timelord

No deal,I know most if not all RACE cars run the TH or Glide[whatever that is],I have seen some 200 but mostly on extremely violent set ups.

Why it works for Rick I don't know,I just hope it works as well for me,but I have nowhere near his power nor do I plan on ever having to trailer my car.

My Converter is a COAN 3200[lock up],my rear is a 9" locker 4.11 gears so I figure I should be running 2600 +or- at 70mph with a good tranny cooler and frequent oil changes I hope it will last as well as my T56 [2800 + 1/4 mile runs] which has never been serviced besides yearly oil changes.

What do you think about my planned set up?

Are my calculations about right,I now run 12.4s [1.80 60 ft]leaving at 1600/1800 RPM,if I leave at a flashed 3400 I shoulf theoretically be a little faster if I can get my 60 down into the high 1.60s should yield about 12.20/12.30?

SDB

iTrader: (7)

Get a Rossler if you want a serious 4L60E...period. I have had these trannies since 1990 (700R4). Very pleased. I have a 2000 Camaro that pust 580 rwhp and 644 rtque on a Mustang dyno (unlocked converter), full weight car (about 4000 lbs race weight)...tranny is perfect. I run it hard on the street, hook up very nicely (1.59 on 17 in. drag radials). Speed Inc trannies have failed several times on some 11 to 13 second cars aound here on radials. My tranny was $3771 shipped to me, using my core, so it is not a cheap option, but if you relly want a 4l60E in a 10 second or faster 4000 lb. car that doesn't need constant rebuilds (maybe every couple years), go with Rossler. Have heard good things about century, but never seen or had their product.

SDB

Jip99z

iTrader: (1)

Are you kidding me??? the most ive ever seen a LOADED fbody bring on a scale is about 3800. 3900 if you look like santa maybe.

Anyways, the 4l60e can handle the power. Ive been playing with one in my car for quite some time now. Went out a week or 2 ago and put down a 6.80 @100 in the 1/8 and shifted perfectly hot lapping 6 passes within 30mins. 60' times are Consistant 1.48 & 1.49 through a 12 bolt & 3.73 eaton and a custom stall. And for you guys going with a 400, thats a little over kill and its robbing way too much power. Theres only 1 or 2 cars I know of that should be using them and they have glides. If anybody is interested in whats been done to it, send me a PM and I can give you some info. Thanks, JP.

PS. The times above are with limited weight reduction. Only the front bumper, egr, & ac have been removed.

SDB

iTrader: (7)

[QUOTE=Jip99z]Are you kidding me??? the most ive ever seen a LOADED fbody bring on a scale is about 3800. 3900 if you look like santa maybe.

Well, I must be Santa! I was 417 lbs when I raced it last (down 80 lbs now), plus 3550 car weight, plus about 50 lbs miscellaneous nitrous electronic stuff. Boom, 4000lbs race weight.

I agree, 4l60E is the way to go, even in the 9's...I hope to get there next summer (10's now)

Automatics

I put this unit together (4L60E) near the beginning of 2003, since then he has put on over 700+ runs on this unit using the Borg Warner Hi-Energy 9 clutch 3-4 setup (with turbulator holes), with no problems. He is turning 10.20's - 10.30's at 131 - 132+ mph, and 1.32 - 1.36 60 foot times (9" drag radial slicks), this is with a muffled exhaust, running a 383 ci. motor, shifting at apx. 7,100 rpm limit. Because of the computer limiting the rpm's of the motor, (7,140 rpms) he had to back down on the rear end gear ratio (4.56 to 4.30), this slowed his 60 foot ET's. Once the computer problems are solved, he will change the rear end gear ratio to the 4.56's, & get back those 60 foot times.

Wicked_Hugger99

iTrader: (1)

If ur making 390rwhp but only traping at 110mph (assuming the verter is good) could your tranny be slipping and in need of a rebuild? Car is around 3600lbs and when i ran it the weather was good but i was expecting to hit around 114-115mph which is what most guys hit w/ that kinda power right? Any suggestions?

Dragbear

Ok guys this is the skinny on my 4L60E.

The car weighs with me in it 3320. I run a 9" with 4:30 gears and 30x9 raidal tires with 21psi in them. The motor is a 383 LT1 with a cheap set of Trick Flow heads. 180cc runners that have max flow of 256@.550 lift. It makes very close to 500 rwh.
My best 60' was a 1.28 with a 9.5" vigalanty 4200 non lock converter with 4.56 gears. I broke the gear set and replaced it with the 4:30s because the stock pcm will not turn over 7000 rpm. With the 430s I shift at 6800 and go through the traps at 6900. The 4l60Es tend to have a lot more converter slippage (12%) than other tranys (6%). It is not the converter because I have tried a lot of them and they were all the same. I have replaced the 9.5" converter with an 8" from ATI (4200 stall). It gives me the same 60' with a better midrange.
I will be going back to the 4:56 gears and 60's in the 1.2s as soon as Ed Wright figuars out how to get the stock pcm to run over 7000. Alot of people thing they are turning over 7000 but if they are using the factory tack it is way off above 6000. Mine reads over 8000 going through the traps.
As far as the trany the only problem with them is the 3-4 clutch pack. If you can get it to live you got it made. I have allways run a good syn. trany fluid and had to replace the 3-4 twice a year. 2 years ago I hook up with Dana from Probuilt and he had put together a new style 3-4 clutch pack. I had installed it at the start of last season and is still in the trany today.This trany is showing no sine of slippage. My information is very acurate because I run an Auto Meter data recorder that records line pressure, trany temp, engine rps, and drive shaft speed on every run.
At the track I always run both classes, mine (footbrake) and the (electrionc). I have won 5 championships in 4 years with this car and the only driver at our track to ever win the championship in both classes the same year. I avrage 25 runs a week end every weekend. This trany has over 1000 runs on it to date. I broke it only 1 time when the spot welds let loose on the 2nd gear band. I pulled it down only far enough to look at the 3-4 clutches and put them right back in with a new band and haven't touched yet. I had around 600 runs on it at that time.

For more information on the trany call *1-800-not-a-sponsor*

Zippinzee

I was under the impression that the turbo buick 200 was an inferior trans to the 4l60e and the buick guys have made them reliable in their cars and I am sure that the 4l60e can too in time.

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

It's not a matter of if the 4L60E fails, it's when! At 300rwhp it will last longer than at 400rwhp, which will last longer than at 500rwhp, and so forth. At the 550+rwhp level, I'd guess you'd get maybe 15 pull passes before it died, if you're lucky.

SDB

iTrader: (7)

Well, actually my car, which is very very heavy, is making 580 rwhp and 644 rwtque on a mustang Dyno (well over 600 rwhp and 660 rwtqe on a dyo jet), and my trany ahs been fine for over a year. Been to the track a couple of times, and race it on the street often. 1.59 60 ft. on 17 in. radials, so it is hooking decent and putting stress on drivetrain. I will post if something goes wrong with my Rossler tranny, but doubt that it will. I will pull it every two years and have it rebuilt though just to be safe.

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you become a sponsor on this board?

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to see them become a sponsor here too. Maybe you can call them and ask 'em

Zo6Killer

The Transmission I bought for my now-sold '87 GN was a 2004R. It was built by Jack Cottons' guy at Cottons' Performance. I talked to the tranny guy on the phone, and he guaranteed it for 12MO-12K down to a 9.99!! I think that would handle your needs.