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I'm helping a friend out and building a 86 700R4 non auxiliary VB style unit. I always update the input drum & reverse input drum in all my 700R4 Builds. This one however has a blown up pump. WIT doesn't have an OE pump. Can't find one on eBay either. So I am looking to upgrade to the 4L60E pump at this time.
I had to tear-down a XX year bolt on bell-housing unit with the 298mm style pump for the drums I wanted. I figure if I can use this core up it's less I have to scrap later because I'm winding things down to my full retirement.
There was a write up on using this in this section. https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-thread-2.html
Post #32 by @FranksCustomTrans
Because Frank has done this, I hope he can clarify what needs to be done on the NON-AUX unit to make it function properly. I have A 1995 core if that is a better choice but it's still a PWM pump I believe.
In Franks post he mentions a firmer garage shift feel and orificing the FWD feed in the case to prevent this. What is your preference Frank, .078, .093 or .125?
(For those that did not hear, He is now in hospice at home. Please PM me if anyone has any questions, and please do not de-rail Tranzman's Post).
Dad said that He always would Update the Early-Model THM700-R4 Transmissions (1982 - 1986) to the 1987 Valve-Body Configuration.
The 1987 Valve-Body Configuration is the Early (or what TransGo refers to as a Type 1 Valve-Body) with the Auxiliary Valve-Body.
The Case needs a minor modification.
An aluminum Slug needs to get installed into the Case creating a Wall to separate a Circuit Worm-Track.
Image below:
Parts needed:
-Aux Valve-body and Corresponding Components.
-Feed-Tube.
-1987 Up Pump.
-Separator Plate.
I do not see why this could not be done with the 4L60E Pump.
I wonder if a matching 4L60E Reverse-Input Drum should be used so that the Reverse-Input Feed on the rear of the Stator Support Tube match.
I spent some time studying the post I mentioned. Here is my take away from it.
Using a 4L60E pump in a 700R4.
For a 1982-E87 unit.
1) Block the M2 feed in the case (item 6 in figure 26)
2) Orifice the FWD feed to .093 (item 1 in figure 26) For a L87-93 unit
1) Block the D2 feed in the case (item 6 in figure 26)
2) Drill the FWD feed to .093 in the case. Use a gasket as a template for the hole.(item 1 in figure 26)
3) Block the fwd feed in the Aux. VB (do not drive plug deep enough to cover the accumulator feed hole)
4) Use the 4th accumulator spring in place of the OE fwd spring.
5) Remove the #12 FWD check ball in the Aux. VB (item 55B in figure 28)
FYI,
I also ran across an ATSG book that states that a L87-93 AUX. VB pump cover can be used in a 82-E87 unit by blocking the FWD feed hole for the tube. So to me that means a L87-93 pump assembly can be used as well.
I also found that the reason for some to have the harsh FWD. engagement. The shaft used in the early 700R4 uses a 3mm (.118) feed hole and the others use a 6mm (.236) feed hole.
I spent some time studying the post I mentioned. Here is my take away from it.
Using a 4L60E pump in a 700R4.
For a 1982-E87 unit.
1) Block the M2 feed in the case (item 6 in figure 26)
2) Orifice the FWD feed to .093 (item 1 in figure 26) For a L87-93 unit
1) Block the D2 feed in the case (item 6 in figure 26)
2) Drill the FWD feed to .093 in the case. Use a gasket as a template for the hole.(item 1 in figure 26)
3) Block the fwd feed in the Aux. VB (do not drive plug deep enough to cover the accumulator feed hole)
4) Use the 4th accumulator spring in place of the OE fwd spring.
5) Remove the #12 FWD check ball in the Aux. VB (item 55B in figure 28)
FYI,
I also ran across an ATSG book that states that a L87-93 AUX. VB pump cover can be used in a 82-E87 unit by blocking the FWD feed hole for the tube. So to me that means a L87-93 pump assembly can be used as well.
I also found that the reason for some to have the harsh FWD. engagement. The shaft used in the early 700R4 uses a 3mm (.118) feed hole and the others use a 6mm (.236) feed hole.
I have done this many many times, The 4L60E pump works well yes block D2 feed if its non aux case that's pretty much all you have to do, if aux you have to drill through case at FWD feed for pump. .093 is fine, But with aux you must leave the ball out of the aux as the way the oil comes in it will actually block the oil to the acum. Also I swap the spring to one from the 4th accum softer to allow easier travel as the FWD engagement seems to be a bit firmer.
Other notes are the manual 1-2 gears will no longer be at max line but TV controlled as D3 AND D4 normally are.
I have had best luck with a .500 boost valve with the little added spring you probably have seen in my post , This yields about 70 to 80 PSI at idle and about 200 to 220 psi at WOT.
Now with the NON AUX which is always and issue anyway you may see aggressive bump into Drive from PRN , Best solutions I have for that are from my early days off building the 700R4 before AUX when was machining the top and bottom plate in the FWD to allow use of 2 cushion "waves" one at each end and using a roloc disc to roughen surface of steels to get a less aggressive surface. But I almost never see a non aux case anymore,
One other thing we used to do is place a .086 orifice in the case at pump for fwd clutch feed to help mitigate this.
But overall the 4L60E pump works really well , Good all around function nice liner pressure control and best of all you can use a deep 4l60e plan and filter.
Oh and note you can use any of the 298mm stator 60e pumps PWM of not makes no difference as it strokes and feeds the same with the 700R4 vb
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
I have done this many many times, The 4L60E pump works well yes block D2 feed if its non aux case that's pretty much all you have to do, if aux you have to drill through case at FWD feed for pump. .093 is fine, But with aux you must leave the ball out of the aux as the way the oil comes in it will actually block the oil to the acum. Also I swap the spring to one from the 4th accum softer to allow easier travel as the FWD engagement seems to be a bit firmer.
Other notes are the manual 1-2 gears will no longer be at max line but TV controlled as D3 AND D4 normally are.
I have had best luck with a .500 boost valve with the little added spring you probably have seen in my post , This yields about 70 to 80 PSI at idle and about 200 to 220 psi at WOT.
Now with the NON AUX which is always and issue anyway you may see aggressive bump into Drive from PRN , Best solutions I have for that are from my early days off building the 700R4 before AUX when was machining the top and bottom plate in the FWD to allow use of 2 cushion "waves" one at each end and using a roloc disc to roughen surface of steels to get a less aggressive surface. But I almost never see a non aux case anymore,
One other thing we used to do is place a .086 orifice in the case at pump for fwd clutch feed to help mitigate this.
But overall the 4L60E pump works really well , Good all around function nice liner pressure control and best of all you can use a deep 4l60e plan and filter.
Oh and note you can use any of the 298mm stator 60e pumps PWM of not makes no difference as it strokes and feeds the same with the 700R4 vb
Thanks for the clarification.
Rather than install a FWD. orificed plug. Do you think the original Input shaft with the 3mm feed hole in it would be best??
I did find that I have a machined aux.VB pump assembly that I can use too. I thought I had sold that one before and I might have. I send 5-6 pumps in at a time for machining but have not done so in 2+ years because I'm dwindling down my stock. I'm hoping to build my last transmission before the end of the year. I just have 2 people that I have told I would do theirs. After that the steam cabinet, 10ft bench & shelving are going to be sold. I'm going to give away most of my left over parts to a friend close by. I may buy a 6ft bench just to have for personal use.
The plug or the shaft should do fine
Using the 700 aux pump only requires plugging the pipe hole but dont drive what ever in to far and block hole inside. Personally I would do the 60e pump but either way.
something that is a perfect fit for the 700r4 hole is a low roller cut in half drive in and then stake,
For the 700R4AUX pump nothing else is needed.
I stil would use the .500 boost valve and add my little spring, Also you can add a small spring in the inner boost for a little extra the small springs in the HBF kit has the perfect one.
Will again yield about 70 to 80 psi at idle and 200- 220 wot, Oringed boost valves preferred as the old 700 pumps are just so old they leak like crazy in that bore from erosion.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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4L60E pump in a 700R4 
