TC install help... too far from flywheel?
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TC install help... too far from flywheel? Alright... got the team tripp tranny up and got all except the top two bolts in the bellhousing. I went to go ahead and bolt up the torque converter to the flywheel (tci streetfighter) and there is a quarter inch or less of space between the lip that sits flush with the flywheel and has the holes for the bolts and the flywheel itself. Now, I'm thinking it will just draw the TC out of the tranny some when I put those bolts in, but I hope that's not a problem. I just wanted to make sure. Right now the converter still moves freely both ways.
So, am I still on track here or is something screwed up?
Also, what is the total capacity of the 4L60e? And is it true that I should fill it with like 4 quarts, and then crank and moee through all gears, and add as I need it?
Thanks a lot,
Derek
So, am I still on track here or is something screwed up?
Also, what is the total capacity of the 4L60e? And is it true that I should fill it with like 4 quarts, and then crank and moee through all gears, and add as I need it?
Thanks a lot,
Derek
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 269
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From: Mooresville, NC
Yes, there should be a small gap between the converter and the flywheel, and with the bellhousing bolts tight, the converter should spin freely both ways. It means that you DID get the converter fully seated and your right on track.
Don't rely on the converter bolts to pull the converter closer. There is a small hole in the bellhousing, use a screwdriver and pry the converter foward to push it against the flywheel, then install the bolts.
Total capacity should be around 11-12 quarts. Put in about 7 or 8, then start it up. Add fluid and re-check accordingly.
Don't rely on the converter bolts to pull the converter closer. There is a small hole in the bellhousing, use a screwdriver and pry the converter foward to push it against the flywheel, then install the bolts.
Total capacity should be around 11-12 quarts. Put in about 7 or 8, then start it up. Add fluid and re-check accordingly.
you need to contact the rebuilder and ask what that dimension is supposed to be. I have had to add shims to get that spaced correctly on my truck before. If the dimension is to great it will cause the converter to disengage with the pump. I used a good grade of stainless washers for shims in my truck. But i dont remember what the dimension was on my car. You will want to push the converter all the way into the transmission, with the housing completely bolted up then take the measurment between the converter pad and the flywheel.
Most common mistake that people make is not seating the converter all the way into the tranny. On an A4 F-body, you remove a plastic panel behind the starter and attach the flywheel to converter bolts through that hole, after some or all of the bellhousing bolts have been snugged up. With TCI's on F-bodys, I have not seen a case of the converter being too far from the flywheel. The converter bolt holes have little "brackets" around them and always came pretty close to the flywheel once we had reinstalled the bellhousing bolts.Could it be a truck thing?
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Thanks for the reply Bernard and everyone else.
As far as contacting the builder... he was the first one to reply to this post. (Thanks man, nice service!).
And guys... its not that far, I'm talking maybe an 1/4th.... well more like 1/8th of an inch. I just know that tolerances are tight and I want to be on the money.
Bernard--- I can't wait till sunday when I get some time to finish the install. Hopefully my new tune will be in by then, and I can drive it around. What kinda break-in time should I give it before I really give it some gas and see how it performs?
PS: Bernard..... Southeastern just plain mangled my cooler. I'm not going to make a deal of it because 1) its free and 2) I've got a B&M cooler somewhere in the storage house that I bought for my old truck a while back. I just have to tear threw that storage room and find it.
-Derek
As far as contacting the builder... he was the first one to reply to this post. (Thanks man, nice service!).
And guys... its not that far, I'm talking maybe an 1/4th.... well more like 1/8th of an inch. I just know that tolerances are tight and I want to be on the money.
Bernard--- I can't wait till sunday when I get some time to finish the install. Hopefully my new tune will be in by then, and I can drive it around. What kinda break-in time should I give it before I really give it some gas and see how it performs?
PS: Bernard..... Southeastern just plain mangled my cooler. I'm not going to make a deal of it because 1) its free and 2) I've got a B&M cooler somewhere in the storage house that I bought for my old truck a while back. I just have to tear threw that storage room and find it.
-Derek
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 269
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From: Mooresville, NC
Derek, The only real "break in" required is to run it up through the gears a few times to get all the air out from behind the pistons. After that, drive it like you stole it.
Sorry about the cooler. Southeastern has had a stellar reputation, I use them for everything I ship out. If you can't find your other cooler, please let me know and I'll get another one headed your way.
Sorry about the cooler. Southeastern has had a stellar reputation, I use them for everything I ship out. If you can't find your other cooler, please let me know and I'll get another one headed your way.
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The final clearence should be .080" minimum to .125" maximum. If you need to install shims to achieve this clearence, the shims "must" be "identical" in thickness (at all three corners), to have this happen. Drive easy for the first 10 miles manually shifting the transmission to get rid of the air in the servos, accumulators, clutch packs, etc. After the 10 miles you will need to add some fluid (about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart) to get it to read right. For the next 10 miles, start to drive more normally, after 20 miles (if everything is fine) you should be able to drive it like you want.
Last edited by Pro Built Automatics; Sep 16, 2004 at 07:06 AM.
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