What does a 3800 stall feel like?
#1
What does a 3800 stall feel like?
Hey guys. i am looking into getting a stall (3800 from whats ive heard so far). I am jsut curious what it will feel like. When you say loose, what exactly does that mean? I understand it will take a lot more RPMs to get moving. So when its in Drive, will it feel like i have the selector in 2nd gear? Thanks. all help is appreciated considering i have noone around me with a stalled car. Thanks. Any sort of comparison would be great.
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#2
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the overall feeling of the stall can be different depending on the rear end gearing ratio. i have 2.73's and I can get the car to slowly speed up from a stop at 1500 rpm's, but i'll have to give it at least 2200 to keep up with the traffic pace. the term "looseness" is different from person to person, but looseness is the overall pedal to acceleration feel that is inherent with the extra rpm's. looseness will make the converter feel like it's not hitting as hard but that can be compensated for with a higher STR ratio (some say the higher str ratio helps with around town driving)
it really isnt so bad to have a loose stall, unless you have very loud exhaust and then you may have other problems with local law enforcement.
many people say alot of the stall's affects can be tuned out and make it drive even more like stock. I had no tune with my 3800 and now I'm a firm believer that it's needed for ultimate driveability. FOr what it's worth, i lost 0.65 tenths at the track with my 3800 stall UNTUNED, stock shift points, rev limiter, everything.
whatever you decide, dont go below a 3500 stall speed
it really isnt so bad to have a loose stall, unless you have very loud exhaust and then you may have other problems with local law enforcement.
many people say alot of the stall's affects can be tuned out and make it drive even more like stock. I had no tune with my 3800 and now I'm a firm believer that it's needed for ultimate driveability. FOr what it's worth, i lost 0.65 tenths at the track with my 3800 stall UNTUNED, stock shift points, rev limiter, everything.
whatever you decide, dont go below a 3500 stall speed
#3
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^^^What he said. ^^^
My 4000 stall converter can be driven on smaller roads without ever going above 2k rpm...not that I do that much once it's warmed up.
Old rule of thumb, go one size higher than you think you want. For you I'd recommend a 4000 stall.
My 4000 stall converter can be driven on smaller roads without ever going above 2k rpm...not that I do that much once it's warmed up.
Old rule of thumb, go one size higher than you think you want. For you I'd recommend a 4000 stall.
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Like warm apple p... wait, wrong thread.
All looseness is, is the amount of pedal you had to give it to get it going. Your RPMs will be higher, but thats beside the point. If you have a loud exhaust those extra RPMs will be more noticable, but with stock headers any kind of half-loud catback you wont notice the extra RPMs too much. If you didnt look at the tach at all, the biggest difference you'd feel would be pedal. Stock converter, as soon as you touch the pedal your off. With a bigger stall, you may have to give it 15% pedal before you're rolling even with traffic and 25% pedal to pull away. At first this seems weird but you get used to it quick, especially if you dont keep your eye on the tach. I find stalled cars MUCH easier to drive in day-to-day life because the gas isn't like an on-off switch with the stock converter. You can slowly get into the gas and control how much the car moves. Less gas, less acceleration, more gas, more acceleration. Especially helpful in bad weather. I had the worst time with the stock stall in the rain and after a stall the car was much easier to drive in the rain and snow.
All looseness is, is the amount of pedal you had to give it to get it going. Your RPMs will be higher, but thats beside the point. If you have a loud exhaust those extra RPMs will be more noticable, but with stock headers any kind of half-loud catback you wont notice the extra RPMs too much. If you didnt look at the tach at all, the biggest difference you'd feel would be pedal. Stock converter, as soon as you touch the pedal your off. With a bigger stall, you may have to give it 15% pedal before you're rolling even with traffic and 25% pedal to pull away. At first this seems weird but you get used to it quick, especially if you dont keep your eye on the tach. I find stalled cars MUCH easier to drive in day-to-day life because the gas isn't like an on-off switch with the stock converter. You can slowly get into the gas and control how much the car moves. Less gas, less acceleration, more gas, more acceleration. Especially helpful in bad weather. I had the worst time with the stock stall in the rain and after a stall the car was much easier to drive in the rain and snow.
#5
Hello, ok thanks. Well i was thinking of a 3600 so i decided to go with a 3800. I think im going to order a 3800 with 2.5 dtr from fuddle. Sound good? Im also going to get the shift kit so i can get as much neck snapping shifts without worrying bout problems.
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Awesome, guys. This thread has convinced me that I do indeed want a stall. I'm thinking of a custom TCI 3200 2.5 or just a regular TCI 3500 2.5 with a TransGo shift kit and 24,000 cooler.
I just want to have that awesome SOTP pull and be able to just blow the tires off at will. I'll do a good all-American burnout on the 4th of July.
I just want to have that awesome SOTP pull and be able to just blow the tires off at will. I'll do a good all-American burnout on the 4th of July.
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Originally Posted by Scotty-Z
Awesome, guys. This thread has convinced me that I do indeed want a stall. I'm thinking of a custom TCI 3200 2.5 or just a regular TCI 3500 2.5 with a TransGo shift kit and 24,000 cooler.
I just want to have that awesome SOTP pull and be able to just blow the tires off at will. I'll do a good all-American burnout on the 4th of July.
I just want to have that awesome SOTP pull and be able to just blow the tires off at will. I'll do a good all-American burnout on the 4th of July.
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my 3500 is looser than a 25 cent hookers poon-tang with moderate driving but whenever I get pissy about the high RPM pulls just to get to 45 I smack the go-go pedal and I'm reminded of why I got it in the first place.
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Originally Posted by Scotty-Z
Should I talk to Kevin at TCI directly or order through some place like LS1Speed?
#11
Originally Posted by josh99ta
Any authorized dealers should take care of you. You can also order directly through TCI. Personally I try to cut the middle man out but I got my converter on sale and it was a shop sale, not through TCI, so I couldn't go direct. Out of the two, if you are worried about looseness, if you have 2.73 gears the 3200 would be nice, 3.23s and get the 3500. This is if you're VERY worried about looseness. If you can tolerate a loud exhaust you can certainly tolerate a 3500 stall, so it gets my vote. It really does make a difference and you really dont notice it that much after you get used to giving it more pedal and you take your eyes off the tach. Its also not a hard job to do yourself if you're halfway mechanically inclined so there is money to be saved there also.
#13
ok well i think i got my decision final. i have the 3.23's so im thinking fuddle 3800 2.5 str. How does this STR sound and what does it mean?
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#14
Str i believe is the Stall rating, Not 100% on that one, but it is how hard it will hit I believe, You will have somebody chime in here in a bit to tell you if im right or wrong!!
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From what I have read the str is the ratio of torque at the stall rpm. for instance if you have an engine that makes 300lb/ft of torque at 3600rpm and have a 3600 stall with a 2.5 str it would feel like you were putting 750ft/lbs of torque to the ground.
From Fuddle racing website;
From Fuddle racing website;
STR is an acronym meaning Stall Torque Ratio Basically STR is torque multiplication. If a car has a higher STR, it will feel tighter on the street because the converter is multiplying the input torque by a higher number. It will also give a harder punch out of the hole. As STR increases, the car requires a stickier tire. Without a tire that can handle a high STR, traction problems can get out of control.
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Originally Posted by josh99ta
Out of the two, if you are worried about looseness, if you have 2.73 gears the 3200 would be nice, 3.23s and get the 3500. This is if you're VERY worried about looseness. If you can tolerate a loud exhaust you can certainly tolerate a 3500 stall, so it gets my vote.
Maybe I'll just start with the 3200. I dunno. I'll do some more research.
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Originally Posted by Scotty-Z
Yes, unfortunately, I have the weakly 2.73s. I'd like the 3500 I think, but I don't want it to be too loose, seeing as it's my daily driver. And it's not like I can afford a gear swap at the same time to 3.42s or anything.
Maybe I'll just start with the 3200. I dunno. I'll do some more research.
Maybe I'll just start with the 3200. I dunno. I'll do some more research.
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I also have the 2.73s. It's not too bad just requires more throttle to get her moving. I have a 2.55 STR on this converter and yes she hits very hard. I get no traction anymore with these street tires from a stop or slight roll. My 60' went down to a 2.49 from my best of 2.017 so that tells the story there.
When you get the converter installed make sure you get your tranny tuned as well. I have no rev limiter problems and the tranny tune was just $125. I'm getting my nittos at the beginning of next month so we shall see how those tires hold up.
On a side note, the Loudmouth is really loud now especially in tunnels.
When you get the converter installed make sure you get your tranny tuned as well. I have no rev limiter problems and the tranny tune was just $125. I'm getting my nittos at the beginning of next month so we shall see how those tires hold up.
On a side note, the Loudmouth is really loud now especially in tunnels.