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Subject: 1992 4L60 (no E).
I've posted a list of parts put into the rebuild in another thread but nothing extraordinary.
In that list are .500" and .300" boost valves, a TransGo 2&3, Sonnax servos, etc.
The ATSG manual has a broad based list of operating pressures in drive and reverse with the TV cable in an idle position and WOT.
I'm guessing that the manuals guideline isn't worth much in a performance orientated build so my question is:
What are the target pressures to aim for when building one of these?
250 PSI you say. Hmm.
I've got logs of the pressure gauge (but not on hand ). I'll have to look although I don't think I ever saw 250.
These were "static" tests in that the car was parked, throttle cable disconnected, engine idling in the gear of choice and then pulling the TV cable to WOT.
I've got it rigged now so that I can observe the gauge while at the track. But I'm not about to cook another transmission because the pressures aren't high enough for a 450HP/450TQ 357 SBC.
I like to see 60 to 80 at idle and around 200 to 230 at WOT . But variable include. Pump overall condition. Boost valve size and leakage, AFL leakage , Tune, pressure control solenoid calibration which i am working on a test for , As while I have noted they well seem to be less than precise with some preliminary PULSED WIDTH test I have not had time yet to build a precise tester but plan to. But again in answer.
STOCK 60PSI IDLE A LITTLE HIGHER IS FINE
STOCK 160 TO 180 IS TYPICAL
PERFORMANCE 60 TO 80 PSI IDLE
PERFORMANCE 200 TO 235 WOT don't care for much more as I worry about the structural integrity of input drum above that particularly the 3-4 snap ring.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
I like to see 60 to 80 at idle and around 200 to 230 at WOT . But variable include. Pump overall condition. Boost valve size and leakage, AFL leakage , Tune, pressure control solenoid calibration which i am working on a test for , As while I have noted they well seem to be less than precise with some preliminary PULSED WIDTH test I have not had time yet to build a precise tester but plan to. But again in answer.
STOCK 60PSI IDLE A LITTLE HIGHER IS FINE
STOCK 160 TO 180 IS TYPICAL
PERFORMANCE 60 TO 80 PSI IDLE
PERFORMANCE 200 TO 235 WOT don't care for much more as I worry about the structural integrity of input drum above that particularly the 3-4 snap ring.
Frank did not have his Coffee today!
The OP is referring to his 1992 THM700-R4 (ie: 4L60 NON-E).
I like to see 60 to 80 at idle and around 200 to 230 at WOT . But variable include. Pump overall condition. Boost valve size and leakage, AFL leakage , Tune, pressure control solenoid calibration which i am working on a test for , As while I have noted they well seem to be less than precise with some preliminary PULSED WIDTH test I have not had time yet to build a precise tester but plan to. But again in answer.
STOCK 60PSI IDLE A LITTLE HIGHER IS FINE
STOCK 160 TO 180 IS TYPICAL
PERFORMANCE 60 TO 80 PSI IDLE
PERFORMANCE 200 TO 235 WOT don't care for much more as I worry about the structural integrity of input drum above that particularly the 3-4 snap ring.
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
Frank did not have his Coffee today!
The OP is referring to his 1992 THM700-R4 (ie: 4L60 NON-E).
Yes it is a NON E version but seeing it's the pressures I'm after I can probably ignore the solenoid and PWM bits.
I've got the stock idle requirements covered and then some.
I can watch the off idle pressure jump to north of 110-120. Maybe even a 150 but I was certainly hoping for more.
It's got .500" and .300" boost valves.
Going over my notes, I didn't come across a WOT test so I might not have done it. I just finished the 1st fluid and filter change after a 1000 miles or so. There was more sediment in the pan and on the magnet that I'm comfortable with but it is what it is. I've pictures if anyone is interested.
Anyway, I got a gauge plumbed in and taped to the windshield so further testing is in the cards.
Test and tune is a week from Friday weather permitting but I'll have some results before that.
Otherwise this unit is top shelf. Shifts great and the converter is spot on. At least as far as my limited testing has shown.
yes brain fart on the 4l60 / e was actually drinking the coffee while typing lol
Ok pressure ideal still same however it wont just Jump to 220 off idle it is semi linear and rises according to TV valve position. Done however expect 200 plus at idle either even at full TV . That test should be at 1500 rpm or higher.
Ok now you don't have what you want first question can the pump do it ? What are your reverse pressure at 1500 rpm TV CABLE POSITION should have no effect assuming a 7004/4L60 PUMP.
Of so and you get 220 or more. then I do have an easy solution, Add a small spring in the BOOST valve from the harbor freight assorted kit , I can get you a position and photo in a bit of which spring and this will take you over 200 while leaving your idle pressure only slightly elevated. I have pictures of it installed in a 4L60E boost valve in my 4L60E TIPS N TRICKS THREAD.
Other option's are sonnax does make a stiffer main regulator spring as does transgo.
However a common issue with the 700r4 and now days the 60e pump too is actually erosion leaks at the boost valve. Which is why I strongly suggest orringed boost valves . However the small spring added will also help compensate for this.
Other PR Limiting issue can be Very early single spring on slide or missing later inner spring . This will allow slide to move to low pressure /size position limiting max line.
So you want the dual later spring set up or the late conical stand alone spring.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
yes brain fart on the 4l60 / e was actually drinking the coffee while typing lol
Ok pressure ideal still same however it wont just Jump to 220 off idle it is semi linear and rises according to TV valve position. Done however expect 200 plus at idle either even at full TV . That test should be at 1500 rpm or higher.
Ok now you don't have what you want first question can the pump do it ? What are your reverse pressure at 1500 rpm TV CABLE POSITION should have no effect assuming a 7004/4L60 PUMP.
Of so and you get 220 or more. then I do have an easy solution, Add a small spring in the BOOST valve from the harbor freight assorted kit , I can get you a position and photo in a bit of which spring and this will take you over 200 while leaving your idle pressure only slightly elevated. I have pictures of it installed in a 4L60E boost valve in my 4L60E TIPS N TRICKS THREAD.
Other option's are sonnax does make a stiffer main regulator spring as does transgo.
However a common issue with the 700r4 and now days the 60e pump too is actually erosion leaks at the boost valve. Which is why I strongly suggest orringed boost valves . However the small spring added will also help compensate for this.
Other PR Limiting issue can be Very early single spring on slide or missing later inner spring . This will allow slide to move to low pressure /size position limiting max line.
So you want the dual later spring set up or the late conical stand alone spring.
Trying to recall all of the pre drive tests I did although I did follow the ATSG manual's procedure for RPM and TV cable position. Thinking back I believe there was a 1500 RPM test at both idle position and WOT but I can't find the documentation. I'll be doing it again.
I may have the o-ringed boost valve as it was on the build sheet I gave to the builder. But I grew suspicious when I didn't get the 3/4 super servo even though I gave him one. He said he didn't like them but after I asked and seeing as the transmission was on my bench at home and not yet installed, I hauled it back over to his shop. No problem with the rework. I offered to do it myself as he had the servo but he wanted to set the pin gap (IIRC) so I let him at it.
Anyway, I'll post up my results probably by the weekend and maybe there'll be further insights.
Thanks as always gentlemen.
So, I dropped the pan (yet again) to confirm the pressure regulator train.
As spec'd it has a .500" TV boost valve and a .300" Intermediate/Reverse valve.
Test performed as per the ATSG manual.
I've included the ATSG ranges for comparison.
I think I'm good to go. Thoughts?
Test and tune is tonight!
Damn! You've no idea how happy I am to hear you say that.
I'd put a scare into me when I torched the hose against the header in previous testing. I'd lost some fluid (got towed home) but I didn't realize until after this latest go around and refilling, that the 4 quarts that drained out the pan turned into 7 quarts on the refill. I may have put a few miles (hard ones too) with as much 3 quarts down. 2 for sure. It seems to have survived.
Thanks again Frank.
Now all I have to do is pass tech...
Well if you have even the truck deep pan it will actually run pretty low and be ok , Its why I include a new deep stock type pan on every build. The stock shalow pans are no where near as forgiving . And you would be amazed at how many do start out running low as they do inital start up and fill and think they are done. This is why I tell people , FILL while running till full. Run through gears several times. Then shut down for at least 30 minutes while checking for leaks then start run though gears then check again. MANY TIMES they find they are a couple quarts or more low.
I atribute this to air churned up during intial start up or blender effect and after sitting the air bubbles out and you get a very different reading.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Well if you have even the truck deep pan it will actually run pretty low and be ok , Its why I include a new deep stock type pan on every build. The stock shalow pans are no where near as forgiving . And you would be amazed at how many do start out running low as they do inital start up and fill and think they are done. This is why I tell people , FILL while running till full. Run through gears several times. Then shut down for at least 30 minutes while checking for leaks then start run though gears then check again. MANY TIMES they find they are a couple quarts or more low.
I atribute this to air churned up during intial start up or blender effect and after sitting the air bubbles out and you get a very different reading.
This a stock depth pan (and no drain plug dammit) and what you're describing is exactly what I went through. I'll say 3 quarts low and some hard burnouts at that.
But, after those satisfactory pressure test results, I hit the track last night and while the car is slow (12.22 @ 111 corrected) the transmission is the best shifting beast I've ever owned. 1/2 and 2/3 are lightening quick and the converter has great shift recovery. 6500 shift and never less than 5000 for the next gear. I've got a zero tuning personal best and with a little work on the suspension and some engine tuning, good air will see 11's. At least that's my stretch goal for next year.
Thanks for your insights Frank. It's much appreciated.
This is a lowered 3rd gen Camaro and as such that exhaust pipe as pictured has now "self clearanced" itself with a few hard ground strikes.
You can see it's height relative to the pan. I'm not so sure a deep pan would work.
But, never say never. Nicely priced though. It's made it to my wish list.
I'll do a mid season fluid change after a few more miles and some additional track time next year. I could certainly do a trial fit and not be out much if it proves too low. I'd probably shear off the drain plain though.
Last edited by 67LSX454; Sep 20, 2025 at 12:05 PM.
Only about 1 inch deeper cetainly less deep than that pipe. Thats why just adding the extra seal makes the filter work, On my car you would have to slam the frame to be able to hit the pan as the crossmember and frame are still lower than it . Course I have a 95 impla ss
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
This is a lowered 3rd gen Camaro and as such that exhaust pipe as pictured has now "self clearanced" itself with a few hard ground strikes.
You can see it's height relative to the pan. I'm not so sure a deep pan would work.
But, never say never. Nicely priced though. It's made it to my wish list.
I'll do a mid season fluid change after a few more miles and some additional track time next year. I could certainly do a trial fit and not be out much if it proves too low. I'd probably shear off the drain plain though.
I run that pan on my 4th gen. I wielded up the drain hole and moved it the side.
Like I said earlier, different builders will do things differently.
The experience of our last business would be that, Line Pressure at 200 Psi in 3rd-Gear, 4th-Gear and especially Lock-Up is going to be too low unless nearly all circuit leakage has been resolved.
Most DIY builders are not going to have all the typical circuit leaks taken care of.
I would put a relatively stiff Spring in with the Line Bias Valve to try and raise the Line Pressure.
Over all I would increase it to keep the 3-4 Clutch alive.
I would also put a strong Pump Slide Spring in to make sure that the Line Pressure does not drop when the Engine is under load.
At the minimum, I feel these should be addressed if not much more.
Like I said earlier, different builders will do things differently.
The experience of our last business would be that, Line Pressure at 200 Psi in 3rd-Gear, 4th-Gear and especially Lock-Up is going to be too low unless nearly all circuit leakage has been resolved.
Most DIY builders are not going to have all the typical circuit leaks taken care of.
I would put a relatively stiff Spring in with the Line Bias Valve to try and raise the Line Pressure.
Over all I would increase it to keep the 3-4 Clutch alive.
I would also put a strong Pump Slide Spring in to make sure that the Line Pressure does not drop when the Engine is under load.
At the minimum, I feel these should be addressed if not much more.
Well he could add that litle spring of mine to the boost valve , it would bring him up to about 220 225. and yes I actually block the line bias valve with a solid coil spring .
But I also saw he has the TG 2 and 3 kit installed so "assumed " much of that stuff is done,
I am a little surprised the lines not higher with the TG kit as it comes with a stiffer regulator spring . But I then saw he was only at 1000 rpm in test so just assumed that was all the pump could do at that RPM . I noted many times with test that I would need 1500 to 2000 rpm to get a true max line at WOT with both the 700r4 and the 4l60e depending of course on general pump condition and wear.
I noted once in a freshly machined perfect pump with no leaks and the slide stuck in place. The pump can make 400 plus psi and in fact with a pump like that the PR valve cannot get the presure low enough without the slide.
With his currrent set up I would imagine his WOT line is closer to 225 to as much as 250 at 2000 rpm or higher, Of course only actual measurement would tell .
As always your input is apreciated .
oh question is it ok when I addess you i used VORTECH 2 lol to avoid confusion ?
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; Sep 21, 2025 at 03:32 PM.
I pretty much see all that the same...
Except that the OP's Line Pressure only being 200 Psi in 3rd, 4th, Etc, is most likely due to some decent leakage.
His Line Pressure numbers were all decent otherwise.
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4L60 Operating Pressures 
