Strongest 4L60E
#2
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i can build a 4l60e that can hold up to 600RWHP all day long.Building them for More Performance.Need to have a good programmer though,cause that is just as important as the build.
#3
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We have had two C5s with our Level 5 4L65E in the 9s. One makes 750 rwhp runs 9.90s the other makes 800 rwhp and over 1000 rwtq and runs 9.50s. So we have a pretty well tested design.
#4
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But can they handle a street/highway racing 60 MPH WOT automatic downshift? I've been told that the automatics can't handle it even if they're built well. I've heard that a 3-1 or 2-1 automatic downshift is fine but that a WOT downshift to 2nd or 3rd will tear them up with only 600 rwhp, much less 800+. I'm not trying to doubt FLP's abilities, I'm just trying to clear up what I've been told.
#5
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the input drum will not handle that kind of power,aftermarket one which isn't alot better that stock is only rated to 700.Alot is on the driver...i have had cars only making 400rwhp break the input drum.Anything is possible.
#6
11 Second Club
Check out FLP or Rossler. Speed inc carries a Dr. Evil line that shouldn't be bad as well.
Edit: The WOT downshift to second gear is brutal on them.
Is the shift down to first gear really a lot less wear and tear? I could deal with that
Edit: The WOT downshift to second gear is brutal on them.
Is the shift down to first gear really a lot less wear and tear? I could deal with that
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#10
FormerVendor
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I tried to swing a deal with a board sponsor but I don't think it's happening.. I will be using my local tranny guy here, he made our 4L60E C5 go 9.25@155 and it never broke. I will need 3'rd gear clutches once a year at the worst, maybe every 2 years. Depends on the power level basically...
#11
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I'll be testing my FLP soon on my Super Stock set up.
High Comp Solid Roller by APE.
It's a manual valve body and held up to multiple high 10sec passes at 3350lbs last year with heads and cam. The car is lighter now but with a 5000 stall
If your street driving do NOT downshift.....it kills em.
I'll post results soon.
High Comp Solid Roller by APE.
It's a manual valve body and held up to multiple high 10sec passes at 3350lbs last year with heads and cam. The car is lighter now but with a 5000 stall
If your street driving do NOT downshift.....it kills em.
I'll post results soon.
#13
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so to clear this up, when you guys say dont downshift, you mean no WOT kickdowns.
So if i want to race i should manually drop the trans into 2nd and then shift accordingly?
is this right?
So if i want to race i should manually drop the trans into 2nd and then shift accordingly?
is this right?
#17
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If you have anything over stock power. I've toasted a trans in 1 night of testing on the highway. Maybe 4-6 downshifts at full blast. Had to drive home in 2nd gear. If you have to downshift do it manually and soft...get in to gear and the let it rip.
I have a manual valve body....safer that way.
I have a manual valve body....safer that way.
#18
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
They are saying it's not too bad so long as you land in first gear. Largely stock that usually means ~25 mph tops.
#19
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by 2000BlkCamaroSS
Thats if you have the GU5 code stating that you have 3.23 gears and an aluminum driveshaft. I have the GU2 with 2.73s and a steel driveshaft. My car can downshift into first at 43 mph. It all depends on which package your car came with.
And actually with 3.23's it can be coaxed into first up to ~28 mph now that i thnk about it. Little mods change that though, lol. I can hit it at maybe 35 now.
#20
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so, wot kickdowns are fine in 2nd but anything that kicksdown in to first at wot is not a good idea....
so am i getting this right because this is the first i have heard of this, how damaging is it to kickdown into 2nd at wot.
summed up, when racing from a low roll, 25-30mph, dropit manualy to avoid damage at wot into first. Anything else that doesnt hit first in wot is fine when on a kickdown.
Question, when i race i usually drop it into a specific gear and roll her out. right before the shift howeverr, i shift it into the next selection and the trans shifts on its own... Sometimes i will ride in second for a bit until the race is fully engaged and allow the motor to deaccelerate in that specific gear or whichever (except for d-o for obvious reasons)
is this fine or am i damaging the trans this way?
so am i getting this right because this is the first i have heard of this, how damaging is it to kickdown into 2nd at wot.
summed up, when racing from a low roll, 25-30mph, dropit manualy to avoid damage at wot into first. Anything else that doesnt hit first in wot is fine when on a kickdown.
Question, when i race i usually drop it into a specific gear and roll her out. right before the shift howeverr, i shift it into the next selection and the trans shifts on its own... Sometimes i will ride in second for a bit until the race is fully engaged and allow the motor to deaccelerate in that specific gear or whichever (except for d-o for obvious reasons)
is this fine or am i damaging the trans this way?