I got a gen 4 5.3 and a 2005 4l60e e38 with t42 kit from bp automotive. The trans have been rebuilt.. I have had the engine tune it run great. The transmission dont have any codes neither does the engine.. its in a gmc sonoma the plug is in the correct way arrow pointing towards the body when I take off in d the trans shift one time... when I put it in 1st from the column it pull off rpms go up I shift to second nothing rpms continue to go up... when I shift it to third it shift rmps go up I shift to d nothing.... I dont know if im stuck in second and third or if I only have first and third. It pull strong in gear and it doesn't slip i also have reverse. The tcu is cammanding gears but its not shifting i hear a click when i activate the solenoids with a scanner... (not saying there working correctly ) also no tcc lockup. Any help will be appreciated in a direction to solve my problem. The trans guy said he built it right so looks like I got to fix the problem myself.

 

My guess is band is of the lug easy enough to happen, I just love when the builder says they BUILT IS RIGHT as if they are infallible instead of giving you the help you need to solve the issue,
Truth is I WOULD hope we all strive to BUILD IT RIGHT but reality is **** HAPPENS and no one is INFAILABLE.

 

Thank you can I check that with the trans still installed

 

Yes but you would ben to drop pan to see and remove servo , It is off the lug then remove valve body to fix .

 

What are the chances the 1/2 shift solenoid is bad mechanically and not throwing a code or a stuck shift valve i want to start with the easy stuff first I have never been inside of a trans I just took the pan off mine a couple months ago to fix a leak

 

If the 1-2 solenoid was STUCK on then you would have 1st 1st 4th 4th . If it was stuck off you would have 2nd 3rd only. Either condition should set a code.
If the 2-3 was stuck on you would get 1st 2nd 2nd 1st and if stuck off you would get 4th-3rd-4th and again should / would set codes,

I am still betting on issues with the second servo or the band. If the outer or inner ring other the second servo was missing on damaged leaking badly you would have no 2nd and second oil would flood the chamber between the second and 4th servo preventing 4th .
This or the band off are what I think would be most likely. Thinking I would remove and inspect servo assembly first.
I see no electrical or solenoid issue that could create your problem , But am also quiet surprised no codes either . However in that condition you are likely not driving far enough to reach operating temp and below that none electrical codes would be prohibited in the PCM/TCM.

 

I drove it 20 miles home from the tuner shop no codes no wierd noise like something is loose inside the trans.... the trans temp got up to 176 degrees and engine 204 degrees....


I will checknthe bands when I get a chance to tear it down

will the bands be off the anchor if im starting in second and shifting to third its to sluggish to be starting in first and if i was getting 4th I should be able to get up to a good speed before it wind out.... i got like 50 or 60 and it felt like it needed to shift one more time

 

Ok I might be miss understanding your description reading through , When you sad you put it in manual first but Now i see it has second in manual 1 and the a 2-3 shift automatically when in D3 AND D4 ? So you are starting in 2ND regardless and the shift both automatically and manually to 3rd.
So you have no 1st or 4th ? But do have both manually and automatically 2nd and 3rd.
Ok that changes everything,
I would say shift solenoid A is not working and is always open , Or the orifice feeding it is blocked - (happens)
Ok assuming you do have an automatic 2-3 IN D3 AND D4 POSITION This would take limp mode off the table as you would only have 2-3 manually with manual shifts from 2 to 3 .
So I would advise checking shift solenoid A which must work to get 1st or 4th and that valve behind it strokes while you are there. I would change solenoid.
Still a possibility the orifice feeding the A solenoid is blocked but that would require VB removal , So I would just change shift sol A and check valve movement and then see what happens.

 

Yes that's exactly whats going on it shift 2-3 in d3 d4 or manual im going to buy new solenoids and change them both thanks for your help and responses I will post a solution when its fixed

 

I installed new shift solenoid in the 1/2 location and its still the same.... it will burn rubber in second hold it until I get off the gas then shift to third then nothing when its in 3rd and I floor it it will downshift to second and run hard shift to third run hard still no fourth in reverse I can barely touch the gas good and it spin a tire

 

Assuming the 1-2 valve is not stuck. then i would have to say orifice in plate is blocked.

 

Could the afl bore be worn and not over coming the spring pressure the tcc is disabled also

 

possible yes but would have to be to and extreme level as generally with that situation you will get a second start with a jump down to 1st with a little throttle .
I would pull the VB and check that orifice. I have seen it a number of times and it is so tiny (DO NOT ENLARGE) The tiniest little speck can block it. Remove VB -PLATE then hold to sunlight and if it go something wedged there you will see it. Have even couple times seen with the hole not drilled all the way through with new plate.
Notes however if it is blocked do not make the hole larger. Just use something to clean it out, On the rare chance its not drilled through find a tiny bit to match the orifice for the 2-3 valve and make the 1-2 orifice the same. These holes are tiny . I always hold even the new plates I get up to the light to check these.
Also check the orings on the PWM solenoid and the 3-2 you could have an oring dumping AFL. Take much less AFL pressure to push the 2-3 than the 1-2 valve.
Ah and one other possibility , Check that the 1-2 valve does not have a hole in the center on the solenoid side. It is unlikely but possible someone installed a transgo kit at some point and during this build someone missed for forgot the tiny ball that is needed to block this. But in that case you would have manual 1 but not auto 1 so unlikely .

PULL VB AND CHECK ORIFICE AND SOLENOID ORINGS, DID YOU USE SONNAX NO PIN ACCUM IN SECOND WITHOUT BLOCKING THE PIN HOLE ON 2ND ACCUM = AFL LEAK , MISSING SCREEN IN PUMP? -THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE LOW AFL ALONG WITH LOW LINE AND NO 1 OR 4TH.

Hope I am helping , trying to take you through easiest to check to hardest. Myself when I replaced the solenoids I would have tested the 1-2 with air and if it passed pulled VB and checked orifice. If it was clear then would pull unit and check for that thimble screen in pump. They do get left out . I have I have two rules in my builds. Never remove the thimble screen till ready to replace. Never remove the green oring inside the input drum till ready to replace as both are things easy to overlook.

 

Yes you are very helpful... I dont know much about a trans and as bad as I dont want to im going to take it out and return it to the builder because trying stuff and its not working plus steady spending money is stressful. And he agreed to rebuild me another trans and I return the one I have because he stay far away and so I wont be down long at a shop so thats a plus. I jus hope the new doent do the same... this trans has beat me this my first time dealing with a transmission