Launching A4
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Wichita KS
I always power break it up to about 1500 or so, about as much as u can before spinning tires, and then take the foot off the brake and simultaneously go full throttle. Thats for at the track, otherwise on the street if you have traction probs, try quick hitting the throttle to about half or so and then slowly floor it it will slip some but still launch pretty hard. Thats what i do!
Nathan
Nathan
Now lets add another element. If i got some 315's in the back (hopefully GS-D3s), how would i go about launching without breaking my rear. Should i just ease into it?
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From: Wichita KS
2 factors involved there, how many miles on ur car? and What gears do you have in the back?
To find our what gears you have check the list of manufacturer's codes on the door, and see whether you have a code that says GU2 or GU5.
If it says GU2, then you have 2.73's and if it says GU5 you have 3.23's. It truly dosen't matter too much as long as the gears are stock, but I would guess that it is more wear and tear with the higher gear ratio. Aftermarket 3.73's and 4.10's paired with a 315 drag radial may not be a great idea.
The rears on these cars are the weak link, but with an auto they do last longer. I think you should be alright with the 315's and launching with a 1500 rpm brake-torque and then just flooring it. That would be how i would do it!
Nathan
To find our what gears you have check the list of manufacturer's codes on the door, and see whether you have a code that says GU2 or GU5.
If it says GU2, then you have 2.73's and if it says GU5 you have 3.23's. It truly dosen't matter too much as long as the gears are stock, but I would guess that it is more wear and tear with the higher gear ratio. Aftermarket 3.73's and 4.10's paired with a 315 drag radial may not be a great idea.
The rears on these cars are the weak link, but with an auto they do last longer. I think you should be alright with the 315's and launching with a 1500 rpm brake-torque and then just flooring it. That would be how i would do it!
Nathan
I checked before, i think i have 3.23 gears. the car is just past 70000 miles. I understand the powerbraking method is probably the way to go. What's the list of parts that will break if i rev it then drop in from neutral to drive on my 235s? I've done it before by accident because my car likes to take along time to shift out of reverse. I figure if the tires slip they are getting the worst of it.
Originally Posted by spy2520
What's the list of parts that will break if i rev it then drop in from neutral to drive on my 235s?
You won't have a transmission much longer if you ever do that again. That is quite possible the worst thing you can do to an automatic trans.
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From: The other, other, other A-Town, NM
Originally Posted by Camaro_SLP
You won't have a transmission much longer if you ever do that again. That is quite possible the worst thing you can do to an automatic trans.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by Camaro_SLP
You won't have a transmission much longer if you ever do that again. That is quite possible the worst thing you can do to an automatic trans.
..Which is why i've order a stage iv FLP.. 
.lol 
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From: the land where cars repeatedly hit my bumper when I'm in the store...
Originally Posted by spy2520
What's the list of parts that will break if i rev it then drop in from neutral to drive on my 235s?
===> brake, 1500, release brake, GO.
Here is an example of what has happened in the past. Keep in mind that this is not my daily ritual nor do i try to do it. It has happened once or twice since i got my car. I back my car up, then from a complete stop i shift into drive from reverse. I wait a second or two and begin to ease on the throttle, the car has yet to engage, i guess it just revs quick when not under load. So i am at ~2000RPM when it finally shifts into drive and provides me with a somewhat impressive peel out/launch without really smokin the tires. I have wondered what kind of shock the drivetrain would get when this happens. I haven' really paid it much attention and thought that since the tires spin that they are getting the real hit. I'm coming to realization now that while this may be the case for the rear, the transmission still has to take most of the jolt. Now if i have learned anything from this thread, i should be able to break this down to:
A. Launching at high RPMs can damage the rear depending on grip.
B. Neutral dropping at moderate to high RPMs can damage the trans independent of grip.
Am i right?
Just trying to learn about what can potentially **** my car up.
A. Launching at high RPMs can damage the rear depending on grip.
B. Neutral dropping at moderate to high RPMs can damage the trans independent of grip.
Am i right?
Just trying to learn about what can potentially **** my car up.
Never neutral drop, and if it takes you sitting there a second longer to get it to engage, take that second and save the money for a new tranny. Sounds like you might already need one, if not you might need some internals. If you think about, power is planted through a sequence. Even if the tires spin, that doesn't mean that they are taking the blow. The tranny is the first in line of putting the power to the ground. Imagine how much of the grunt it is having to sustaine everytime it's engaged with it even at 1500 rpms. If it takes the grunt and more of the grunt is lost through the other driveline parts, and still makes the tires spin, that might give you a little understanding about how bad that is for your tranny.
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From: buffalo,ny
I'll chime in and stress as well... Don't do neutral drops,the only time I did them was when I was 19, my cousin and I used to repo cars for banks.We used to do them all the time.It was fun because the cars weren't ours to ruin. 
I have a friend that loves to do neutral drops on every car he owns, in the past year he has owned 8 cars, every single one of them the transmission had been destroyed...
As for the reverse to drive thing, my car does that occasionally but its nothing more than a little shudder, no impressive burnout...
As for the reverse to drive thing, my car does that occasionally but its nothing more than a little shudder, no impressive burnout...
Your rearend should be fine for awhile, that is one advantage of A4's, one of my friends is running 11.2's (w 2.73's) on a stock rear, no girdle or anything, the car is capable of 10's but either loses it or bogs, there is also a pewter TA running 10's on a stock rear both w/more miles than yours
