KCamaro

Its pretty easy. Turn off traction control (on equipped cars), push gas pedal to floor, if your tires spin back out and ease back in as your car speeds up. Leave the damn thing in drive. If you really want to make the manual guys feel bad race them from a dig. It is much harder for a manual car to get out of the hole than an auto for the simple reason that the auto dosnt have to worry about clutching. If you want to trounce a stick from a roll by a stall (torque convertor) and not only will your car be faster than an otherwise equal stick, but you'll notice signifigant gains in performance.

As far as getting beat by a foxbody... Either it wasnt stock and would be something you shouldnt mess with, you really really cannot drive (yes even with an automatic), or your just making it up.

KCamaro

A 2.4 is your best 60? How far are you backing out? If you back off the throttle 100% then stomp it to flash it back into 1st gear and peddle out enough to accelerate your going to stay in first gear... no upshit involved. Or when you launch press it halfway immediately and slowly work it to the floor as the car speeds up. No way you'll shift prematurely if you work on the timing a little.

Arkangel77

iTrader: (2)

OK - I have read threw this post and I got a question or 2. SOmeone set me streight. The trany Guy who Built my Trany after it went out told me I should ALWAYS leave the Line in Low 1. He said that Locked all the clutches in place and instead of using only a few it used them all when I launched. I also spoke with the PC programer when he programed the car and said to let the Trany shift itself! He said you wont do it anny better than the PC does. NOW I got a Bud who always races in D and last week he blew his trany! He lost 3/4 (or D/OD) but the 1st and 2nd gears are fine. It seems like the fact he was NOT starting off in low 1 and that he blew the top 2 but dident hurt the bottom 2 gears proves that thewre is a benifit to starting in Low 1? I am no expert and I am sorry if this is old to you BUT I am just trying to understand how you ahould lauch, why is that the best place & what happens with the clutches when you do? I guess whats got me stumped is the Trany Builder (who has a great rep for knowing his stuff) told me to ALWAYS launch in low 1? Can someone explain the whole cluch thing to me again please? Thanks, Lata, Ark

KCamaro

His 3/4 going out has nothing to do with him not attempting to manually shift an automatic transmission. The 4l60E is junk, and 3/4 goes out on a regular basis under anything much more than stock. You cannot shift better than the computer can shift. The computer does not have human error, and is blatently faster. Launch in D, race in D, drive in D, use D. 1 and 2 are there for circumstances that require you to stay in those low gears (e.g. towing, snow driving)

Arkangel77

iTrader: (2)

I never claimed to be able to shift better than the Trany. Forget about who shifts better or worse. Can anyone tell me why it is or is NOT safer (stronger) to start off in first? DOes having it in first lock all the clutches up like I was told? Thats the part I am not understanding. I know the Trany can shift itself better than I can. Thanks for the reply. Lata, ark

Arkangel77

iTrader: (2)

This is what I am unclear about. Are thoes 10 or 12 clutches locked in when you go into any of 1st threw 3rd or is it oNLY when you are in 1st? Thats what I dont know? Can someone expound?

Black02Z71

In manual 1st the LO/REV clutch is applied, and the LO/ROLLER clutch is holding. In 2,D or OD the LO/REV clutch is not applied.

The OVERRUN clutch is applied in all positions expect OD, this provides engine braking.

This is from the ATSG 4L60E manual.

02Hawk502

Okay, when you're in manual first, you have 2 more clutch sets applied than when you're in 1st gear with the shifter in OD. The Lo/Reverse clutch set is applied for added strength, and the Overrun clutch set is applied to provide engine braking. So basically, being in manual first and accelerating, you only have one more clutch set providing strength.

As for the other gears, the same clutches are applied no matter where the shifter handle is, with the exception of the Overrun clutches, which again, are only there to provide engine braking.

Hope that clears up some of your questions.

EDIT: ^^^^^He types faster than I

Arkangel77

iTrader: (2)

SO it seems like BY trany Builder was correct then and its safer/stronger (as far as clutches go) to start off on LOW 1. Thats what he told me BUT I never got an explination as clearly as yours just was. Thank you. Ark

deetsnai

are u all to stupid to see that his posts are BS from a ford guy...fuckiin christ

nakedavalanche

Boy is their a lot of slamming going on here........

Manual shifting will not do anything because all you do is hold the gear longer than you should, and when you move the stick it lets the tranny shift. You dont move anything but a stick. If you want fast down shift push the trailer button if you have a truck that will help. If you have a sports car get it tuned........... A trans go will help check out e-bay for the best deals so for........

Stu'sWS6

iTrader: (3)

I have had the trans-go shift kit in a 4l60e and I think that it's a waste unless you're getting the car tuned-the torque management really gets irritated from the kit and a high stall converter(mine was an st4000). I manually shifted my bolt on 99 a4 to a 12.01-the car was untuned and wouldn't shift on its own for crap. I wouldn't call it power shifting, thats a stick thing

nakedavalanche

Well the reason peaople like to race starting in first low 1 is to ensure they are locked in low one. I have seen times when the tranny seams to be in 2nd gear not in first when taking off. I like to drag in low one, and when I am moving I nock it up and let the tranny do the shifting for me. The reason people loose gears is because of to much slipage. If you run your stuff hard get a trans-go shift kit it will hold the bands tight so you dont slip. GM makes their tranny good for 80 year old ladys to drive and 18 year old kids. Its just that all day, all year long hard shifting under wot will wair your tranny out..........my 2-3 went with 18000 miles under it. It was just worn out, not broke but worn out. I hit it hard every day and I am pushing 100 hp over stock...... hope this helps

gwcrim

No, really CONSISTANT cars use automatics. A trick clutch and stick set up is going to be quicker. I'm talking soft clutch, metal pucks, deep first gear...

Autos are great for bracket racing where consistancy rules.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

I should take a video 'manual shifting' at wot, if i waited untill the tac read 6000-6100 to shift it'll hit the limiter almost every time, every gear. especially 2-3 its slower to react.

Gwcrim, fast and consistant cars can use autos. Many cars equipped with Pglides can make 7 second passes with less maintence than a manual.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

BREAK-----
This is not A3/4 vs. M5/6 Topic, that was debated before!!

SmokingWS6, I would think if your waiting on the stock to read rpms to shift, thats part of the problem w/ the RL. Its slow! And if you realized this you could always shift when the stock slow POS Tach reaches around 5800 instead of 6000.

I will say I dont agree with the reasoning that its ok to manually shift the A4 due to better clutch strength. If in fact, which it seems to be, there are more clutches engaged when locking into 1st, then I could see using 1st at the line, then going to D after that, but for me the risk of hitting the RL isnt worth it, I'm not worthy

With that, it sure would be nice for some sponsors to hop in threads like this where the professional who builds trans for a living can offer input, maybe one did and I missed it. I wouldnt consider it pimping their product, just a good reliable source of info! Any trans building sponsor feel like chiming in????

Charlie

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

What I was sayin' waaaaaay earlier in this thread is that if I break traction in first gear when launching and have to feather out of it, I don't worry about it hitting second gear and screwing my launch even worse. You can launch in 1st gear and still let the computer shift for you if you shift it just right ... just a technique that works best for me and is consisitent for me. If you hav edrag radials and can nail it everytime and get a good hook everytime, then, launching is 3rd is best, of course.

studlybilly

The MAX clutches your transmission will engage is in first gear manual yes.

studlybilly

Dont forget to double clutch, saw how important that was in a movie once.

JRC

The way I do it is this:
In the water box I put it in drive and warm the tires until the trans shifts into 2nd then let it come out of the water and select drive to light the pre-stage lights.This allows you to slip it into N which keeps the trans cooler and allows you to hold it there until the other car is pre-staged then bump it into getting the stage lights on. At that point I shift into 3rd which with 3:42 gears it will be ok to go thru the ET lights and not shift into OD in the MPH traps,which will slow you down a little.
Do what you like,but this works for me.