Does someone know of a site or can someone tell me how to wire one in ? I've heard people getting good results from it and would like more info ..
Thanks

 

I've always read about this, and for some reason it just doesn't click in my head as to exactly what manually locking the converter does.... <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> Sorry, just looking for more info. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

- Matt

 

Anyone...

 

i'm not exactly sure how to explain what it does beside lock the converter, but i can tell you before and after.i know of three people who have these on street cars and there is a big dif. in racing on the street.these cars have h/c conv./gear and at top end where they would get pulled by h/c m6 cars when they flip the switch they pull like the m6 cars.maybe someone else can explain the exacts but that's what i've seen.

 

Tim, talk to Paul @ Thunder. He made a lockup switch for his Vig 3600 and it worked great. Real easy to wire and setup.

Jason

 

First you need to figure out the pin number of the wire off the pcm that controls convertor lockup. I think you can find it at ls1info or even at the dreaded LS1.com if you can get it to load. At LS1.com it'll be in the pcm pin assignment topic that eboggs brings to the top every few hours. Maybe its even on this site, I haven't looked here for it.

Once you figure out the pin number, tap the wire and run it to a 2 connection toggle switch. The other connection of the switch goes to a ground.

That's it and don't blow your car up.

 

Is the converter lock up switch only for Vig? I haven't seen anyone with a YANK converter use one <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> I'm getting a YANK TP4400 and i'm wondering if I will need it (or will help me)?

TIA

 

I am interested in that lock up switch also!! I might have to try that!! <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]Originally posted by Jason99T/A:
<strong>Tim, talk to Paul @ Thunder. He made a lockup switch for his Vig 3600 and it worked great. Real easy to wire and setup.

Jason</strong><hr></blockquote>

Thanks Jason but Tim98T/A sent me the diagram for the switch..If anyone else needs it I can send it to ya'll...

 

This is just what i have READ so dont take my word on this.. however I think if you have an extrmely efficient converter, (like most Yanks) it doesnt seem to help you, thats why you see all the Vigilante guys runnin them <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Sean

 

[quote]Originally posted by So Slow:
<strong>

Thanks Jason but Tim98T/A sent me the diagram for the switch..If anyone else needs it I can send it to ya'll...</strong><hr></blockquote>

So Slow, can you send the info to me? the PCM pin page on that other site is not loading for some reason..

Thanks,

Chuck

lunaticta@bellsouth.net

 

Here's the scoop:

All torque coverters slip to a varying degree. Some more than others. Our elctronic trannies have a lockup switch that that locks the converter where there is no slip. this is what happens in overdrive. Those with high stalls no what I'm talking about ( when your part throttle in third gear, and you get that WHAM lockup when it switches to OD ).

Basically when the lockup solenoid is grounded it locks up the converter. There is a wire going from the computer to you solenoid that handles the lockup.

To install a switch you first have to know which wire controls this function ( I had a list but unfortunately don't have it now ).

This is how I did it:

1) pull caps off computer to get to where the wires exit the cap.

2) Splice into the wire controlling the lockup solenoid. Once you learn the wire # its simple...the wires are numbered on the computer cap.

3) remove the computer (just remove a couple screws if memory servers me, and it comes right out.

4) Once the pcm is out, behind where it was, you will see a rubber grommet going into the passenger compartment. I took an Ice pick..and poked a hole in it, and ran the wire I spliced into the passenger compartment.

5) pull console, and drill hole in ashtray to mount a small momentary switch ( only on when its pushed ) into the ashtray.

6) run wire I fed into passenger compartment behind dash, up into console, and solder to one side of the momentary switch.

7) Pulled ground/power plug off ofthe back of the lighter. Solder small peice of wire to lighter ground, and reconnect plug

8) solder other end of wire to switch

9) reassemble console

10) reassemble pcm

11) now when you hit the switch in your ashtray..it grounds the lockup solenoid, and it locks the converter


I can provide some pics too, although some are fuzzy.

P.S. some people have noticed this throwing a SES light. It never has for me.

PaiN

 

I have also heard of this same set up using an RPM switch.

 

Don't some GN/GNX guys lock up by an RPM switch?

 

could you send me the diagram to Sprimeau@wi.rr.com

 

HEy I have a question. I already have the lock up switch installed and I was wondering what the correct rpm would be to use it. Ive heard if the converter is locked to early it will actually slow the car down . What rom are you guys locking up ?


Jeremy

 

Were ever your car makes max power say 6300. I would be locking 200 or 300 hundred rpms more. as far as locking at the track i was locking way to early. Right when i shifted into second i was locking and it really killed my et. Some guys say lock it in third in the big end but i think thats pointless since your haveing to lock above your powerband.And most guys are going threw the traps below there powerband. Next time i go to the track i'm going to try locking up at the top of second.And try not locking at all to see the diffrance. if anybody needs the pin number to the lockup wire i'll look and post it.

 

So Slow, if you could send me that diagram, it would be great... JoeKreke@aol.com

 

does anyone know which wire it is?

 

Slow I would like a copy of that diagram too
jsbird98@comcast.net

So when do you hit the switch? 70-80mph?
Thanks,
Jeremy