Got a Vig 3600 what about YANK??
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8 Sec Tuner
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From: Wish I was in a boat fishing...
Ok i have a Vigilante 3600 stall but it really stalls about 4300. My stroker shifts at 6200 rpms.
I am about to add a 150 ho NX wet duel stage kit. With a window switch from like 3000 to 5500rpms or so.
So my question is if i went with a Super yank 3500 that actually stalls at 3500rpms. Would it make my car faster on motor than my Vig 3600?? Or is the more stall good? Because with the vig stall and n20 it wont be spraying very long in each gear. Plus its hard as hell to dyno this thing with that stall.
I am very knowlegeable when it comes to Lt1 power combos and especially the PCMs but stalls are my wweak spot. The vig i have now just feels so mush at like 1/2 - 3/4 throttle.
So help me out plus you guys seem like you work for yank! <img src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" border="0" alt="[hail]" />
I am about to add a 150 ho NX wet duel stage kit. With a window switch from like 3000 to 5500rpms or so.
So my question is if i went with a Super yank 3500 that actually stalls at 3500rpms. Would it make my car faster on motor than my Vig 3600?? Or is the more stall good? Because with the vig stall and n20 it wont be spraying very long in each gear. Plus its hard as hell to dyno this thing with that stall.
I am very knowlegeable when it comes to Lt1 power combos and especially the PCMs but stalls are my wweak spot. The vig i have now just feels so mush at like 1/2 - 3/4 throttle.
So help me out plus you guys seem like you work for yank! <img src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" border="0" alt="[hail]" />
more stall is better NA and N2O, but on the juice you need to worry about it flashing WAY higher off the line and with the shift extension you dont stay about your max window switch rpm (BTW, 5500 for the max seems low to me, especially for a built motor that shifts at 6200). now, a superyank will feel like **** compared to your vig3600 if you switch. if you really want to spray, stall down (free first time) to a 2800 or maybe even a 3200 (acutall is 3800 on this one and my shifts drop from 6000 to 4700, so the 2800 would be better for N2O and the 3200 would be a good trade off between the two)...or go with a N2O specific converter like the Pro Yank 3600 or 3400 (3600 for less N2O, 3400 for more).
hope that made sense.
Ryan
hope that made sense.
Ryan
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8 Sec Tuner
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From: Wish I was in a boat fishing...
I was thinking of turning on the N20 at like 3000 rpms then shuting it off at like 5500 rpms do u think i should turn off the gas at like 6000 rpms. that seems kinda close to my shift point and these 4l60e's dont like n20 and shifts in a 4200lb car!
I initially had the SY3500 in my '98 T/A right after the 383 was built. It's a GREAT street converter and definitely efficient, but it's not going to net the best time for you N/A. With the power you're making and considering the torque that you're making down low, I think a Vig 3200 would be excellent for your setup. It will be a nice compromise for N/A and nitrous, and it will also feel tighter than your 3600 for daily driving. Mine is flashing right around 3,800 RPM. Do you have a dyno graph that you could post up, preferably with the converter locked? The Vig 3200 will allow you more room on nitrous, and it will still net very nice times N/A. I'm running the Vig 3200/3.73:1 combo in my SS, and my RPM's drop to 5,000 on the shifts. I also agree that 5,500 seems low for shift points on a built engine, but a dyno graph would give us a nice idea where the engine is making power. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> Yank does have nitrous-specific converters, but I don't know how they perform N/A. Patrick G will be able to tell you since he had one in his '00 WS-6.





