obZidian

iTrader: (2)

hey, I cant seem to find anything on this. Well, i did find one earlier today but now i cant find it.

my question is basically, does a new conveter need to break in like a new motor would? I ask because my car sometimes dies when put into gear. No vacuum leaks, motor is running awseome!!! But it happens usually and im still putting the initial break in miles on the motor. From park into any gear and it drops in RPM and if i dont give it gas, it sometimes dies or it finds it way back.

i did read a thread about somethin glike this being normal with a new converter but i couldnt find it

Thanks

Edit: Also, is there a way to manually lock the converter while drivin or do i need to set that up through the pcm?

MNR-0

Its not the converter. You need to tune your idle to adjust for the less rotational mass that used to assist keeping the car turning. To do that you either increase your idle RPM by 50 or increase your IAC airflow vs IAT and IAC counts.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

You need to do the idle relearn procedure. This should help.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

That is exactly it! What size converter is it? This is especially true on 10" (275mm) or smaller converters.

2001NBMZ28

After my TC install I had low speed "idle hunting/intermitent stalling" at low speeds coming to a stop at lights and in parking lots changing gears - increasing the in gear idle about 150 RPM cured mine.

SteveC

I have a Yank 3000, coupled to 3.73:1 gears,and had to have the idle raised for the above stated reasons. Now when warm, my vehicle idles @ 700 RPM out of gear, 650 RPM in gear.

SteveC

02 wife

Just have the idle increased. I had the same problem after I had the Vig 2800 put in. It would stall backing out the driveway, and in low speed driving. After I had the idle increased about 100 rpm everythings fine.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

its a yank ss3600.....

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

could you please detail this procedure, i cant seem to find an acurate step by step...

thanks

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

thats exactly wats going on. But instead of it searching all the time, it usually just dies unless i give it some gas. But also it drops in rpm, searches and then settles. I does this for EVERY GEAR.

So if i had the desired idle in gear increased by 100-150 rpm, it should resolve this problem? If this is it, than im a bearded gnome!!!!! I only need a tune software to have it done...

besides this, is there anything else that might cause this....

Also, this is still in the beak-in time frame of the converter and motor, would this also cause any similar problems?

thanks ya'll, very helpful,
Angel

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

You do not need tuning. If idle relearn doesn't work, then you need to open the TB blade just a tiny bit by turning the idle set screw about a 1/2 turn . Reset the TPS sensor when you are done. For more info on doing this, look for a sticky thread in PCM entitled "Stop drilling those throttle bodies" or something similar.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

thanks....this might sound dumb, but where can i find the idle screw. on which side....?

ok, that was dumb...ahahha!!

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

right near where the cable attaches. It acts a bump stop

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

Oh, thanks.....I read throught he write up and it seems that i need a scanner. If i cant get one, how much should i go? you said about 1/2 turn, but i wasnt sure if, since people were installing the screw from the top, how much i should do this by from the top. I gues that i'll adjust it from the bottom until i get a scanner...

so wat do you guys think, will this method make my car idle smoother, with out stalling in when put into gear?

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Per the factory manual (follow to a tee)

"PCM Idle relearn Procedure"
Automatic Transmission

1. Turn OFF the ignition
2. Restore the PCM battery feed
3. Turn off the A/C controls
4. Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
5. Start the engine.
6. Allow the engine coolant temperature to reach 176F.
7. Shift the tranmission selector into the drive range.
8. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
9. Turn ON the A/C controls.
10. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
11. Shift the transmission selector into the park range.
12. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
13. Turn OFF the A/C controls.
14. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
15. Turn OFF the engine for 5 minutes.

The above procedure is assuming you have disconnected the PCM or battery so you need to disconnect the battery for at least 15 seconds before doing the above procedure. Some just disconnect the PCM fuse (or both). Either way will work. After completing step 15, drive the car with a combination of city and highway driving for at least one complete drive cycle which I believe is 18 minutes (between ignition ON and OFF). Since the PCM is adaptive this will help. Generally after 3 complete drive cycles the idle should be set. If not, you will have to slightly bump up the idle.
Hope this helps.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

hey, that helps alot....

I spent the whole morning since 9:00Am, just got back now!!!, driving her around and she feels ridiculously strong!!!!! I still havent given it WOT but on a few kickdowns, i was very surprised how quickly the car rose up in MPH.

As for the stalling, it seems th more i drive it the better. It is still a bit hard to have it not stall when i first start her up, but it seems like its trying instead of a dead drop.

I really appreciate your help folks, i'll let you all knwo how eveything turn out.

If anyone has any other suggestions, feel free, as this is a public forum, to chime in..

thanks