STR--- what to get..
STR--- what to get.. Currently i have a midwest 3,000 stall 2.0str. I have suspension mods like lower controll arms, adj torque arm, adj qa1 shocks in the rear, subframes and panhard rod. Im looking at getting a new converter like 3,500-3,800 and was thinking of a lower str to keep the tires from blowing off. I have seen the older yank's 3,500 with a 1.6str and seen people had decent gains with it. My car is mostly street driven, sees the track maybe 10 times a year and of course messing around on the street. I do have nitto drag radials and its sometimes hard to hook up. My 60's are 2.0-2.2 in cold weather(55* and less). I havent really tried the track in warmer weather so that could be why i spin so bad(yea i do heat them up, 10sec).
So in my case what str would you go with on a 3,500-3,800 stall. Any experience you have had, espically guys that changed converters in a similar situation as im in would be great....
So in my case what str would you go with on a 3,500-3,800 stall. Any experience you have had, espically guys that changed converters in a similar situation as im in would be great....
yea but how the hell do you get the car to hook, i mean i tried all kinds of ways. Feather it out, from idle, flashing and so on. Hell i have been racing on and off since 1995, had an elcamino before this with 420 hp and didnt have nearly as hard a time hooking up and i didnt even have drag radials on the car...
Originally Posted by BubaGumpShrimp
Currently i have a midwest 3,000 stall 2.0str. I have suspension mods like lower controll arms, adj torque arm, adj qa1 shocks in the rear, subframes and panhard rod. Im looking at getting a new converter like 3,500-3,800 and was thinking of a lower str to keep the tires from blowing off. I have seen the older yank's 3,500 with a 1.6str and seen people had decent gains with it. My car is mostly street driven, sees the track maybe 10 times a year and of course messing around on the street. I do have nitto drag radials and its sometimes hard to hook up. My 60's are 2.0-2.2 in cold weather(55* and less). I havent really tried the track in warmer weather so that could be why i spin so bad(yea i do heat them up, 10sec).
So in my case what str would you go with on a 3,500-3,800 stall. Any experience you have had, espically guys that changed converters in a similar situation as im in would be great....
So in my case what str would you go with on a 3,500-3,800 stall. Any experience you have had, espically guys that changed converters in a similar situation as im in would be great....
What do you have for gears? Are you going with an all new converter? Midwest does free restalls and they'll change your stator for about $175. They have out a new 2.66 stator but if you have 3.23s+ it wouldn't be ideal for hooking up on the street. If you have 2.73s or 3.23s I would stick with a 2.2-2.5str if you want to perform well at the track and on the street. I like my 2.5 str.
Those Nittos should hook fine. I lock my car in second and spin them at about 80mph for a good 5-8 seconds. I come out of the hole between 2,000-3,200rpm depending on track prep. The car has cut low 1.60s in 35* wheather.
i have the 3.23 gears, As for the midwest restall i thought about it and it wont be cost effective since my car would be down the time the converter was out which means rental car for how many days plus shipping so might as well get a new one than sell the old one. Was looking at a different company too... Like i said in my first post i do a 10sec burn out, hell one time i cooked them good cause i was pissed i wasnt hooking. Didnt do squat. I can say that in the summer the tires will dead hook with no burn out on the street. I havent tried the track in warmer weather but you said that you hook fine in 35* weather. The tire is 275/40/17 555r so i dont know what the hell is up with that and why i cant hook..
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 647
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From: Australia
Have you tried stalling it up to control and lessen TQ multiplication and roll off the line gradually pedalling into it? Sounds like either your car is not setup for your converter or other way around. Give Fuddle a call. They have attractive GPs on at the moment and it may be most cost effective to change the converter rather than suspension/tyres.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 308
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From: Rochester, NY
It could just be bad track prep. I was pulling better 60' times on street tires and with the stock converter. Try playing with different psi at the track and see if that helps. A lot of guys say they have good luck getting hot Nittos to hook at around 17-20 psi at the track. But if that isn't working for you then maybe try a little lower.
Good Luck
Good Luck
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 647
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From: Australia
I would recomend a 3500/2.35STR as posted in another thread. You dont want mind-blowing torque multiplication when you need to drive it on the street and use only drag radials at the track. But you need some.
well what would you say than about the yank sy 3500 with 1.63 str. I have seen may guys in the past use that converter with good 60's (1.5-1.7) and will less of a hit on the tires i would just go and not sit there and spin..
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
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From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
Originally Posted by BubaGumpShrimp
well what would you say than about the yank sy 3500 with 1.63 str. I have seen may guys in the past use that converter with good 60's (1.5-1.7) and will less of a hit on the tires i would just go and not sit there and spin..
