TH350 endplay problems
01-28-2005, 10:53 PM
#1
TH350 endplay problems I built a th350 for a kid at work, he has a '86 camaro with a stock 305, it lasted about 2000-3000 miles before it fried the friction off the forward clutches. The low/reverse were slightly burned also. But the second and direct clutches were ok.
I did the rebuild for cost so i built it with the worst core I had which was a '71 with all brass thrust washers.
I replaced all the washers, bushings, bearings, had a governor bore bushing put in, borg warner clutches, sealing rings, etc. And a superior products shift kit.
End play was a problem before, I had to use a .080 thrust washer for the pump AND a torrington bearing. That gave it .015 endplay.
The oil feed holes still lined up though.
Now i took it apart and found the pump was worn pretty bad, the inner gear ate into the back of the pump and the fit on the converter drive hub was real loose. It might have been overlooked before because I know I installed the converter right.
He did say it would feel like it was in neutral until he gave it gas, sometimes.
It's back together now cleaned out with a different pump, forward drum and it's going in tomorrow.
Any ideas why it would need a .080 shim to get the endplay set right?
Think this will be a problem?
This is the first transmission i ever built that failed.
I did the rebuild for cost so i built it with the worst core I had which was a '71 with all brass thrust washers.
I replaced all the washers, bushings, bearings, had a governor bore bushing put in, borg warner clutches, sealing rings, etc. And a superior products shift kit.
End play was a problem before, I had to use a .080 thrust washer for the pump AND a torrington bearing. That gave it .015 endplay.
The oil feed holes still lined up though.
Now i took it apart and found the pump was worn pretty bad, the inner gear ate into the back of the pump and the fit on the converter drive hub was real loose. It might have been overlooked before because I know I installed the converter right.
He did say it would feel like it was in neutral until he gave it gas, sometimes.
It's back together now cleaned out with a different pump, forward drum and it's going in tomorrow.
Any ideas why it would need a .080 shim to get the endplay set right?
Think this will be a problem?
This is the first transmission i ever built that failed.
01-29-2005, 10:45 AM
#2
failed
Originally Posted by jxaxsxoxn
I built a th350 for a kid at work, he has a '86 camaro with a stock 305, it lasted about 2000-3000 miles before it fried the friction off the forward clutches. The low/reverse were slightly burned also. But the second and direct clutches were ok.
I did the rebuild for cost so i built it with the worst core I had which was a '71 with all brass thrust washers.
I replaced all the washers, bushings, bearings, had a governor bore bushing put in, borg warner clutches, sealing rings, etc. And a superior products shift kit.
End play was a problem before, I had to use a .080 thrust washer for the pump AND a torrington bearing. That gave it .015 endplay.
The oil feed holes still lined up though.
Now i took it apart and found the pump was worn pretty bad, the inner gear ate into the back of the pump and the fit on the converter drive hub was real loose. It might have been overlooked before because I know I installed the converter right.
He did say it would feel like it was in neutral until he gave it gas, sometimes.
It's back together now cleaned out with a different pump, forward drum and it's going in tomorrow.
Any ideas why it would need a .080 shim to get the endplay set right?
Think this will be a problem?
This is the first transmission i ever built that failed.
I did the rebuild for cost so i built it with the worst core I had which was a '71 with all brass thrust washers.
I replaced all the washers, bushings, bearings, had a governor bore bushing put in, borg warner clutches, sealing rings, etc. And a superior products shift kit.
End play was a problem before, I had to use a .080 thrust washer for the pump AND a torrington bearing. That gave it .015 endplay.
The oil feed holes still lined up though.
Now i took it apart and found the pump was worn pretty bad, the inner gear ate into the back of the pump and the fit on the converter drive hub was real loose. It might have been overlooked before because I know I installed the converter right.
He did say it would feel like it was in neutral until he gave it gas, sometimes.
It's back together now cleaned out with a different pump, forward drum and it's going in tomorrow.
Any ideas why it would need a .080 shim to get the endplay set right?
Think this will be a problem?
This is the first transmission i ever built that failed.
01-29-2005, 04:53 PM
#3
John, I think the inside of the inner pump gear was loose and I didn't catch it the first time. We got it running today and it shifts better than it did the last time. Last time must have been running low pressure from the start.
What do you think about the .080 pump shim? Is it normal to need to add this much to get the endplay within spec? I had to use the same shim this time too.
What do you think about the .080 pump shim? Is it normal to need to add this much to get the endplay within spec? I had to use the same shim this time too.
01-31-2005, 11:27 PM
#4
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Hey jxaxsoxn, sounds like you build for fun, well I did post my number again, its 508-858-9003, sorry to brake ya thread but had a question. I ended up getin my 4l60e from the dealer, the gave the best warranty, I think I told you, (50,000 or 3 years), I had a question, the one I pulled was a rebuilt from GM, but I know it was past the warranty because I bought it with 96,000 and I got it up to almost 160,000 with no troubles at all, never slipped or nothing, I was on Ice and sped up and hit the brakes slidin and heard a thump and there she went. So my question is, it came shipped the a braket holding the converter in place, I broke the Park nutrual switch tryin to take it off, it was heated so bad it was a bit bent up, but anyways, everyone including the GM said to flush the cooling coils, first of all, this was my first time tryin, I had to buy a crap load of tools, metric mostly. But I have spend 1600 for trans and about 300 in everything else, but atleast I keep the tools, now how do I flush the cooling system without going out to buy something that cost a crap load of money or lose more time. Hey its funny, I noticed a big oil leak when I went under, so I went at that while under there and hear we went again with taken the whole truck apart again to ad to my work, nothin at all was easy to me about the job, lol, my first time and it had to be a 4x4, with only the haynes as my guilde. 4 days, running back and forth for this and that, man, its been crazy, Im so tired but now got to put it all back. This is the tricky part, lol. I will check ya post in the morning, give me a call if you have time in the morning ok? I have sprint to sprint, its free if your a sprint cust, ok? Hope to hear from you soon. Any post or help is good too, take care bro.
