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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 12:19 AM
  #21  
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I post questions sometimes like I am stupid, but I understand some things.

It is tough to explain.
This is taken right off the Yank website, so that I can eliminate arguement from others.


"What is the difference between "brake stall" and "flash stall"?

Flash stall is the maximum your engine's torque can stall a torque converter. In essence flash stall and full stall are nearly identical. If you had a transbrake, you could find full stall by putting your foot to the floor and reading your tach. For argument sake, let's say we're testing a 3500 stall Yank ST 3500. If you had a transbrake, you would see around 3500 rpms. If your motor was at idle and then you suddenly floored the throttle, you might see slightly more (maybe 100 rpm more) stall for a half second as the momentum of the motor's internals "flashed" the converter a small bit above its true stall rating.

Brake stall, on the other hand is a very subjective thing. For most, it's the highest stall you can achieve before your tires spin. This varies greatly based on many factors: Traction, gearing, brake clamping force, and engine torque. With a ST3500, I may only be able to get 2200rpm "brake stall" on the street with street tires...any higher rpm and the motor torque would overwhelm the tires. But if I was at the track with racing slicks on the starting line, I might be able to get 3200 brake stall before the motor torque overwhelmed the tires. See...brake stall is very subjective.

Yank rates their converters based on their intended application. A ST 3500 will stall 3500 rpms in a stock LS1. If you had a 422 and wanted a ST 3500, the converter you received would still stall 3500 because it would be built around the torque of a 422, not a stock displacement LS1. Yank checks the stall of their converters and their competitors by using either a trasmission dyno or a "tranny tricker" in the vehicle tested. With the tranny tricker, you can place the vehicle in 2nd or 3rd gear and stab the throttle to the floor...making it easy to read both flash stall and full stall. "
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 07:36 AM
  #22  
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I have a vigalante 4000, Its really not that bad in the city either if you put it in drive instead of OD I set mine to lock up in 3rd at around 25 mph..
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BAIN
Atleast someone get's it
After thinkin about it i guess you have a valid point.
After work last night i hooked up my Tech 2 to my car and hit the trans brake and it went to 5,285 rpm.
So i guess i daily drive a 5,300 stall!
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SUX2BU
Your right what do converter companies know about naming converters. we should just rename them after we get them in huh?
Stall speeds are based on stock engine output.. You start adding more power the stall speed goes up...
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Joel_SS
Stall speeds are based on stock engine output.. You start adding more power the stall speed goes up...


Kinda true, but not exactly. That is the easy way to explain it, but it is a little different.
Most companies make converters around mods.
When you call TCI, Yank, VIG, Midwest etc they ask what mods you have done for your car.
Lets say Yank had 4 customers all with a 224-230 duration cam avarage x power and torque. They build a converter as if the x power is the avarage power the groupe and call it a 3500 stall. On the 5 cars the closer you are to x power the more accurate the converter will be. Now you have bubba, who did Kooks instead of SLP's. Did the Fast 90/90 setup, and has a 230 duration cam.
He gets a off the shelf 3500 stall and its built the same as the other 224-230 duration camed cars.
His stall will probally be closer to 3700 as he has a little more power then the avarage car in the same groupe.
This is the reason Yank has a converter wizard.


See below.

http://www.converter.cc/wizard/wizard2.htm
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:22 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by CamaroSS
I love my 4000 stall form yank....driveability is now perfect since I got another tune on it...the first one made it stay in the wrong gear, or too long, etc. Now the car is in 3rd most of the time, and in 4th when it needs to be. Get of the gas and cruise see it drop to 2k or less. Cruising on the highway 2k or less. I think I actually get at or better gas mileage than I had wiht the stock converter...

how did you do that?
what did your tuners do?
i will see if tuners here can do it

i daily drive an SS4000 ~50 miles a day
and I CANT STAND IT ANY LONGER
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:26 PM
  #27  
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I daily drove my Formula with a Yank UT-4600, (even in the snow) with 3.23's.

It's all in what you get use to. Obivously that setup got better when I added 3.73's(12bolt)

By far the best street setup I've had with stock internals and the H/C is my TP-4200 / 3.73 combo. Just enough bite for the track, and tight enough to drive in city traffic.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:36 PM
  #28  
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From: Ft. Myers Fl
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Originally Posted by WILWAXU
I daily drove my Formula with a Yank UT-4600, (even in the snow) with 3.23's.

It's all in what you get use to. Obivously that setup got better when I added 3.73's(12bolt)

By far the best street setup I've had with stock internals and the H/C is my TP-4200 / 3.73 combo. Just enough bite for the track, and tight enough to drive in city traffic.


Damn impressive times NA for a H/C car.
Looks like you really shaved your raceweight down a little.
Thanks for the reply.
I think I am sticking with the 4200 for now.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 02:06 PM
  #29  
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i drive mine all the time with my pt 4600
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