UPDATE!!!! Got rid of the code after I took off the adapter harness and just kept the tan and white wire pulled and kept the brown wire in pin S location. Hopefully it doesn’t come back for some reason. BUT i can accelerate a little more but it does grind but not as bad…. After inspecting it all over again i figured that the torque converter is literally touching the flex plate. i thought there was supposed to be a 1/8 minimum to 3/16 max of a gap/space. Here is the photo. correct me if i am wrong.BTW i did not install this.

 

The torque converter is literally supposed to bolt to the flex plate. So, it should be touching.

 

i’ll take it into consideration but from what i know what people done on the swaps they put a gap no more than 3/16 and no less than 1/8.
Any one else thing there should be a gap or not?

 

That is 1/8 to 3/16 before bolting torque converter to flex plate.

 

So do i unbolt to see how much play room i have?

 

because i honestly think they didn’t put the torque converter all the way in for the driving on gravel feeling/grind while trying to accelerate i got rid of the solenoid code already what could it be? Torque converter grind on the pump? from my understanding you have to put a wash between the converter and flexplate then bolt it on.thats what i mean by gap

 

Actually with the 80E I like to see a bit more than the 1/8 closer to 3/16 but yes you must have a gap and yes you can be to close, Ran into this recently guy had just under 1/8 had to buy a trans to block spacer shim. Yes they do make them you can get them on summit or jegs 1/16 to as much as 1/4 inch thick

 

This was the answer i was looking for!!! thank you again you’ve been very helpful. will that explain the grind on the outer part of the pump or maybe just some splines that aren’t engaging properly,

 

When aiming for the 1/8 to 3/16 spacing (agree with Frank it's better to target 3/16) if you find the need to use washers to get the spacing, make sure the washer thickness around each converter to flywheel bolt are all the same. No more than
0.001" difference in thickness between the washer/s height so that the pump bushing doesn't get prematurely worn.

Looks like the electrical issue is solved. For future reference on electrical pinouts involving a 4L60E to 4L80E swap, check out pages 21-23 of the PDF found here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...en-f-body.html

Converter installation info starts on page 7.

 

Sadly it could mean you have already damaged the pump. I would pull pan, if you find significant iron shavings then you have.only take a few minutes if that of running it to tight to do damage,

 

it only grinded a couple times and i stopped it completely it doesn’t grind if i let it drive itself. i will check the pan tho. better safe than sorry to my pockets😂

 

Update!!! Fixed the issue , It was a driveshaft clearance issue from the U shaped crossmember. Good thing I caught it. That could’ve been bad if I was slow enough to drive it with the grinding noise. This is a really late update but i fixed it the following day. Transmission is fine as far of the grinding.