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So I'm curious as to what anyone else has seen doing this. I remember john deere hygard being popular maybe a decade ago but I never found any difference in performance or cost so I never tried it again.
I generally tell people that any Dex6 rated fluid will work and that I personally use Transynd 668 in my race cars.
Full discourse: I have a customer using castrol blue hydraulic plus ISO 46 in a D3 transbrake 4L80e and glancing at a viscosity chart it seems like it would work. This is refresh #2 (1st was not mine). He reported incredibly low line pressures both at the first refresh and after mine (#2) idle, trans temp 135*F in psi(P-20, R-13, N-20, O- 13, D-12, 2-35, 1-36) and cooler line pressure of 3psi (!!!)
However, the car would hold on the transbrake, upshift normally, apply reverse, etc so I ignorantly advised the customer to go ahead and begin track testing (its race season where he is) assuming his pressure sensors were logging poorly (setup incorrectly in the tune perhaps)
At some point during the track time, it lost all gears during a run and bounced off the limiter and hurt some valvetrain parts. Now pressures are measured even lower (3-5 psi)
This car is using the SDCE rear pickup filter tube and pan. It uses a paper matrix type filter from a dodge.
Any and all opinions and verbal abuse is appreciated. Thank you.
I recall a long thread maybe 10 years ago where hydraulic oil was discussed as an alternate to Dex fluid. I don't recall anyone having major problems; some reported that the stall speed changed somewhat, but else barely noticeable. I don't recall anyone measuring line pressure.
Based on what I remember from that thread, I suspect your customer's super low line pressure was due to a filter problem. And just bad luck.
thats my guess too. which is why i'm so leery about people using hyd oils. ATF has more functions than just a plain hydraulic oil.
this is the SDCE pick up kit (which i have used several times without issue (and has helped a great deal in keeping the intermediates alive in cars that sixty foot in the 1.20's)
it certainly appears to be a 47/48RE filter.
If I'm not mistaken a TF727 "race" filter should bolt right on (which is what I used several years ago when I built my own version of a rear pickup for an 80e)
I should have readings from a mechanical gauge this evening or tomorrow.
Mechnical issuse , Bad pump, stuck regulator, missing end cap on regulator are about the only things I could imagine could leave you with presure that low. Certainly pump area no cut seal or valve body issue or crack on case whatever could leave you that low and certainly no type fluid hell water would give you more than that at least for a bit.
As for Hydralic fluid waste of money IMO over trans fluid , But I will say I did a warranty once on someones who used some type of it as it was clear and it broke my hands out in a rash for days afterward. plain DEX to DEX6 works as well as anything, To me nothing goes in a trans but trans oil with the exception of lubegard shudder which I have used with some sucess a few times over the years but I suspect customer may have used wrong fluid in first place to have caused the shudder. Some use TYPE F still to get a firmer shift old school stuff , Not realizing it does not have the friction modifers needed for late model trans where the converter clutch slips by design.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
yeah i just talked to SD concepts and they run LAT Pro Max which is very close to ketchup lol.
Something is mechanically wrong. I'll have to take this one back to the drawing board. I clearly missed something on the refresh.
For those using the SDCE pickup, I was correct that you can use a TF727 "race" or "police" filter. I confirmed with SDCE. Your part numbers will be filter # A12010D and gasket # 12326
Whenever there is a Viscosity difference between different Fluids...
There will be Flow, Pressure and Temperature changes which will further effect Flow and Pressure.
Anyone will a Dump System and/ or external Regulation of the Cooler Circuit...
Will notice the difference in how the Torque-Converter will behave in terms of Stall-Speed changes.
I only used John Deere Hyguard in very select situations.
I would consider it a Band-Aid for Temperature issues that ideally should be Diagnosed and Corrected instead.
yeah, i dint like the smurf blood looking castol blue hydro he was using at all. the requirement for this no-cost-to-him-refresh, the customer is putting in transynd 668 to get any further warranty coverage.
as a side note, i dont know if anyone has smelled the LAT pro max atf.....lol its smells like burnt *** right out of the bottle. I wish I had come up with that genius marketing move. cant tell if your atf is cooked if it's smelling cooked right out of the bottle! lol
yeah, i dint like the smurf blood looking castol blue hydro he was using at all. the requirement for this no-cost-to-him-refresh, the customer is putting in transynd 668 to get any further warranty coverage.
as a side note, i dont know if anyone has smelled the LAT pro max atf.....lol its smells like burnt *** right out of the bottle. I wish I had come up with that genius marketing move. cant tell if your atf is cooked if it's smelling cooked right out of the bottle! lol
Yes As I mentioned earlier wont mention brand but one of then broke me out in hives on my hands handling it duringa warranty job.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
I won't go on a full out rant here but just some quick notes
A. if you have to modify converter stall by messing with thicker and thicker oils...the converter is just wrong. Quit trying to bandaid it and just get the proper converter in there
B. If you are so cheap that you're going to run cheap tractor oil instead of a proper transmission fluid...especially if you have a nice street car or a race car etc. You have no business being in this hobby. It's foolish to spend $1000's on a transmission and converter then cheap out over $50 difference in oil cost from one to the next.
C. ALL high hp cars burn the oil. Period. Converter exit temperatures are regularly over 400 degrees on a car making good power. I don't care how good your cooler is. How good your oil is. It's just the nature of the beast. Regular changes come with the territory when making higher and higher hp.
Dex6
Transynd
Dex3
all ok
Type F
Tractor Transmission Oil
Tractor Hydraulic oil
Etc
JUNK
I won't go on a full out rant here but just some quick
B. If you are so cheap that you're going to run cheap tractor oil instead of a proper transmission fluid...especially if you have a nice street car or a race car etc.
JUNK
“Tractor oil” is higher than ***** on a giraffe… The poor bastards that have to use this stuff are really screwed because it only comes in five gallon buckets that run $420. The regular ole hydraulic fluid isn’t super expensive but it’s not all that cheap either at around $30 a gallon.
ever since Grady turned me onto castrol transynd 668....i dont even look anywhere else. ive taken it to 2000hp at the wheels with green he borgs and 225 psi line pressure.
it really is the best ive found out there imo
always ready to hear different tho. im trying to be less of an *** about trying new stuff
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using hydraulic oil as ATF ??? 
