the grounds:
G100 On the lower right side of the engine, above the starter, below exhaust ports (links directly from battery to chassis) G101 Front of the driver-side strut tower (EBCM, also has a direct link to battery) G102 Front of the passenger-side strut tower (ASM) G105 On top right side of the radiator support (ignition relay, RH lamps and horn, RH Firebird headlamp doors) G106 On top left side of the radiator support (LH lamps, washer/wiper, DRL, brake fluid level, EBCM, cooling fans and relays, AIR pump, LH Firebird headlamp doors) G109 Left front frame rail, forward of the brake pressure modulator valve bracket (cruise control, also links to G111) G110 Attached to the rear of the right cylinder head (fuel pump relay, PCM, MAF, oil level, Park/neutral/clutch position switch, Instrument cluster, TCS) G111 on the left side of the engine, behind the alternator, below exhaust ports (ground link to G109) G112 Attached to the rear of the left cylinder head (A/C clutch and diode, coil packs, O2 sensors) G200 Near the left A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (all interior switches, all interior lights, rear mirrors, instrument cluster, steering wheel controls, cig lighter, blower motor relay, radio, BCM, Amp, DRL, seat belts, shock sensor, DLC) G201 Near the right A-pillar, bolted to the IP mounting stud behind the kick panel (blower motor, convertible top) G202 Under center console, rear of the airbag module, to the right of e-brake (airbag module) G305 Left rocker panel, under the door seal (fuel tank unit, power seats switches) G310 On the roof, left of the dome lamp (rear defogger and 3rd brake light in coupe) G320 On the roof (rear defogger in convertible) G400 Bolted to the trunk release mechanism on the rear trunk wall (tail lamps, turn signals and rear trunk lid, convertible 3rd brake light)
Note: This is for US model V8 Camaro only - G110 and G112 are different in V6 - G400 is slightly different in Firebird
Great stuff, much appreciated.
Definitely check the plug is in correct rotational position.
Reading through the Grounds and what each controls, nothing else on the list is inoperative accept the transmission issue. So maybe all Grounds are good.
I’ll focus first on this connector to the transmission and see if it has power. Then go from there backwards towards the PCM.
The Connector would have to be significantly Damaged in order to do that.
Definitely Not a highly Probable outcome.
Not really. Swap adapter harnesses that are brand new allow it. Ive done it and had the same issues as above. I realized that it must not be keyed well enough, unplugged it and flipped it and all problems went away.
Must have been using Chinese Knock-Off Connectors or something...
4 years it’s had the Frost plug-n-play adapter to make the 4L80E work with my 1998 PCM.
My friend installed it all along with the new FTI triple disc converter. He plugged up the Frost cable, plugged that into the factory wiring harness. A guy (tuner) came to the dealer and we went for a ride and he did his tuner thing.
Been perfect for 4 years till this new engine just went in.
Well, the transmission is getting power through the main cable that connects to the side of the transmission.
They will check the rear Speed sensor to see if its good, if it is, then they'll have to drop the pan and check the internal wiring harness.
Question: Only the rear speed sensor has a wire connected it. I think I remember since I'm using my factory 1998 PCM it only uses one, and thats the rear sensor.
I was under the impression that the 4L80E segment swap needed 2 speed sensors, 1 input and 1 output.
My builder could only confirm that the rear sensor is a must and that some set ups and PCM's do not require both.......he said he's not sure about my Frost dapter and using the 1998 PCM.
I just have a memory of 4-5 years ago when I was researching all of this 4L80E swap into my car that I only needed the rear sensor using the 1998 PCM.
I can't find Frost anywhere, maybe he closed up shop.
Does anyone know who else sells the same adapter........4L80E plug-n-play to 1998 PCM....??? I can asl them whats required with their adapter, I think it''ll be the same as my Frost.
The 4L60E has one speed sensor (VSS) plugged into tail shaft of trans. On a 4l80e you have two sensors. ISS (input speed sensor) and OSS (output speed sensor). Also known as TISS and TOSS. (Transmission input speed sensor and transmission out speed sensor.) This TISS you have to add wiring for the ISS and pin it into the PCM. You do NOT abandon the original VSS plug that was connected to the 4L60E. You need to take the original wiring that was plugged into the VSS on the 4l60e and plug it into the OSS on the 4l80e. The rear speed sensor. For the ISS, if the PCM was from a 99-02, then on theRed PCM connector, one would connect Pin A to Pin 22 and Pin B to Pin 23. Then run the wires to the FRONT speed sensor on the 4L80E. Again, existing VSS that came off the 4L60E gets plugged into the REAR sensor on the 4L80E. The plug is part number 12162194. That is how I did my 4L80E swap into my 2000, but being that yours is a 98 with a different ECM, it changes the game and I'm not sure how guys are running the 4L80E in the 98's with the stock 98 ECM.
Note that for a "green" ECM, Pin 22 is ISS high and PIN 23 on a green ECM is ISS low.
Being that your car is a 98, if it still has the factory ECM, running the connections to Pin 22 and Pin 23 isn't going to be correct, because on your 98 ECM red connector, Pin 22 is DK BLU Transmission Range Signal B, and pin 23 is LT GRN/BLK Injector #2 Control.
Did your 98 have a 411 ECM swap? I know @JoshuaGrooms83 did a 411 swap into his 98 and is running a 4L80E.
The 4L60E has one speed sensor (VSS) plugged into tail shaft of trans. On a 4l80e you have two sensors. ISS (input speed sensor) and OSS (output speed sensor). Also known as TISS and TOSS. (Transmission input speed sensor and transmission out speed sensor.) This TISS you have to add wiring for the ISS and pin it into the PCM. You do NOT abandon the original VSS plug that was connected to the 4L60E. You need to take the original wiring that was plugged into the VSS on the 4l60e and plug it into the OSS on the 4l80e. The rear speed sensor. For the ISS, if the PCM was from a 99-02, then on theRed PCM connector, one would connect Pin A to Pin 22 and Pin B to Pin 23. Then run the wires to the FRONT speed sensor on the 4L80E. Again, existing VSS that came off the 4L60E gets plugged into the REAR sensor on the 4L80E. The plug is part number 12162194. That is how I did my 4L80E swap into my 2000, but being that yours is a 98 with a different ECM, it changes the game and I'm not sure how guys are running the 4L80E in the 98's with the stock 98 ECM.
Note that for a "green" ECM, Pin 22 is ISS high and PIN 23 on a green ECM is ISS low.
Being that your car is a 98, if it still has the factory ECM, running the connections to Pin 22 and Pin 23 isn't going to be correct, because on your 98 ECM red connector, Pin 22 is DK BLU Transmission Range Signal B, and pin 23 is LT GRN/BLK Injector #2 Control.
Did your 98 have a 411 ECM swap? I know @JoshuaGrooms83 did a 411 swap into his 98 and is running a 4L80E.
Definitely not, its the original factory 1998 PCM. I ordered this car brand new and have owned it ever since so I know for sure there's no 0411 in it. The 0411 would have required that 2-3 hour re-pin job......
The only thing my friend did who installed my tranny was plugged in the frost adapter cable to the tranny and then to the factory wiring haress and that one rear speed sensor. The tuner came by and did the segment swap and we went for a drive. 15 minutes later it was done.
Ran perfect for the past 4 years.
((and again, I'm just trying to rule out that I need that front speed sensor because right now there's nothing plugged into it)))
Also....when I bought this Frost adapter....it was specifically designed to allow the 4L80E to operate with the 1998 PCM.
I definitely had to use both speed sensors on my 05 truck when I did the 4l80e swap from the 4l60e. I just dont know if its mandatory on a 98. Sounds like maybe it's not required.
Definitely not, its the original factory 1998 PCM. I ordered this car brand new and have owned it ever since so I know for sure there's no 0411 in it. The 0411 would have required that 2-3 hour re-pin job......
The only thing my friend did who installed my tranny was plugged in the frost adapter cable to the tranny and then to the factory wiring haress and that one rear speed sensor. The tuner came by and did the segment swap and we went for a drive. 15 minutes later it was done.
Ran perfect for the past 4 years.
((and again, I'm just trying to rule out that I need that front speed sensor because right now there's nothing plugged into it)))
Also....when I bought this Frost adapter....it was specifically designed to allow the 4L80E to operate with the 1998 PCM.
If it worked for 4 years without it, I would say it's not needed.
If it worked for 4 years without it, I would say it's not needed.
Yea. I'm just going to tell the guys trying to figure out my problem that only the rear is needed. They were just asking to rule that out as the issue. Because one speed sensor NOT being plugged in is a sure limp mode.
I just wasn't sure if both used to be plugged in and possibly removing or installing the engine cut that wire or its jammed up somewhere not plugged in.
WHich pin ?
Did wire pull out of the factory crimp ?
Was the the aftermarket swap harness connector that failed ?
What connector or pins did you use to repair ?
The standard MP 150/280 crimper isn’t going to crimp the micro-pack 100W terminals used in this connector worth a damn. The cheap super seal 1.5 series connector made my Rhino tools with the black/yellow handle does ok, but the delphi crimper works best.
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