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Help...I was told this is a PCM/Tuning problem.

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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 07:31 PM
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Default Help...I was told this is a PCM/Tuning problem.

While cruising normally at say 65 mph, and I gently apply more pedal just to gradually speed up a little bit, nothing happens and it just revs right to my redline if I let it. The car doesn't move at all. But before I applied the extra pedal it was cruising perfectly at the proper rpm for that speed. I have to either hit the brake and let it slow down a little OR manually downshift to "3", then back to "D" for it to hook back up.

When I let it hook back up it will stay hooked up as fast as I want to go, it only does this weird un-hooking thing after I'm cruising steady for a little while.

Other than this, the tranny/converter seems to work perfectly during all other types and speeds of driving.

One more thing I notice in every gear: If I mash the gas all the way to the floor, it will over-rev for a second at the top of each gear before it shifts.

Thanks.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 07:43 PM
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Sounds like it's time for a trans rebuild... Check the fluid to see if it's burnt...

When my 2nd trans went, if I mashed the gas it'd rev up like it was in neutral (from a stop or roll) but if I eased into it, it'd be ok most of the time... generally i'd have to feather the gas to get it to shift gears...

Did this start happening immediately after you got a new tune? If not, then it's definetly not the tune and most likely the transmission

I don't know transmissions well enough to know exactly what's going on though... so not sure what actual parts may be busted if it is the trans...
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by horist
Sounds like it's time for a trans rebuild... Check the fluid to see if it's burnt...

When my 2nd trans went, if I mashed the gas it'd rev up like it was in neutral (from a stop or roll) but if I eased into it, it'd be ok most of the time... generally i'd have to feather the gas to get it to shift gears...

Did this start happening immediately after you got a new tune? If not, then it's definetly not the tune and most likely the transmission

I don't know transmissions well enough to know exactly what's going on though... so not sure what actual parts may be busted if it is the trans...
It did start after my new 436 and FLP IV tranny went in this past July. I sent my tranny back to FLP and it was totally rebuilt. It hasen't been raced since, just street driving.

Fluid is full and very clean. No burnt smell at all.

I guess its the tune than.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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so, if you're cruising at 65, and increase the throttle... does it downshift then bang the limiter? or does it feel like it's going into neutral? (65mph in w/locked converter is prolly 2400 RPM or so?) so it goes from 2400 up to red line and still in OD?
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by horist
so, if you're cruising at 65, and increase the throttle... does it downshift then bang the limiter? or does it feel like it's going into neutral? (65mph in w/locked converter is prolly 2400 RPM or so?) so it goes from 2400 up to red line and still in OD?
It doesn't downshift, it stays in "OD" and just revs up as far as I let it go. I get zero acceleration.

I can also take my foot off-and-on the gas and nothing happens, its just like it popped into nuetral. I have to manually shift it to "3" to make it hook up again.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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hmmm... there's nothing in tuning that I can think of that can cause that to happen... when you get it on it, the PCM can command the torque converter to lock or unlock and can command the car to change gears... Line pressure is controlled via the vacuum line (Vacuum modulated) ...

sounds like under high torque either the converter is slipping like crazy or the transmission isn't able to hold the gear
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 11:57 AM
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Damn man, I just can't get a break. I almost want to buy a new tranny and a new PCM and a new converter to just start over. This is the 3rd NEW tranny I've had and the third NEW converter, and the 3rd NEW tune, this just sucks.

Maybe I'll get lucky and Futral can figure out whats wrong when he does all my engine upgrades and gives it yet another new tune.

Thanks anyway for the help.
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 12:18 PM
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You should use a scanning software and log what is happening when this occurs. Get speed, gear commanded, TCC commanded, TPS, load, line pressure, and anything else available that is trans related from your software.


You always post about racing from a roll, 50 - 150 mph. Maybe its time for a M6 swap and sintered iron clutch.
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 12:27 PM
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Either go with a built 6 speed and or do an a3, those 4l60e's are junk.
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Orange Crush 408
Either go with a built 6 speed and or do an a3, those 4l60e's are junk.
I want an auto for daily driving reasons. Maybe a 4L80E is in my future, those are pretty much unbreakable, right?
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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the 80's wont fit in the tunnel they are massive and you would have to end up beating or cutting the floor, i would either got with a 350 or 400 set up. i have a built tranny that sitting the back of the shop snice i dediced to swap out the trannys. theres maybe 100 miles on the damn thing im jus tgoin with more power with the new set up.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by smokn346
the 80's wont fit in the tunnel they are massive and you would have to end up beating or cutting the floor, i would either got with a 350 or 400 set up. i have a built tranny that sitting the back of the shop snice i dediced to swap out the trannys. theres maybe 100 miles on the damn thing im jus tgoin with more power with the new set up.
I was told it would only require some banging in the tunnel with a hammer to make it fit fine.
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 01:41 AM
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The 80's do fit and has been done. Maybe they'll chime in here, I can't remember their screen names. Stock 80's have held up better than "built" 60's that cost twice as much.
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