I would agree on not going through the radiator after the cooler. To me unless you live in an EXTREME cold area colder than PA gets in the winter, I would as I mentioned I think earlier the supplied cooler stand alone with a thermal switch 180f in the outlet side (feed to top line return on trans) with a small fan like this Now bear iin mind if you put in non metal lines you will need to run a ground wire to the block you use, Or better yet , put a bung in the pan and locate it there, You will get a much better average temp,
This set up is how my car is set up, Temp is regulated well even in the warmest 90 degree days we get here. If your cooler is a bit larger they also make 7 and 8 inch fans. Note my cooler is actually quiet small for space reasons, When I originally built car it came with an engine oil cooler and I also had relocated my windsheild wiper tank to front of radiator and had planned a throttle body / intake cooler (never got around to that) and later did away with the leaky problematic engine oil cooler in favor of old style factory oil filter boss and a huge old style 2 quart oil filter.

 

That is a small cooler. Great that it works for you with that big stall... 💪

 

Where are you guys getting the tranny temp from?
A sensor in the line to the cooler?

 

best place is the pan . Many put a electric sensor in line to cooler. B&M used to make a kit for it.

 

Guess I should have looked before asking….
https://www.autometer.com/2-trans-te...ltra-lite.html

 

The tranny oil temp gauge and sensor will be here on Tuesday.
I also ordered a bung that I’ll put in my other spare oil pan, it has a drain plug. The Gearstar tranny pan doesn’t have a drain on it.
The Gearstar tranny came with a Hayden 679 cooler that is too big to use, 10” x 11”, I can’t find any place to mount it. Anybody need a cooler, new in box.
I bought a Hayden 687 cooler, 7” x 11” that has AN6 fittings. Got a 7” fan for it and a temp sensor switch.
Still debating if I should just have the fluid go thru the Hayden and forget about the radiator connections.

 

Just my thought in a place like NM I would just run cooler stand alone with thermal actualted fan and observe data a bit just to make sure enough, As long as you average under 200f you are fine, Occasional spikes to 230 are fine as long as not continuous. In my own car with a similar sized cooler with fan stand alone but with 2800 stall and 3.08 gears 4400 lbs . I rarely see temps even in hot summer warm enough to bring fan on at 160f

 

The fan showed up today, It 9” in diameter not 7” as advertised, really too big for the 7 x 11” Hayden 687 cooler. Not worth sending back for credit.
So if I use my bigger 10 x 11” cooler a could mount it in front of the diff and use this 9” fan.
How much AN6 line length would be considered too long if I nix the lines to the radiator?

 

You most likely wont have much more if any more than regular cooler lines with a cooler in front of the radiator honestly.

 

AGREE the additional length should be no issue.

 

Finally back to this project. All the parts I ordered are in as well as a new oil pan that has a drain plug. My old pan doesn’t have one.
I’m going to weld 2 bungs in the pan, one for a 170ºF thermal switch for the fan and another for the gauge temp sensor.
To speed up things I’d like to weld the bungs to the new pan before I remove the old pan.
Without removing the old pan to see where there would be room for the sensor to stick thru 3/8” can one of you guys tell me an approximate location on the side of the pan where it wouldn’t interfere with anything?
The temp switch isn’t a problem, it’s flush with the bung.

 

^_anyone…..

 

Front left corner or rear right corner if iirc. You should check before drilling.

 

Thanks. Initially I was thinking about under the servo on the front right corner down low.

 

I would put the pan off before drilling,

 

And what fun would that be ?

 

Finally back on this project. The bungs I needed arrived today.
Looking at a few pics of the tranny with the pan removed the drivers side of the pan about in the middle looks like the best spot to weld in 2 bungs. One for the fan temp switch and the other for the tranny temp sensor.

 

Got some longer bungs so the temp switch is flush with the inside edge of the bung.
The gauge sensor sticks past the bung about 1/8” so no problems with any internal interference.

 

Why not get it straight from the PCM?


Is there any downfall to just reading the transmission temp straight from the internal signal the PCM sees?

 

My tranny temp gauge is analog.
It’s all hooked up and working.