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4l60e TCC vs TCC PWM

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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 11:00 AM
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Default 4l60e TCC vs TCC PWM

Which of these would be more likely to cause a shudder in OD at 45 or so mph, the TCC or the TCC PWM? Or could it be both or neither? If a transmission set for a long time and one of these solenoids were partial clogged, which one could cause a shudder?
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
Which of these would be more likely to cause a shudder in OD at 45 or so mph, the TCC or the TCC PWM? Or could it be both or neither? If a transmission set for a long time and one of these solenoids were partial clogged, which one could cause a shudder?
I think it's the TCC valve causing wear on the valve body bore from the oscillations (via PWM command), so both?

I don't think so, on you last question, but not for sure. If the PWM solenoid was bad, it will likely set a code (?)
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 01:51 PM
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What is the vehicle/ application ?

It's my understanding that the PWM function is to smooth out TCC operating and eliminate shudder.

Based on that, I'd say it's TCC applying, but there are many things that could affect that.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dixiebandit69
What is the vehicle/ application ?

It's my understanding that the PWM function is to smooth out TCC operating and eliminate shudder.

Based on that, I'd say it's TCC applying, but there are many things that could affect that.
2000 Z28 with 31k miles. It set for an unknown amount of time prior to me buying it. When I first got it it was leaking at the tail shaft and it was shifting hard and late. I changed the fluid and it was a little better but still not “normal” so I ran a little seafoam “trans tune” through it
(which primary naptha) and then changed the fluid again by sucking it out of the dipstick. It shifts well now but it shudders on occasion under light steady throttle at slow speeds. I don’t think the transmission or TC are going bad due to being “beaten on,” but from varnish and such from sitting. I need to change the filter but I’m thinking about replacing the TCC solenoid and maybe the PWM while the pan is off.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 02:39 PM
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First: Do not use any snake-oil transmission "Treatments."

Second, most of that sh*t is still in there if you only ducked the fluid out of the pan. That only gets 3-4 quarts IF you're lucky.

Change it again, and change the filter.

Last, I'm pretty sure that PWM wasn't used until at least '04, but I might be wrong, and it would depend on the application.

Ex: the transmission I used in my swap said PWM on it, but the valve body was not PWM compliant. (Out of an '04 Tahoe.)
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dixiebandit69
First: Do not use any snake-oil transmission "Treatments."

Second, most of that sh*t is still in there if you only ducked the fluid out of the pan. That only gets 3-4 quarts IF you're lucky.

Change it again, and change the filter.

Last, I'm pretty sure that PWM wasn't used until at least '04, but I might be wrong, and it would depend on the application.

Ex: the transmission I used in my swap said PWM on it, but the valve body was not PWM compliant. (Out of an '04 Tahoe.)
I should’ve returned the seafoam for not having any snakes in it. However it did make a vast improvement on how it shifts. The snake oil was 16 oz. I did three suck and fills after I used it and I was able to suck out about four quarts each time so if there is any left I doubt it is enough to harm anything. As a matter of fact the bottle says you can leave it in, but that doesn’t sound too good. Is fuel injector cleaner snake oil as well?
Maybe someone knows if the 4l60e from ‘00 has both a TCC and a TCC PWM solenoid. I googled diagrams and they showed both.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 02:57 PM
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The only additive i would ever use and that worked for ths was LUBEGUARD SHUDDER FIX its juts a friction modifier as it may be the fluid you used is not apropriate .
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 03:02 PM
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As for a mechaincal short of clutch delaminating I would its not a pwm of vavle body issues as even if leaking unless the converter clutch has already become super glazed burned , the converter clutch was desined to slip and not shudder and you would likley have a component slipping code if the slip was excessive.
I would try lubegaurd shudder fix . I unussualy dont promote snake oils but it did work in my escort stationwagon when i dd trans all was great except a rumble shudder on TCC apply . I took a chance and bought a bottle its worked ever since, Also if a new converter it is possible wrong converter clutch material.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FranksCustomTrans
The only additive i would ever use and that worked for ths was LUBEGUARD SHUDDER FIX its juts a friction modifier as it may be the fluid you used is not apropriate .
I used Lubegard prior to the Seafoam. I used both the 10 oz bottle of red as well as the shudder fix with 4qts of fresh fluid DEX VI. At that time it had other shifting issues other than the shudder. It helped a little but it didn’t help as much as the seafoam transtune. After the seafoam the shifting was better almost immediately. After putting a few miles on with the seafoam in it I did three “suck and fills and for good measure I added a bottle of Lubegard Platinum. What lead me/leads me to believe that the transmission issues are from “gunk” that was formed due to sitting for an extended period is that every issue the car has is from sitting. So I figured I’d gamble on using seafoam to clean the valves to possibly make an improvement, or to kill an already dying transmission. Well, it made an improvement and it hasn’t killed it yet. Since it shifted better after a cleaner was ran through it, I’m willing to gamble the price of a solenoid or two to see if it’ll cure my ills. I need to replace the filter anyway so I figured I’d replace them at that time. It doesn’t slip and the shifts under acceleration are good and crisp, but not too crisp, but it’ll act up when it’s lugging around town in OD.

Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Mar 22, 2024 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
I used Lubegard prior to the Seafoam. I used both the 10 oz bottle of red as well as the shudder fix with 4qts of fresh fluid DEX VI. At that time it had other shifting issues other than the shudder. It helped a little but it didn’t help as much as the seafoam transtune. After the seafoam the shifting was better almost immediately. After putting a few miles on with the seafoam in it I did three “suck and fills and for good measure I added a bottle of Lubegard Platinum. What lead me/leads me to believe that the transmission issues are from “gunk” that was formed due to sitting for an extended period is that every issue the car has is from sitting. So I figured I’d gamble on using seafoam to clean the valves to possibly make an improvement, or to kill an already dying transmission. Well, it made an improvement and it hasn’t killed it yet. Since it shifted better after a cleaner was ran through it, I’m willing to gamble the price of a solenoid or two to see if it’ll cure my ills. It doesn’t slip and the shifts under acceleration are good and crisp, but not too crisp, but it’ll act up when it’s lugging around town in OD.
bear in mind LUBEGARDand LUBEGARD SHUDDER FIX are not the same thing .
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by FranksCustomTrans
bear in mind LUBEGARDand LUBEGARD SHUDDER FIX are not the same thing .
I know. I’ve read the FAQ’s. They say it is acceptable to use the two combine two so maybe I ought to mix it with the Lubegard platinum.

Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Mar 22, 2024 at 05:05 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 05:29 PM
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If that does not do it I would suggest changing the converter imo.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by FranksCustomTrans
If that does not do it I would suggest changing the converter imo.
Other than beating the dog sht out of it what would cause a converter to go out? So far douching it out with Seafoam transtune has made greatest improvements so I’m still leaning towards “dirty” valves etc being the main culprit to my problems. If it had 200k miles on it I’d be easier to suspect worn clutches and the likes.
It took several bottles of PEA laden injector cleaners to fix a surging idle issue. This thing was a sitter (outside I think) and it has sitter issues I’m afraid. Other online reads say that the TCC solenoid can cause shudder at lockup. Is this not the case? Can nothing in the valve body (valves, solenoids) cause TC shudder?

Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Mar 22, 2024 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2024 | 08:09 PM
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Well , You said it sat for a long period, Clutch could have degraded, moisture damage , Auto Trans unless properly prepared really do not like being left sitting for long periods
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Old Mar 23, 2024 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by FranksCustomTrans
Well , You said it sat for a long period, Clutch could have degraded, moisture damage , Auto Trans unless properly prepared really do not like being left sitting for long periods
Are there metal screens in the solenoids? Or are they just an open hole? Either way, what happens if those get clogged?
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Old Mar 23, 2024 | 10:36 AM
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yes the stock TCC and PWM do have screens, But you are speaking of a shudder, This should not happen even if the converter is slipping even excessively as they are desined to slip without shuddering.
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Old Mar 24, 2024 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by FranksCustomTrans
yes the stock TCC and PWM do have screens, But you are speaking of a shudder, This should not happen even if the converter is slipping even excessively as they are desined to slip without shuddering.
So you’re saying that poor line pressure can’t or wouldn’t cause a shudder?
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