transgo shiftkit install...need help
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
transgo shiftkit install...need help upon ATTEMPTED installation of a transgo shiftkit, i am encountering a problem. i have all of the valvebody mods done. i am having trouble with the band adjustment portion of the install. like...removing the parts from the tranny due to lack of space. anyone do this shiftkit themselves? i have an 00 z28. tried removing the tranny crossmember bolts and prying the back of the transmission over and down for more room, still to no avail. any advice would be appreciated. this shiftkit wasn't bad up to this point. thanks again.
i am hitting the passenger side floorboard when trying to remove the parts above the valvebody and pan, etc, on the passenger side.
i am hitting the passenger side floorboard when trying to remove the parts above the valvebody and pan, etc, on the passenger side.
Well in case you missed it.
i did, easy. Take the E clip off and remove the piston seperate from the apply pin.
Try harder it will come out, but if you're not familiar with it you're going to have real trouble putting it back in and getting the sealing rings set right.
First take the cover and retainer out, grab the o ring with some needle nose pliers and rip it out through the notch at the bottom of the trans. This way the cover will pull right out.
Remove the fourth servo piston. Then take the e clip off, the spring and washer.
push the pin in and pull the second servo out past the trans case, let it lean down, pull the pin out more, something like that , I forgot but it barely comes out.
Or you can drop the trans crossmember and let the trans down a bit.
I think you can remove a heat shield too.
who here has installed a shift kit into their LS1 F-body? me and a friend are doing it but we cant get the piece on the side to come out so we can change the springs. anyone else do it themselves and what did you do to get to that side piece...
we tried but couldnt quite get it to come out....
First take the cover and retainer out, grab the o ring with some needle nose pliers and rip it out through the notch at the bottom of the trans. This way the cover will pull right out.
Remove the fourth servo piston. Then take the e clip off, the spring and washer.
push the pin in and pull the second servo out past the trans case, let it lean down, pull the pin out more, something like that , I forgot but it barely comes out.
Or you can drop the trans crossmember and let the trans down a bit.
I think you can remove a heat shield too.
i dropped the cross member and let the trans hang down some, then i used a 2x4 to hold the trans away from the tunnel some. you'll have to take out one piece at a time from the servo on the side. it's a pita... definately the toughest part of the swap.
you'll love the shift kit.
you'll love the shift kit.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
that's good to hear that i'll love it. the valvebody portion was easy, even removal and assembly. i will be getting a 3500+ stall soon, so i went with the full race / high stall combo. this won't be too much on the tranny before the stall, will it? 373s are going in REAL soon, i just got my shims today and will be making an appt. after i get the shift kit completely done.
i will be getting a 3500+ stall soon, so i went with the full race / high stall combo. this won't be too much on the tranny before the stall, will it?
ProBuilt advised me to go much bigger on the holes and even with a stock converter it's not harsh.
I ran into the same problem last weekend. "i did, easy. Take the E clip off and remove the piston seperate from the apply pin." This is how I had to do it as well. It still didn't come easy but I didn't move my tranny at all, I just had to bend the heat shield a little to get it to sqeeze out and it still just barely made it. That was the only complication I had with the whole install, not too bad. I used 2 washers and I have a large stall. The shifts are now just perfect, firm but not neck snapping. Before the kit I could not even feel the shifts. Now at light throttle I can feel them just a little and they are nice and quick. At full throttle first gear slams into 2nd but does not break the tires loose. Tell us what you think of 3 washers on the stock converter. I bet they must be pretty nasty.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
yes, we finished the install earlier tonight. 1-2 shift is f'n wicked. anything over 2,300 rpm, regardless of the degree of acceleration (under easy accel. or hard accel.) it will bark the tires. 2-3 is very crisp, but no traction loss, as is 3-OD. yeah, i took off the e-clip and pulled everything off back to the 2nd piston, which wouldn't come. we had to remove the whole assembly from there back, while it was on the shaft. somehow the shaft got a burred edge around it, not allowing anything from the 2nd piston back, to slide off. so we dropped the trans mount and hooked a wratched strap to the tailshaft and one on the el camino parked next to the car in the garage, and pulled the tranny over enough to slide the whole assembly off. i took pics of it 
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Glad to hear you got it finished. Its a good thing I didn't run into that kind of trouble because I was doing it in my driveway with no help. Once you install your torque converter I'm sure your part throttle shifts will tone down a little. Time for you to change your sig, no looking back now, lol.
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Verdad Gallardo I have the trans go with a 3500 stall and 3.73s. Its nice to drive, not bad at all...I want to step up to a 4000 stall soon though.
With headers, 224 cam, 3500 stall, untuned on Nitto DRs it went 12.22 @ 111. I think thats decent for a full weight car with mild mods. You will be amazed at what a stall does to your car. Go big
With headers, 224 cam, 3500 stall, untuned on Nitto DRs it went 12.22 @ 111. I think thats decent for a full weight car with mild mods. You will be amazed at what a stall does to your car. Go big