Originally Posted by nasty99WS6

you cant see how a 3000 verter is more streetable than a 4000?

Originally Posted by LS1 Sounds

On an LS1 with a computer controlled lockup converter? I don't see how a tight SS4000 is any less streetable.

Originally Posted by LS1 Sounds

Most people that buy a 2800-3200 stall wish they would have gone higher the first time around.
http://www.ls1sounds.com/my_car/SLP-...eak_in-car.wmv

-Chad

Originally Posted by Yank

Which converter should I choose for my application?

7. Typically, you want to choose a torque converter with a stall speed 500-700 rpms below the engine's torque peak. For example, an engine making peak torque at 4500 rpms, a 3800-4000 converter would give maximum ET. For a quick selector guide, press here. To see chassis dyno results of our different converters, press here.

In choosing your torque converter, understand that there is no one best converter for all situations. A converter that produces very good results at the track may have reduced drivability in town. Key factors are your planned usage, current and future modifications, and drivability. If your primary goal is increased performance at the track, you will want to select from the higher stall converters, 3500 rpm and up. For mostly street driving, you will want to select from the converters with a stall of 3500 rpm or less.

A higher stall converter will be "looser" than a stock converter. Looseness refers to the fact that the converter slips the engine into a higher rpm. The use of higher rpms helps provide greater torque during full throttle acceleration, but it also causes the engine to use higher rpms at part throttle too. Looseness can be demonstrated by comparing the typical in town rpms used by a stock converter and a performance converter. The table below demonstrates the range of looseness.

Stock 1600 1600 - 2000 part throttle rpm range

Thruster 2800 1800 - 2200 part throttle rpm range

SuperYank 3500 2000 - 2500 part throttle rpm range

Pro Thruster 4000/4400 2500 - 3000 part throttle rpm range

The stock converter requires the least amount of throttle input and will accelerate at lower rpms. The Thruster 2800 is nearly as tight as stock, requiring only slightly higher rpms. The SuperYank 3500 is looser. While under light throttle the car can be driven at below 2,000 rpms, most drivers will be using 2,000+ rpm until lock up. Once the converter locks up (typically 35 - 40 mph), the rpms will drop off to the exact same rpms as the stock unit. The 9" Thruster Pro is the loosest, but provides tremendous gains at the track. Note that the rpm range used in the above example was for a car with 3.23 gears. A car with 2.73s would use higher rpms, while 3.73s would require lower rpms.

Looseness is mostly a perception issue. Because the car uses higher rpms, the exhaust note is more pronounced. Cars with loud aftermarket exhausts will definitely notice the increase in exhaust volume, while cars with quiet systems will notice only a small change. Looseness can reduce the feeling of snappy part throttle acceleration. This sensation is primarily due to the fact that a larger throttle input is required. Most people adjust quickly to a looser converter. If you are unsure of whether looseness will be a concern, consider test driving a friend's car before buying a converter.

Originally Posted by LS1 Sounds

A little, yes... That hardly makes it unstreetable though. A 3000 stall requires a lot more pedal than a 1600rpm (stock) stall, yet 3000 is considered small by most. The Yank SS 4000 is reported to feel like most other vendors' 3000 stalls, but I have to admit that I haven't had a chance to drive one yet myself.

I wouldn't even think of getting a stall less than 3500rpm for my car, and I drove 30 miles to work one way in Washington D.C. area traffic. The Vig 3200 wouldn't even be in my car if I didn't buy it that way. It will be replaced with a Yank SS4000 after I finish some more mods. Most people that buy a 2800-3200 stall wish they would have gone higher the first time around. I'm a firm believer in buying the right part the first time around.

The best thing to do though is find somebody in your area that has a stalled A4 and see if they'll take you for a drive. Then there's no room for mistake. For reference, here is a video from inside my car with the Vig 3200 from a while back:

http://www.ls1sounds.com/my_car/SLP-...eak_in-car.wmv

-Chad

Originally Posted by B T

>>>>
Thanks for that little video LS1 Sounds.
I think it has really helped me make my decision on a stall speed/w 2:73's since I don't know anyone that has a higher stall than OEM to test drive.
The one you have looks a little too loose for me on just the street. stop go traffic.

Looks like I should stay right at or below the one your using now.
BTW, are you looking to sell the one in the car now after you get the new one?
If so let me know how much and PM me when you get your new one in and if I haven't already bought one I might still be in the market.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by LS1 Sounds

I wouldn't even think of getting a stall less than 3500rpm for my car, and I drove 30 miles to work one way in Washington D.C. area traffic. The Vig 3200 wouldn't even be in my car if I didn't buy it that way. It will be replaced with a Yank SS4000 after I finish some more mods. Most people that buy a 2800-3200 stall wish they would have gone higher the first time around. I'm a firm believer in buying the right part the first time around.
-Chad