Ok, My car has 65000 miles on it and the trans. I bought and instaulled a 3800 TCI converter two weeks ago. I changed the front seal, the rear seal, the filter and the fluid. I filled the converter before instauling it.

Here is my question. Now I keep getting a service vehical light coming on. It will go away if shut the car off. I have even seen it come on then a little while latter go off. I called the local dealer and they told me I had a light out somewere on the car causing the service vehical light come on. Man if I do it must be the light in the closet because I can not find a bad light.

But here is the thing that makes me think it is the trans causing it. It started after I installed the converter and does not come on unless I go to WOT. Also when I am at part throttle, and it shifts from 2-3 I get a clunking noise. Now that started after I installed the BMR Torque arm last weekend. It does not do it when I am at WOT. I know everything back there is tight, I went over it three different times. I am sure it always did it but it is now magnafied due to the torque arm and due to the fact I instaulled the crossbar to high and it is touching the tunnel brace mount now. I will fix that tomorrow and I bet the noise goes away.

But here is the thing, when it shifts it is week as hell, and it feals like it pulls the car down or slows it down when it shifts. I have LS1 Edit but I have not played with the trans files in it.

Does it sound like there is something wrong with my trans?

Also, how strong do you think the lock up is in that converter? I do not want to smoke it or anything. What should I do to the trans to make it shift firm?

 

Prolly nothing wrong with the trans on shifts(trq managment is deleted?).Stall convertors really suck up part throttle shift feeel.I would get a TRANS GO brand shift kit in it though.I believe th part # is 4L60E-HD.A cooler is a good idea also.

 

You should read the code and tell us what it says.
I presume you have some sort of logger, ATAP or EFILive,
if you are LS1-Edit-ing?

My TCI3000 clutch has always been low on holding
power. Maybe, or not, due to using B&M Trick Shift
on it as a baby (baaddd....). I wouldn't expect much
more out of an even lighter, smaller-diameter converter.

Lightweight converters aggravate misfire codes and
this may defeat lockup.

I also have a little clunk-clunk on the part throttle 2-3.
I am not sure if it's settings or hydraulics. Been told that
this has been a characteristic of the 700R4 and 4L60e,
something about 2nd disengaging and 3rd engaging too
far apart, my GM mechanic buddy says the shift kits help
only a little. Maybe there's some special trick hole-drilling
that could help it out but I'm not ready to go there....

 

The only scanner I have at this time is LS1 Scan. I got rid of my clunking noise Today. It was the torque arm cross bar touching the passenger side tunnel brace mount. I removed the mount and made clearance between the crossbar and floor pan. Noise gone. So it was acting like a big drum and magnifying the normal thing it does from 2-3. Now it sounds like it always did since I got the car new. So I am happy again.

I did have a few instances last week of it turning the lock up off. My buddies code reader said silonoid b stuck or something like that. I figured out what I did wrong though. I set all my shift times to 0.000. this was causing the codes. I bumped them up to 0.200 and the lock up issue went away.

Now the only thing going on with it since I added all this stuff is while driving, I will get a service vehicale light coming on. When you shut the car off and start it back up it goes away for a while. I do not know what the code is. This is not the same light as the SES light. It is a different light. I did notice durring a scanning session today with LS1 Scan, that when the light came on my open/closed loop window went from saying closed loop to closed loop error. So I think it has something to do with the closed loop curcit. I do not have my rear O2 sensors installed into the exhaust system. I do have them plugged in but they are tie-raped to the car. I did this to keep the plugs from getting screwed up from being left open. I turned the SES codes off in LS1 Edit for those sensors. I am thinking the computer is seeing there is a problem with these sensors, so I am going to have some O2 sensor bungs put on my y-pipe next week and reinstall them. I took them out of the exhaust when I removed my cats.

Any other ideas what might cause that light to come on?

 

Like jimmy said,it's going to be best to scan the code and post what it is.

 

I'll check to see if has one today